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Don't things like the ECU from the original K8 engine (assuming they are still all right) just transfer to the KL engine?

JeffB wrote:Don't things like the ECU from the original K8 engine (assuming they are still all right) just transfer to the KL engine?

You can safetly run the K8 ecu, but won't experience full potential of the KL until you get proper ecu and vaf setup. KL31 or KL36 ecu w/K8 JE50 vaf meter. You can also use your original K8 exhaust manifolds and y-pipe (no need for headers if on budget).

I take it the KL31 and KL36 ECUs are also JDM parts, not something I can pull off an old 626 or Millennia at the junkyard. I don't see them on eBay, either.
And once I have the right ECU to go with the KLZE, am I right in thinking it will require premium gas?

It is recommended you run on premium on the ZE, or you can dial your timing back a tad and probably be fine not running premium. I have a hard time believing a .5 increase in compression requires a much higher octane rating but may be wrong.
The KL36/31 comes up for sale now and then for 200-300 or you can have your ECU chipped by two different people I know of.

Seems to me that if replacing the chip on the K8 ECU will work pretty much as well as the KL31 or KL36, that's a much better choice. By all means pass along the contacts for your sources on chips that can do the trick. (I take it these are not the same as the chips I see advertised for $24.99 on eBay.)
And yes, I'd just as soon forgo premium gas if I can. I see that the KLDE engine took regular gas in the '93-'95 cars, then premium in '96 and '97. I guess it's a fine line.

Does anyone even chip the K8 ecu anymore? I don't believe stoker or probinator does. I know Michael Perry still does DE ecu's, but not the K8 ecu...

I guess I'll be picking up a DE ECU, then. And I'd be grateful for Michael Perry's contact info.

http://xtremethings.com/ If my memory serves me, in past phone conversations with Michael he led me to believe he had chipped a K8 ecu once for a friend, but not sure what the outcome. Honest guy with a wealth of knowledge. IMO if you go with a JDM engine, I would get a JDM ecu though for the sake of knowing what you're getting and that it will have the correct fuel and timing maps. I've heard positives and negatives with the eprom chipped ecu's.

Progress: I've sourced what looks to be a nice KL-ZE (compression test is at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRjBG4rfK6s), and they are throwing in a KL31 or KL36 ECU that they have lying around. The VAF I need is already on the MX-3, right?
But I am inclined to swap in the longer-geared 5-speed tranny as well. And I was going to pick one up from the junkyard not far from me, from a 626 V6. Trouble is, the only 626 V6 there with a manual tranny is from 1998 or later, after they stopped using the KL-DE engine. So here's my question: Will that transmission work, too, or do I have to source it from a 626 (or MX-6 or Probe GT) that had the KL-DE engine?
If this comes together, I'll be doing the swap this Sunday, when the temperature is supposed to be 56 instead of 16. So be prepared for more questions.
And I really, really appreciate the help.

That transmission is ideal. Get that.

You say, and I obey. I'll find one from '96 or '97.

sorry, let me clarify. The 98+ transmission is ideal. Get the 98+ 626 transmission, especially if you have several to choose from, you can pick the one with the least miles/best condition!

Anybody up for remote help on the ZE swap?
Got the car in my neighbor's driveway. (I don't have a driveway.) Got the beautiful ZE engine. Got the engine hoist and assorted tools.
I'm most of the way to removing the old engine. (The nut on the driver's side axle just doesn't want to move.) Got the next two days off.
But what I no longer have is the help of my neighbor's 22-year-old car-crazy son; he had to go back to college earlier than expected. So what I need is an experienced person on call to guide me, as needed, through my first-ever engine swap. And I'll admit that I have done very little car work of any sort.
Is anybody willing? The only enticements I can offer are baked goods, fine wine and my sincere gratitude.
I'm at 571-882-4224.

Where are you located? That would help.

You should be able to get away with the stuck axle, when the engine is prepped for being pulled(along with the trans) jack it up and remove the spindle from the strut and pull it outwards to dislodge the axle while pushing the transmission the other way. You'll have to install it the same way which isn't particularly fun but a stuck nut is a stuck nut.

A bigger breaker bar might help or a cheater bar over the breaker bar. I ended up buying a 5 ft 3/4" one to break the axles loose.

I'm in lovely and historic Arlington, Va. And I'm going to try serious leverage with a breaker bar in the morning; failing that, I guess, I can follow your suggestion about removing the spindle from the strut. But I do figure that simple is best for me.