MX-3.com

I really enjoy this thread. Its all the simple messed up things you can do to your car on a budget and it still works. Love it!

Thanks, SCHIMMLE!

I finally got the Fiberglass hatch on with the Markolon "glass".
I thought I measured, and cut it just right, but I didn't. It seemed to fit, so I put the bead of Butyl on, and went to stick it, it didn't fit! It was just a bit wide on one part, so I cut it with a box cutter. I broke the blade 3X, and cut into the FG as many times I finally got it right:



Now, look at the sideskirt. Can you see anything? It's a cell pic, so probably not. I recessed the exhaust so it pokes out like a NASCAR YEEEHAAAWW! It looks tiny, but it is 2½".



I put in a regular sized Cat, and it passed emissions with half the junk. Also, it is more quiet, just South of tolerable before, it was less tolerable. When I finish my sound deadening, it will be alright.

awesome! are you going to put the hatch garnish on or just leave it as is? are you also putting in the little rear window?

Yeah. I ran out of time. I drilled out the holes next to the outside ones, because I only have 2 of the fasteners. I have to cut a bigger hole in the bottom inside piece, so that I can get the nuts on, and get more fasteners. I will put in the small window temporarily until I can cut the window hole bigger. Without the brake light, visibility is great! In Oregon, we don't need a 3rd brake light, but I have some LEDs I'm going to use that won't obstruct the window..

You should post some pics of the inside increased visibility! I'm curious!

NO.




Just kidding.
It looks the same as the pics earlier in the thread, but I haven't cut the corners yet.





Also, I got an Unorthodox Racing UDP in the mail just now. Thanks, 2Fazed!
This thing is tiny!



I don't know why, but I expected it to be bigger. I suppose it's from building V8 engines. The UDP for them are 2X this size. I'm curling my hand on it. It actually fits in the palm of my hand, and weighs about 2 pounds.
I've done alot of research on these, and determined that this brand is fine. Most of the highest powered N/A KLs have them, and I don't use accessories much, or spend time idling.
I can't wait to put it on with the light flywheel, and light cam pulleys! Once I dial the MS in for them, it should rev like a Motorcycle

I've been thinking about something; How can I keep the RPMs up between shifts, and also have a low idle? I don't want to have to heel-toe every time I shift.

Today I finally found a bolt at a hardware store to plug the extra O2 bung, instead of the hose clamped beer bottle cap
Also, I tightened down my rear strut bar, after the rear felt a little losse, when I was going too fast to mention here. I worked a little more on the hatch fitment, and road tuning, too.
I was on a long drive, and was womdering if I had high end torque, so I hit the gas when I was going steadily at 80, and it threw my head back! I wasn't expecting it. I tried it at 90, and the same result
I tightened my - battery terminal too. The other night I was hanging out with a couple of girls, and when it came time to go home, the alarm/ unlock didn't work. I manually unlocked it, and when I put in the key, the radio, and everything came on, but there wasn't enough power to start it. So, I tried to push start it a few times. After a block, I decided to investigate, starting at the battery. I found the loose terminal. Once I connected it securely, everything was fine. I got a good workout! I pushed it up to speed 4 times, jumped in, and put it in 2nd.
Last night, I stopped at a truck weigh station, and it registered 2750. I weigh about 180. I've got stuff in the car, and the current wheels weigh about 40 pounds more than OEM.

Pfttt. I was 180 when I was 12.

Jesse, to keep the RPM's up, you must shift faster!

Unless MS has an option to have a hanging idle or something..... IDK.

fowljesse wrote:Today I finally found a bolt at a hardware store to plug the extra O2 bung, instead of the hose clamped beer bottle cap

Lol you could have just asked. It's M18 x 1.5. I got some oil drain plugs that size, fits perfect and looks clean!

I SHOULDA asked! I just thought I could find it @ Home Depot, and the Goose chase started there.
Ryan, I can shift really fast, but don't want to all of the time. I can make it sound like an automatic

I learned something today; You can get a stronger spark by increasing the gap between the cap and rotor. IOf you try it, be very careful, since you can microfracture the metal inside the disty.

fowljesse wrote:...Once I dial the MS in for them, it should rev like a Motorcycle...

Do u want to die from something awful ? VIDEO TAPE IT or FACE MY WRATH !

Oh, I will! Trembiling before the Outlaw.
I will be putting in the cams/ pulleys soon, and refreshing the HLAs. When they're in, I'll make a video. It will be a little while before I do the tranny stuff. I'm still researching what gears will work. So far, it looks like I'll be going with the following:
97+ 2.0 SOHC lx/se Ford Escort.
3.31 1st
1.83 2nd
1.23 3rd
.91 4th
.717 5th
3.85 final
These will be taller all around.
Since I don't drag race much, I'm not concerned about the gears being further apart, causing me to fall out of the powerband at the beginning or end of each shift.
I need to determine whether mine is a 1st, or 2nd generation tranny, since the secondary shaft with the pinion gear on it is different lengths, between generations.
I have all the parts, except the gears themselves.

Tragedy has befallen the Fowljesse
Only minor, fortunately. I changed bumpers, because I modified mine to fit the Civic projectors. That went fine.
I forgot to pin down the Carbon Fiber hood. I would punch myself in the face, but I can't get a good swing on myself.
It actually looks fixable, for someone who is ambitious, and patient. It won't look great, but I was thinking about painting it, anyway. It is a tribute to EZ_4_FUN's craftsmanship that it is still intact. This was from the first bulk buy many years ago.

what all is the damage? to the hood? to the roof? to the front windshield?