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Only need a resonator is you're running a dual tip muffler

The cherry is a very long resonator... 26" body? I'm having just that component clamped in, so I can exchange it for other components, or just a replacement once it rots out.

Reminds me when I bolted two of those to the end of the headers on a Mustang... gawdamn you could hear it for miles... and lots of flames out the bottom of the car. I was ahead of my time, I invented under car lighting! lol

Anyways, love to see a vid of this thing sometime

Daninski wrote: Ha Ha. Ryan have you looked into the Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator or are you looking for more of a tough sound? I just find the resonance on the highway interferes with my music not having a good resonator. But then again I'm old right.

Ryan I actually spent a good 10 mins finding that video cuz buddy, your worth it.

You still need a resonator, dan? I'm surprised you can still hear!

Well, since the motor held up fine to the racing, I'm thinking about moving my attention elsewhere.

I need strut tops, a RL stab link, bushings, brakes (discs pads SS lines), body work, wider + taller tires (thinking 225 with spacers ), extended lug nuts to go with spacers....

We'll see what money allows... well, thats a lie, it allows $0, but we'll see how short sighted I am

So I want to design an engine oil priming system along with the cooling system.

For the priming system, I think it will be simple...

Draw from the pan to the pump, pump up to a proper check valve, and from the check valve (or 2 for safety) into the oil filter sandwich. This way the priming oil is filtered.

The cooling system will still be draw/return to pan, independent of oiling system.

I have a spare oil pan, so this can actually happen without having the car down.

I plan to use braided lines for the pressure side of the priming system, like turbo lines, and just rubber transmission rated lines for the low pressure sides and the cooling system.

My oil pressure at idle is next to 0, like most people. My idle is also pretty low... its 10-25 PSI at 1200 RPM, but almost 0 at 5-700 RPM. I have a brand new Mellings pump.

This is what a KLZE thinks about Cherrybomb's high temp finish:









Bought everything but the lines + clamps for the priming/cooling system.



Not bad for $50. 5/16 transmission line will be the hose. I'm not worried about the hose, because I slid a little section of hose onto a fitting, and I can't get it off, even without a clamp.

That big black thing is a check valve, so the pump can push into the oil system, but the oil system won't push back.


I am going to run the pump in two modes, automatic, where it uses the stock oil pressure switch as a ground and automatically turns itself off when the OPS sees pressure (will flick on/off lots) or manual ON, where I just have it on a toggle. Looking for a SPDT switch for this feature... fused 12v centre pin, one pin chassis ground other pin OPS (or relay using OPS as trigger ground, depends on draw).

The cooling pump will be strictly manual.


The only issues I'm forseeing is keeping the oil level in the pan constant. The check valve, and the internal check valve in the pump will keep the pressure system fine, (aside from whatever is in the hose between the pan and the pump, like 1/4 cup)

The cooling one will be interesting though. If the check in the pump is weak, thats a lot of fluid that can flow back, perhaps a litre or so.


I am going to tap the pan in such a way, that if one of these systems is to puke all the oil onto the ground, the level in the pan will not fall to an unreasonable level. (engine still draws oil when its off the stick).

I have a spare oil pan and pump, so I can measure exactly where the level sits in the pan, and weld the bung on accordingly.

Thats a really cool picture of the exhaust !!

Got sidetracked today and did a little mod I've been thinking about for months




Left to right,

power indicator (lost my switches, but once I find them this will be important )
neutral indicator
VRIS #1
VRIS #2

contemplated throwing in purge, IAC, FPR, and every other solenoid on the engine, but even I thought that was excessive... but I may do it just yet

So wait.... What do those lights do? And how did you make 'em?

lol I like the VRIS particularly! VRIS kicked in YO!

Kool beans! So they are like indicator lights for the vac system, so you can keep an eye on the little buggers. Beats the hell out of "the paper test"

I love the small cooler you got for the coil, and the LED idea is great!

Guess what!

Ryan gets to do ANOTHER rebuild!

Whoo!

compression is a solid 170 across the board (thats a lie, I was to depressed to check all of them, I only checked 2 and 6)

Leakdown only bumped the compression 5 PSI, so I'm actually unsure as to exactly the issue...

I seriously doubt valves can cause such a regular loss, I'd expect sporadic readings with buggered valves...

I think I just glazed the s--- out of the cylinder walls by running it lean as hell with a big vac leak for the first 5 minutes of run time.

Perhaps also a clearance issue.

Can you install oversize rings on standard size pistons?

I think maybe you're at the point where you should consider enlisting a professional engine builder's diagnosis.