MX-3.com

kulluminati777 wrote:

Evo_Spec wrote:

kulluminati777 wrote:im betting the difference in flywheels would be on the V6's as well...

Yeah for sure there would be a difference but if your suggesting the clutch is for the V6, we thought about it but than quickly realized that it can't be because i believe the V6 G-series tranny has a 22 splines input shaft so that wouldn't fit the 20 splined friction plate

oh no i was just wondering if there would be a difference between a K8 DE or ZE when it came to flywheels

not sure why it took my so long to reply to this, but i'm pretty sure there isn't but don't quote me on that.

minor minor update

still haven't gotten the car registered and stuff so it's still not being driven and still haven't broken in the clutch.

update is more for this part that BP god MI|<E said is much better with boost so why not right?
Tavis picked it up for me since he was picking one up for himself, he said these are one of the last 2 in canada, anyone else will have to wait 2 weeks for them to come from the states. yay~~~


Here's the part number for anyone else looking to get one

so i guess i should post an update so people know what's going on.

i still haven't registered and insured the car so that means i haven't driven it and broken in the clutch yet...

but on an up note, i've done some things i've been meaning to get to for a long time.

so when i was doing the engine swap this blue/yellow wire popped apart but the engine still ran and everything so i shoved the wire back into the heat shrink and left it for 2 years LOL.
well i finally got to soldering it back together but does anyone know the wire is for? also i have no idea what the black/blue wire is for either


i did some major work here and swapped the old BP05 PCV valve out with the new MKIV supra PCV valve that Mi|<e recommended.




that's pretty much it that's left except things i just wanted to do like bleed out the brake system with new brake fluid.
i hope to have the car registered and insured by the end of this month, but so many things in life are getting in the way.... we'll see

That PCV looks so much nicer! I have been running a B6T PCV but this is so much better. hope you dont mind if i steal this idea

Josh wrote:That PCV looks so much nicer! I have been running a B6T PCV but this is so much better. hope you dont mind if i steal this idea

i actually stole the idea from mi|<e so i'd be a hypocrite if i said no XD

Another small update, i did an oil change on the BPT and got a grease gun and greased my ball joints, quite like the idea of being able to service them with new grease every oil change or so. I didn't take any pictures cause everyone knows what it looks like
Unfortunately it seems my battery will no longer hold a charge but one i get it registered and stuff i'll take a long drive and hopefully that'll restore the battery, if not i'll just buy a new one.

I plan to have to car insured and registered by the end of this week, pretty excited about that =)

Small update/setback

Apparently this is why the alignment shop recommended i get a new sway bar link lol
i'll probably replace that within the year, i'm not too worried about it since it doesn't affect alignment.

Evo_Spec wrote:ran into a bit of a snag when i took off the driver rear strut, the steel brake line broke and a lot of brake fluid leaked out and i had no extra brake fluid so i couldn't try to bleed the rear brake but the brakes still worked when i had the pedal to the floor so i drove it to the store like that (scary driving with crappy brakes) but unfortunately stores don't sell it pre-bent for our cars so i used some pliers and flare out the end, and well, it worked great, there's no leak, but i'll probably replace that in the near future, just don't have the time right now

so in case anyone was ever wondering about what happened with this brake line, well "near future" apparently ment almost 2 years later LOL

so this is the damage i caused, i think a full inch of the line broke off.


the one on the right is what the flare on the line is supposed to be like, vs the one on the left which i made lol
it didn't leak once though!!!




So in the process of doing this i ended up stripping the bleeder valve screw so i won't be registering and insure the car till i get the new bleeder and bleed it, but i did get the old stripped one out and hand tighten it to prevent dust and stuff from getting in so it won't be too much work to fix once i get the new bleeder.
I went to the Mazda and ordered 2 bleeders along with the rubber dust caps because the rear passenger one was really tight the last time me & tavis tried to bleed it so we left it alone so we didn't strip it but when i get the new one i'll just go ape s--- on it to get it out so i can bleed my whole system of the old brake fluid while i was there i also ordered a new key with the mazda logo on it so i could have an OEM key =P

While i was waiting for the lady to get a part number for the bleeder i noticed this for 10bux! the lady told me that they were actually losing money on those because the cost of them was $11.35 or something WIN!

Dam thats a swish bit of kit

so unfortunately the parts lady accidentally ordered the wrong bleeder screw so the new/correct one should be here tuesday.
Technically i don't even need the new bleeder because I was able to get a good enough grip on the stripped bleeder that i was still able to bleed the line that i replaced.
I did it in case i registered the MX before the new bleeder came in, cause i know i can't resist driving it =P

when i first went to get the bleeder she asked if i wanted the rubber cap and my instincts were to say yes to OEM mazda goods, luckily (well not really) i lost my old one so i have a replacement!
here is what a $5.26 rubber cap looks like. (and it's part number)


I also got this while i was there =)


The nice lady gave me a free mazda keychain!!! (for the inconvenience of getting the wrong bleeder? i dunno, i didn't care =) )
Also here's the old & new key, if you look close you can see a stress line near the top part of the old key, i was worried it might snap from that point which is why i stopped using it. (and yes, that old key is the original key from 1994 or earlier mazda =D )

gay....facebook must be moving pictures to a new server or something cause all my links to my images are dying and i don't wanna have to redo them all.....

so i think i'll be getting the car registered and everything tomorrow but i'm gonna double check everything mechanically to make sure i didn't miss anything that'll blow up my beloved BP-T lol

car is registered and insured =)

drove it around for about 30-45 min but the battery still didn't have enough juice to start the car so i'm gonna take it for a long drive tonight in hopes of restoring the battery.
if that doesn't work i'm gonna try and find the receipt for the battery since it has a 5 year warranty and it's only been 3 years so maybe i can get one free =D

no pictures cause it's not cleaned yet.

most autoparts stores will charge your battery for free. at least they do here in the states.

So i've been driving it around for the past couple days and it's been AWESOME, i missed the BP-T so much, boost is SWEET!!!!
but there's a boost leak so i'm only pushing 5 psi =/
i'll try to find the leak and fix it but what i really need is a new piping and a new intercooler, my current IC is mangled and my piping is ghetto at best.

I solved my battery issue was solved in a very strange/lucky way.
I took a look at the battery in the celica and saw it would fit the MX-3! so i swapped them out but what's weird is that the battery i had in the mx3 before was a battery from a 240SX which was slightly larger and actually sat on the lip of the battery tray and i figured it'd do the same in the celica but it turns out that the battery tray in the celica is actually larger and the battery fits perfect! it was like it was ment to happen.
i'm pretty sure the alternator in the celica is stronger than my mx3 so hopefully taking it for a drive will charge it better than the mx3 did, if not i'll just swap them around if i need to drive the celica (i'm keeping it for long distances because of my baby and my 2.5" exhaust XD)

so of course, like my other couple updates, i have no pictures, because everyone knows what a battery looks like.

JOKES!!! i have pictures, just not of batteries.

baby hook in action! and my gf cleaning my car =) (yes i know, i'm gonna get rid of that awful sub box sooner or later)


I also got my bleeders from Mazda yesterday and got around to putting them in today.

For anyone doing your bleeders, i highly recommend using a 5/16 wrench rather than an 8mm because it fits a bit tighter than the 8mm.
The bleeder on the passenger side that i mentioned in earlier posts was pretty bad and it did strip when i tried to get it off with a wrench, but apparently it's still easy to get out, all you have to do is get some vice grips and crank it on as tight as you can and then give it a good smack and it should come off.

rust is getting pretty bad all around the car.....

Like i've said before, i'm just gonna run this chassis till it falls apart then i'll be pulling the BP-T and stuff and probably getting another mx-3, but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.

as some of you may know, i bought a steering wheel and stuff off a member here and well it came in!
Sparco hub & NRG spacer


The MS horn button is real CF! it's so purdy


I bought the momo hub that was on my car off someone on the forums here in the past but he neglected to tell me that he didn't have the plastic/rubber shroud for it and that he modified the damn horn ring to work with some other mazda which was very upsetting because the whole reason i even bought another hub was because i wanted a working horn.
I got the hub for a decent price so i didn't care and just ripped off whatever horn garbage he ghetto rigged and installed it anyways because i had a shitty ebay hub before.

Sparco hub vs Momo hub (keep in mind the missing horn ring and NRG spacer on the sparco hub)


I guess the sparco hub must of had a short wire or something? because the person i bought it from had cut the wire and extended it but he never soldered the wires together and just taped over it so i corrected that and soldered the wire together and figured while i was there that i would solder the wire to the connector as well (i have OCD when it comes to connectors, i try to keep them to a minimum use straight wire and solder everything else i can't put a straight wire to)
I'm very impressed with the Sparco hub and the NRG spacer, they are both excellent quality products and have awesome strong finishes to them. The momo hub is shotty compared to the Sparco hub

All done!


I didn't take a full picture of the wheel because it's an ebay wheel XD (btw i did this at night, all that light is from JUST my dome lights XD)
I was looking into what wheel i might want to get and have decided to get the MOMO Jet steering wheel because it comes in 320mm but if i find a used 350mm for a good price i'll take that too as i don't care too much about size since i'll be able to see the gauges better with a bigger wheel, but i like the feel of the smaller wheel more so i'm hoping to get a 320mm wheel. Anyone have one for sale, or know someone with one for sale? =P


There is also a short shifter w/ bronzoil bushings and an NRG steering wheel with all the stuff i bought and i'll be taking pictures of the short shifter when i install that but i don't think i'll be installing the steering wheel as i'm really not a fan of the chrome on it but i had to buy it all as a package deal. I'll try to sell the wheel in kijiji, if it doesn't sell for the price i want i'll either post it up on here or sand & paint the chrome and use it, it's a good quality wheel but i HATE chrome lol

Looks awesome bud!! I knew you could get yours on the road before mine!! Haha

your rust doesn't look too bad. I the long run i think it would be cheaper to fix the rust instead of buying a new mx-3 swapping out everything and then having to fix the rust on that one eventually......