Making a list for K8 To KLZE swap

[RX8SE3P]

Probe trans is the same as the mx3 trans but still a good price considering all you get with the engine!

[Daninski]

Use the fly wheel from the K8 as it's much lighter than the ZE FW. Install a good stage 1+ clutch and that's not an MX6 or Probe clutch cuz those ones will slip. Exedy makes a good clutch, others may chime in with there choice.
1. Bolt your EGR onto the ZE and connect the plug and viola no cel. I connected the water lines too because I'm basically lazy.
2. Yes 6" would be ok, I just didn't think women liked them that thin.

Finally, on your 96 you have two additional sensors lower down in the exhaust. They are O2 monitors and you don't need them hooked up. Your system will still go into closed loop. Oh and just for your information, the rear O2 monitor plug is the same as your fuel rail plug so watch out for that. Make sure you use the fuel rail plug on the fuel rail cuz the O2 monitor plug doesn't work for sh*t.

[libtechsplit]

well i got back with the motor a little later than i had hoped, but its mine... i'm a bit worried that it isnt a true ZE after re-reading this -

"The heads should read KL31-101 and/or KL31-1A1

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a389/ ... 31-101.jpg


keep in mind some Millena engines have these heads and intake manifold.
They do however lack the pistons and the cams of a KLZE engine.
The millenia KL will also have EGR."

There was an EGR on it... but the head stamp was right. I'll need to go look in the daylight tomorrow. It currently has an OBD2 manifold on it that looks like the one on the top left... i think.



anyway, it might not be the true badass ZE , but its still a motor that will get my car on the road, so i guess i dont care what the heck it is in the big picture.. as long as i can make it work...

Use the fly wheel from the K8 as it's much lighter than the ZE FW. Install a good stage 1+ clutch and that's not an MX6 or Probe clutch cuz those ones will slip. Exedy makes a good clutch, others may chime in with there choice. unfortunately clutch will have to wait since im already overbudget lol
1. Bolt your EGR onto the ZE and connect the plug and viola no cel. I connected the water lines too because I'm basically lazy.
2. Yes 6" would be ok, I just didn't think women liked them that thin. such is the cross that i bear, haha

Finally, on your 96 you have two additional sensors lower down in the exhaust. They are O2 monitors and you don't need them hooked up. Your system will still go into closed loop. hmm, no CEL from that either? then i can put my wideband in one of those holes - sweet.

Oh and just for your information, the rear O2 monitor plug is the same as your fuel rail plug so watch out for that. Make sure you use the fuel rail plug on the fuel rail cuz the O2 monitor plug doesn't work for sh*t. lol, good tip

well, it was a productive weekend, now i need to try and get some evenings in this week, but more likeliy all the action will be next saturday - unless i take a day off to work on it...

[libtechsplit]

this seems to contradict the info i quoted in the last post - can anyone definitively say which post is correct?

How to tell a KLZE from a KLDE:
KLZE will have:
-KL31 xxx marked on the heads
-KL01 or KL31 stamped on the camshafts [KL01 for ZE's from Millenias, and KL31 for ZE's from MX-6's]
-Square runners, either curved neck [Millenia] or long straight neck [MX-6] manifold. NOTE: MX-3's can only use the Millenia curved neck manifold, as the MX-6 manifold puts the TB where the master cylinder is.
-No EGR port on the rear exhaust manifold is definately a ZE, though some ZE's have come with EGR.
KLDE will have:
-KL xxx marked on the heads.
-KL01 cams
-round runners, short necked manifold

Both can have Ford OR Mazda valve covers. I've also seen a few KLZE's with KLDE intake manifolds on them. The main thing is going to be the head code. That's going to tell you what's inside.

[SuperK]

"proper" straight neck KL-ZE looks like this :





^^^ That Intake
KL31 Heads
KL31 Cams


If it has those three recipes then your chances of having the higher 10.1 compression pistons are pretty durned awesome.

[RX8SE3P]

Yep, I agree with SuperK. Some people on this site don't have a clue and are in KLDE denial when they get their engine.

A KLZE simply must have a straight neck intake with KL31 cams and KL31 heads. If the camshafts are KL01 it's a hybrid engine at best. People call the Millenia engines ZE's, which is retarded seeing as they make only a few HP more than a DE and many less than a ZE.

Either way though, a 2.5L engine is going to go strong for you!

[Daninski]

Since your new and probably don't know, this the whole subject of identifying KLZE's has been beaten to death. Use the Search feature here and you'll find a wealth of knowledge. There's also a way to tell when your engine was produced by the serial number on the block. Again either search here or Google and the answers will be at the touch of your figures.

Anyway the head codes will be KL31-101 and KL31-1A1 if not then it's probably a DE. Straight necks are more ap't to have the cams but regardless they both produce the same HP just at different rpms.

One thing usually not mentioned is new valve cover gaskets. If they start to leak on the car the back one (rh) is a bit of a pain to do so replace both gaskets using silicone on the appropriate transition points.

[libtechsplit]

sorry man im just right in the middle of it i sprung this project on myself without doing the proper amount of reading and now am having to ask some stuff that i should have known. this is day three and it looks like theres about 3 hrs of exhaust making and random button up to have it running tomorrow. Its at my mechanic friends place and he has limited parking, so stuff has to get done quick and be gone.

but in my defense, those two items are both in the FAQ, which does confuse a newb...

and i probably should have switched this over to a worklog at some point.

now for today...

the purchased motor is in the car with the k8 intake on it for speed of assembly. we used the fuel rail from the purchased motor and the knock sensor. otherwise we used everything from the k8 management wise. my friend will run it with the JE50 MAF? sensor (havent even looked in it haha) , because thats his way he does stuff, but i can try the KL02(?) soon enough. the transmission gave no problems and the trans plugs worked, probe jackshaft worked (it was what was on it) .


very likely i'll be listening to him rev the s--- out of it over the phone tomorrow morning around 11am, haha.

thanks again everyone, so far this has been nice and smooth because of your collected information sharing.

[ganue]

Start here:

http://mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... 3&start=19

[libtechsplit]

Start here:

http://mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... 3&start=19

sweet, looks like a good read -

my 2.5 is fully hooked and functioning great, eff yeah. its 2.5 longblock, with 1.8 intake, 1.8 mounts, 1.8 ecu and sensors, except for 2.5 knock sensor and kl02 VAF ( please someone tell me that that motherfucking bullet sticking out of it is what makes a VAF ...) . K8 exaust manifolds and Y pipe, with the probe magnaflow exhaust chopped and welded to fit - with the back cat getting kicked ....

havent done any actual driving tests - that will be tomorrow - but its running great right now cycling the fans at a really smooth idle, no codes. backing it out of the driveway was fun dealing with the super quick revs of the 2.5 with the lighter flywheel, and getting to know the hydro clutch. *wwwiiiing* drop, *wwwiiiing* drop... ive never driven this with a good working k8, it was blown up when i got it. (execpt for the final 10 km when the cam was killing itself with no oil pressure - it didnt rev so good then.)

but as of now with no testing, i love how it sounds.

Idle and tps seem ok so far but i havent gone out and ripped on it yet.

[libtechsplit]

well whatever it is, it pulls hard and i like it...

probe clutch slips, as i was warned by you all that it would... but it will live for a while.

first gear is almost irrelevant now, and it cruises at 3200rpm at 100kph... not so good for mileage i dont think. Hopefully i can line up some taller rims to battle the short gears.

[libtechsplit]

well im on my 3rd tank of gas now. first was 3/4 tank of 87 left over from the P.O. , after about 100km on the highway it threw a CEL while pulling a decent hill - i speculated that maybe it was seeing some knock, and filled it with 94. unfortunately my friends scanner wouldnt link up with the cars computer? it plugs in fine but just errors out when i press link. Anyone else have this problem? i'd prefer to not get butt fondled at the dealership just to have a code cleared...

so still dont know what the code is, but car continues to run fine although its a bit thirsty when you put your foot into it too much, haha.

[Calg_93GS]

well im on my 3rd tank of gas now. first was 3/4 tank of 87 left over from the P.O. , after about 100km on the highway it threw a CEL while pulling a decent hill - i speculated that maybe it was seeing some knock, and filled it with 94. unfortunately my friends scanner wouldnt link up with the cars computer? it plugs in fine but just errors out when i press link. Anyone else have this problem? i'd prefer to not get butt fondled at the dealership just to have a code cleared...

so still dont know what the code is, but car continues to run fine although its a bit thirsty when you put your foot into it too much, haha.

use this to find out what blew the CEL

Locate and open the "Diagnostic" box under the hood. It's by the firewall. Below is shown a representation of the pins inside the Diagnostic box:


The pins labelled "TEN" (which stands for "Test ENgine" by the way) and GND (ground) are the pins of interest. Make sure the ignition is OFF and use a paperclip to jumper the TEN and GND pins together.

Turn on the ignition (do not start the car) and watch the CEL. After about 4-seconds, it will begin to flash any codes that may be stored. If there are no codes stored, the CEL will not flash (it will go out.)

Malfunction codes are generally 2-digit affairs although Mazda decided to get tricky. They include 2-digit codes that involve '0' (zero) as a digit. Code 02 is one example. Code 10 is another.

The codes are broken into a 10s digit and a 1s digit. The 10s digit is flashed first, followed by the 1s digit. The digits are distinguished by the length of time they flash the CEL. 10s digits flash the CEL on for 1.2-sec while 1s digits flash the CEL for 0.4-sec. Digits that are '0' (zero) flash the CEL exactly zero times.

The diagram below illustrates graphically how two typical malfunction codes might be flashed out.


Note how the presumably single-digit code '3' flashes the CEL for short-pulses only. This indicates the 10s digit is zero for this code.

List of codes and what they correspond to:

02 'NE2' crankshaft position sensor

03 'G' camshaft position sensor

04 'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position
sensor

05 Knock sensor

08 Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF)

09 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS)

10 Intake air temperature sensor (IAT)

12 Throttle position sensor (TPS)

14 Barometric pressure sensor

15 LHO2S inactivation error

16 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system

17 LHO2S inversion error

23 RHO2S inactivation error

24 RHO2S inversion error

25 Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid

26 Canister purge solenoid

28 EGR vacuum solenoid

29 EGR vent solenoid

34 Idle air control (IAC) solenoid

41 VRIS #1 solenoid

46 VRIS #2 solenoid

[libtechsplit]

Hey thanks for the reply. Unfortunately i dont think that applies to my car cuz i happen to have an OBD2, but still good info if i ever end up with an older one of these cars.

luckily i was in princess auto last week when they happened to be selling OBD2 scanners for 50$. i figured what the hell, ill try one and if it doesnt work ill just return it. well, the cheapy scanner linked up just fine, unlike my mechanic friends expensive one, haha. Turns out its just an EGR code. I hoped it wasnt going to do that since the EGR is plugged in, but oh well, i can live with it.