just bought a mx3....first car EVER!

mycarhatesme · Post by **mycarhatesme** » September 10th, 2005, 1:34 pm

todays the big day folks...im doing up my water pump and timing belt, i took apart my car yesterday, and now that my buddy has arrived, i can begin this sweet a-- job

i keep reading about people complainning about doing the water pump and timing belt......

me living in the country (listowel, ontario), there aitn s--- all to do, so this is gonna be friggin awesome..i cant wait...i hope my buddy knows what a torque is..cause i sure as hell dont lol....im hoping, there is a digital screen on the tool, and i can just punch in numbers.....

i can put toghter a computer/server in minutes...i wonder if i can do the same with the car.....

as for info....when my pal shows up, ill log in and show him what u posted and if he needs to ask more, ill let him type it up, cause otherwise it will sound like this.... "the bolt with 6 edges on it, is that my oil plug?"...and i seriously dont wanna be asking questions like that to you all. its like asking santa for a workshop elf for christmas..how dumb would that be....my god...i just re-red all that, and im a foolio. lol.

thanks for all the help anyways though.....i wanna send you all presents or something.

mycarhatesme · Post by **mycarhatesme** » September 10th, 2005, 5:27 pm

i give up. the end.

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » September 11th, 2005, 1:09 pm

please mark the cam position... I bent my valves a few years back when I did the water pump in the bp.

ccreech · Post by **ccreech** » September 12th, 2005, 9:50 am

ccreech wrote:116 - 122 ft-lb for the crank cog to the block. To hold the crank pully to the cog it says 9.1 - 12.6 ft-lb.
The idler pully for the belt tensioner is 14 - 18 ft-lb.
The watter pump pully and all the timing cover bolts shoud be at 70 - 90 IN-lb.
This is from the 1993 Shop Manual for a SOHC RS. What else does he need?

i hope my buddy knows what a torque is..cause i sure as hell dont lol....im hoping, there is a digital screen on the tool, and i can just punch in numbers.....

Touque is a unit of measure for twisting force. Basically how tight you are tightening your nuts and bolts. Torque specs usually have 2 numbers. You start at the lower number and work your way upto the higher number. (Some people just do the lower number then the higher number, but most people work upto the max torque with a few steps. This is most important on things like valve covers with bolts that are easy to break and since it has a large surface that needs to be sealed evenly.)
Most Torque wrenches look something like this:

They have values running up and down the shaft and the handle screws up or down the shaft to set the tool at those values. (That sounded very sexual.) Then, when you are tightening a bolt, the wrech will click to let you know when you have reached the desired torque. The final step includes puting the wrench between your legs and galluping around the garage Happy Gilmore style.

atlantamx3 · Post by **atlantamx3** » September 12th, 2005, 10:08 am

hgallegos915 wrote:please mark the cam position... I bent my valves a few years back when I did the water pump in the bp.

Thats a real trick considering the BP is a NON-INTERFERENCE motor.

mycarhatesme · Post by **mycarhatesme** » September 12th, 2005, 12:43 pm

so ya. things didnt go so well for me. lol....suprise suprise...

first, my car stopped leaking the rad fluid. i dunno why.
second, now my car is holding pressure, cause my temperature guage is working again
third, then today, my temperature guage was wacked out again.
fourth, i didnt replace my water pump or timing belt, cause my buddy was like, mazda and honda are way too different, and he only knows his honda.

i tell ya. now im about to start calling around to see how much this job is gonna cost me. im not too pleased. why doesnt mazda offer any information about how to fix stuff. im starting to look at my mazda like its a 9 ball. it was made by yellows for rich white guys. my cars new name is 9ball.

thanks for all the support u guys were giving me, im still going to keep leraning about cars (mx3) while i have it. im just not cut out (dont have money) for tools and what not to do this job myself.

blah.

ccreech · Post by **ccreech** » September 12th, 2005, 3:32 pm

You can do it! Home Depot can help! I mean Mx-3.com can help.

mycarhatesme · Post by **mycarhatesme** » September 12th, 2005, 3:42 pm

no where on mx-3.com does it tell me step by step how to replace my timing belt and water pump for my 92 mx3 RS 1.6 sohc.....making the site GREAT for anyone that already knows what in the fudge is going on.

anyways, i found all the specs on my car, and i wanna post them for everyone. ill make a new thread with a better title for easy searching.

ccreech · Post by **ccreech** » September 12th, 2005, 4:27 pm

This is probably how A Haynes manual would tell you to do it. Remove belts and pullys, remove timing cover, remove tensioner, remove timing belt, remove water pump, install is reverse of removal. They are not all that detailed but some of them have handy pictures that can help.

It really is almost that easy though. You just have to make sure that your motor is all lined up so that you don't mess up the timing. This is kinda what hgallegos915 was saying but like Perry said, I don't think that pistons stroke deep enough (hehe...that's what she said) to interfere with the valves.

By the way, Where are you from?

mycarhatesme · Post by **mycarhatesme** » September 13th, 2005, 1:15 am

listowel, ontario.

happyclown · Post by **happyclown** » September 13th, 2005, 10:34 am

You say you can put a computer/server together in minutes, while i know that was exadurated a bit that shows that your rather smart. Think of replacing the water pump in your car like replacing a blown cpu on a computer. Im sure you could swap out a cpu with your eyes closed. You dont even have to think hard about getting the correct pin alignment in the zif socket or applying the right amount of thermal paste, or ligning up the stepping on the heatsink, cause you know how it all goes together.

You should be about to replace a water pump! it should be well within your capeabilities (sp), it will just take longer because its bigger, and you dont already know all the tricks of the trade. You can rent all the tools you need, and if your patient enough and take your time to understand how it all works you will be able to get that thing in no problem (maybe a little trouble but thats not the point). It may take you 3 days to do it your first time, but once you do this one job i bet you'll feel ready to take on a bp swap.

Mazda_Power · Post by **Mazda_Power** » September 13th, 2005, 6:11 pm

Yeah you are talking like you are high.

The appearance of a short shifter shouldn't be the only reason to buy one. Trust me and buy a B&M or other name brand shifter. I bought a cheap short shifter and now it's much more knotchy, not much shorter either!

mycarhatesme · Post by **mycarhatesme** » September 13th, 2005, 6:34 pm

im just frustrated.

mycarhatesme · Post by **mycarhatesme** » September 15th, 2005, 4:56 pm

so i fixed my coolant pressure issue somewhat.....i decided today since im bored, i should try to at least fix one thing on my car for cheap...so i thought about ALLLL the problems im having, my cooling system is just fucked, all the way around....so i started with a new rad cap. lol. funny enough, my car is actually holding pressure now. it seems to drive a bit better....is that normal when replacing a rad cap?

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » September 15th, 2005, 5:02 pm

Actually it can help.. radiator caps are rated to function at a certain pressure level.. if your cap isnt releasing pressure at the appropriate time.. it can cause overheating.. But if your waterpump is leaking.. its definately not a long term fix.

Tunes67