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Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: July 30th, 2012, 12:36 pm
by Redline322
The most practical way I could think of for the duct work is to run it inside the inner fender then straight down behind the strut assembly, but I doubt you'd get much air flow unless you added a small fan to boost the air pressure.
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: July 30th, 2012, 5:27 pm
by kulluminati777
Redline322 wrote:The most practical way I could think of for the duct work is to run it inside the inner fender then straight down behind the strut assembly, but I doubt you'd get much air flow unless you added a small fan to boost the air pressure.
i was thinking straight through the wheel well

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 3rd, 2012, 2:51 pm
by 92StockMx3
Would the PCV valve from the K8 work for the ZE? If not whats the best replacement. Thanks!
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 3rd, 2012, 6:51 pm
by wytbishop
Yes it would. In fact they are the same. Like exactly the same.
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 24th, 2012, 2:25 pm
by kulluminati777
Is taking off the weather strip on top of the engine next to the wiper cowl beneficial? like does it let hot air escape a little or is this just a dumb ricer myth.....
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 24th, 2012, 2:30 pm
by wytbishop
Ricer myth if you ask me.
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 25th, 2012, 1:25 pm
by kulluminati777
wytbishop wrote:Ricer myth if you ask me.
oh man, it sounded legit
ok what is this thing?????
also how do you adjust the clutch pedal or is there even a way to do it. Its not so loose.......i have ALOT of freeplay, its been like that since i had the car and it has bugged me ever since

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 25th, 2012, 2:37 pm
by Redline322
That is the charcoal canister. The rod going from the clutch pedal into the clutch master is threaded, just loosen the lock nut and your can turn the rod to lengthen it, just make sure it isnt snug in there, it needs to have a very slight amount of play like 1-3mm. You can also adjust the bump stop on the clutch pedal as well. If that doesnt work, you might need to try to bleed the clutch slave to see if it helps or it could be just your clutch getting worn down.
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 26th, 2012, 2:41 am
by Evo_Spec
kulluminati777 wrote:also how do you adjust the clutch pedal or is there even a way to do it. Its not so loose.......i have ALOT of freeplay, its been like that since i had the car and it has bugged me ever since

http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... /H-006.gif
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 26th, 2012, 4:05 am
by kulluminati777
thanks for the speedy replies on my quick questions
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 29th, 2012, 5:10 pm
by wytbishop
The charcoal canister is connected through a series of valves between the fuel tank and the intake after the throttle body. The purge solenoid is controlled by the ECU to control how much evaporated fuel is released into the air/fuel mixture to be burned in the engine.
When the purge valve is closed the vented fumes have to be let into the atmosphere and the charcoal canister prevents it from stinking things up.
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 29th, 2012, 11:24 pm
by Sleeper6
kulluminati777 wrote:Is taking off the weather strip on top of the engine next to the wiper cowl beneficial? like does it let hot air escape a little or is this just a dumb ricer myth.....
Functions as a cheap cowl induction, I did it on mine and put washers under the hood at the hinges, now I can visibly see the hood flex at speeds and raise a bit in the back. Its not going to cause big changes but it definitely will increase air flow in the area. Same thing as old school hot rodders raking the hoods
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 30th, 2012, 1:26 am
by RS_OBD'oh_2
I don't think there is an easy answer here. Allowing air to pass through in one place will reduce it in another. It could be safe to assume that it will allow hot air to excape from under the hood, but at the same time, reduce the ammount of air that passes through the rad. Being as though water/coolant has a much higher heat transfer than just air, this could be vastly counter productive.
I am not a p.eng.. this is more of a guess.
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 30th, 2012, 10:07 am
by wytbishop
That's not really how "flow" works. They design the car and they figure out where they want the rad to be and then they do wind tunnel tests and they figure out if all this other crap is where it has to be and we put an opening right here how much air flow will be get over the rad?....ok so with that much air flow how large does the rad have to be to cool this beast?...and then they do that. It's all done experimentally based on how the car actually is.
Natural flow is really a function of pressure. Air will always naturally move from a high pressure area to a lower pressure area. To create flow you have to create a low pressure area where you want the air to go so it will flow there on it's own or compress the air and push it where you want it to go. As the front of the car moves through the air it compresses the air right in front of the car and the design of the car gives it a convenient escape route through the rad. The vast majority of the air that passes through the rad goes down below the car.
So if you lift the back edge of the hood or remove the weatherstripping to allow air to move out of the engine compartment it will reduce pressure in the engine space and will theoretically encourage more air to come in through the rad. So that's fine. You're not hurting anything.
I just don't think it will make a noticeable improvement. Someone should measure the difference.
Re: The "Quick Question" Thread
Posted: August 31st, 2012, 6:38 am
by kulluminati777