Mi|<e - 94 GS BPT dyno tuned

[Mi|<E]

And my boost controller:

[Mi|<E]

Heres the updated mechanical to electronic speedo:





I really didnt want to convert my dash to a cable driven cluster, for a few reasons
but mainly due to all the electronic bits and boost line that have to make thier way
through here:

[Mi|<E]

Happy to report my speedo works this time around, no tranny problems and
the 626 5th gear is pretty nice at 2700ish rpms at 100kmph.


My tubular nightmare begins:

[Evo_Spec]

can't wait to see this thing done, you gotta give me a ride =D

[Mi|<E]

My ears are ringing from all the grinding/cutting today.

Made some holes for tubes:




Fitting mandrel intercooler pipes:






Lots of room inside to play with:




Oh looks like my measuring is good and I dont have to hack up the bumper
or bumper support:






These frame support brackets will need to be cut a little bit on the inside to
accomodate the intercooler piping:



Picked up my mufflers:
Dynomax super turbo and dynomax bullet resonator/muffler

[mx-3_4evr]

That is the cleanest intercooler set up that I have seen in an MX-3 in years!

[Mi|<E]

Tapped the pan properly:

[SteeleMX3]

It's nice to see another well done MX3 in Calgary
I'll show you mine if you show me yours...when she's done of course

[Mi|<E]

Ive been busy, havent posted much for updates in the last while, the car
will be tuned and finished by mid April. After that I'll decide if my pockets
allow for a new paint job.


I got some new door panels from a power window mx-3 so no more odd crank
holes:





For my boost and oil pressure gauges I think im going to mount them in the corners
of the dash. Boost with RPMs and oil pressure on the engine temp side. (Yes I know
its the boost gauge on the temp side just pretend its a matching oil pressure)





Downpipe is on:


My oil restrictor for the turbo finally came awhile back:
The idea behind this is the 0.063" opening limits oil pressure to 40 psi
to stop seals from blowing on colder starts/WOT. My oil pressure gets as high
as 80 psi when its first starting.


Heres my stainless braided coolant and oil feed lines. -6 AN for coolant and
-4AN size for oil feed. They are on my other BP build engine.



Heres the high temp silicon oil return line at a hefty -10AN size or 5/8 inch.


Which goes to here:



Also for coolant return I can make use of a pre existing hole where a useless
sensor is (the coolant temp):




Will update with final build pics and dyno sheet when it gets tuned. Also with
pics of how the gauges look when mounted in dash. Im not a big fan of A pillar
mounts is why - too distracting and takes away from the sleeperness my car
will have.

[SteeleMX3]

might be a bit of a "newb" question here Mike, but are you replacing your rubber lines with those braided ones??

[fowljesse]

Nice job! I'm enjoting following the build. Thanks for the details on the tranny!

[Finch]

The idle is DRL / Headlight related for sure. I unplugged the DRL unit and the idle is rock solid
when the lights are not on. I just need to figure out why and whether its a simple grounding
issue or if something has gotten water in it and rusted or just the EGR. There is no EGR on
the BP but I know it has something to do with it.

ok so i have this exact same problem, my temp fix was to just drive around with the e-brake pulled up 1 click. do you have a permanent fix for this? i tried looking for a fuse or relay i could take out for the running lights but didnt see anything.

[Mi|<E]

I cleaned up the grounds and added a DIY groundwire kit made of monster
cable I bought by the foot and some end loops to bolt to the frame. It has something
to do with the RS throttle body idle controller I bet. As soon as I changed to a
BP this never occurred again.

Here is the IAC on the RS B6 throttle body (manual tranny version):




Try unplugging this after your engine gets warm and set the idle to something
more acceptable as it will crater when unplugged. Drive it around and see if
you can duplicate the symptoms with it unplugged, if not then its your IAC
valve. This part is super expensive to replace so the best bet is to try parts
from your local junk yard.

I just checked my BP throttle bodies against the B6 and sadly they will not
interchange, totally different.

[Finch]

thanks alot Mike, i plan on swapping a BP-t into my RS in late june. I may just leave my idle problem alone considering how little time ill be using the RS motor now. Im very impressed with the amount of work you've put into your RS! She's gonna be a beast when she's done man! Great work, and thanks for the advice for my problem.

[Mi|<E]

Installed the RX-7 460cc injectors and the turbo lines this afternoon


Plug and play oval tops are so nice



Oil and coolant feeds/returns:



Here is a better picture of how the return works: