MX-3.com

The swaybar was about $160 shipped.
I'm not actually "running" on MS at the moment. I waited for a reply about using the rear O2 sensor, and now it's snowing again. My dainty fingers hate working in the cold, so when it warms up a bit, I'll get out there, and finish the wiring, and see if she runs
I'll have the largest intake ever; 6"

Here's my coned TB, done by hand with files





I'll do a better job when I have access to better tools

Here's my short shift knob on my short shifter:



It's ½ the overall length of OEM. I had to cut off the bottom white part that holds the boot on, so it would screw down far enough, but the knob is so low now that the boot stays in place by compression.
It barely moves when I shift; It's got like a 2" throw!

Jesse you should get a 95+ protege shifter. Its top heavy so shifting should be easier

I've always wondered about that. maybe I'll make one out of metal, and see what the extra weight feels like.
I'm still planning to make one out of burled walnut, and do the shift gate, and a bunch of other stuff out of it, too.

Jesse, any word on that package? Was that second one they coudn't find it? (if they found it)

I got the car running today on MegaSquirt and Spark. It idles a little weird, but maybe due to my IAC bypass It idles ALOT more smoothly than when I did the IAC bypass on the stock car.
Man, I've got ALOT to learn about tuning with this thing!
It pulls hard, maybe harder than I remember, but I haven't driven it in about a week, and have been driving the stock GS.
I'm going to take it to a place that does MS dyno tuning once I get an MSD 6A.
As I mentioned many pages ago, I'm going for 200WHP, 13 sec ¼ mile, and more than 35mpg. AND... all while passing emmissions for a stock GS.

Ambitious?
Yes.

Crazy?

Like a Fox

I got it idling great
Yesterday I put on the SRD repro stuff from Nd4SpdSe.
I didn't think to take pictures, so I took them today.
Front:


Rear, painted "stealth":


The car is solid! I'm ready for Autocross! The only thing I could upgrade now is to go with adjustable coilovers, but I will probably never be able to afford them, unless I can figure out how to make them myself, or convince a company to make them for us, and send me a set to test I had Whisper drive my car (he is an autocross, and track racer with good coilovers), and he said my setup is as good as a coilover setup, well balanced, dampened, etc.. And this was before the Whiteline swaybar with Wytbishop's endlinks, and now, the Aluminum stuff. I'm still going to find out what the best camber is, and make plates. Also, one day, we're going to get scales, and I'm going to corner balance my car using different thicknesses of camber plates.

I may or may not be selling my GC's in the springtime - even so, theyre only $400 new. I'm not going to make a decision on them until I get the new bushings in.

THAT is a lot of hard work. I'm highly impressed dude.
Do you have some wider shots of the whole vehicle and engine bay?
Also, when are you planning on painting the whole thing? I can't wait to see it done!

Thanks, koppit
I've pretty much screwed with everything. I'm waiting for it to stop raining so I can paint it. For now, my girlfriend draws on it with glow in the dark chalk, and I like it. It's fun to beat serious Ricers with a chalkboard car!
If you want to see a part of the car that isn't in the pics in this thread, I'd be proud to take one of it

I finally made a cover for the bottom front of my car. It seals from the front bumper to just past the crossmember. It covers most of the A-arms, and I just barely cut enough out for the wheels to turn, so the bottom surface is smoooth. I can hear the engine better, too.
The Ram air is done, too. pictures to come..

"did you ever know that you're my hero?"

Shucks. Thanks, man.

Here's the serious ram air:

So since the rear is adjustable... Does it make a big difference on tightening it up that much? I will change mine soon but I just like the look of it!
Also, any problems with idle on your bored throttle body you did? I was thinking the same thing by using a dremal....

The main difference I was going for with it being adjustable is being able to put tension on it, for a sort of corner balancing. I'm still playing with it. I'm hoping that if I make the driver's side longer, and the passenger side shorter, it would cancel the weight of the driver (which is alot ). Other benefits of solid endlinks is the instant response of the swaybar, and strength to hold up to what I'm going to do to them. For a showcar, they could be one of those subtle touches that make the difference. If you painted them to match your car, and chromed them, they would look great.
The only issue I have with the TB is that I can't get it to idle below about 900rpm. It idles smooth with MegaSquirt, but I don't know how well it would idle without being able to adjust the air/ fuel ratio. Also, I just have a narrowband O2 sensor for now, but when I get wideband, I may get it to idle lower.