IceQueen and CaffeineTripp - 1993 MX-3 Base

[CaffeineTripp]

I've gotten in touch with a local fabrication shop which deals mainly in welding, pipe bending, and customization overall for pretty much anything; http://www.barkerswelding.com/. I haven't gotten a price on anything yet, but the plan is to get specs for a true cold air intake. Yes, we're aware that installing a cold air intake doesn't give that much horsepower, maybe 1-3 extra depending on supporting modifications to the engine, exhaust, and so on, but knowing that a shop that doesn't deal mainly with aftermarket vehicle performance has the capability to do so is rather nice. Let alone we might have somewhere to go in the future for a custom intercooler piping set up for the intended BP swap, so long as the dimensions are designed ahead of time.
I would imagine the cost for something this extensive, especially, in a sense, a one-off product, will cost around $300-$400. Then again, we may go the route of purchasing universal intercooler piping and routing it how we need it at a fraction of the price, then bringing the pieces into the shop and having them weld everything together. Of course, this would be much cheaper and less time consuming for finding all the measurements and designing the pipe around the VE of the engine.

As a little update to the audio for the MX, we've added my sub and mono amp to the car to give it a much more full sound. Sure, the Infinitys in the front doors do put out some good bass, not to mention the crystal mids and highs, but it's just not resonant enough. So, the 12" Infinity Reference (can't for the life of me remember the model number) and the Alpine MRP-450 really bring the music to a good level.
The amp's gain is definitely turned down quite a bit with not a whole lot of bass boost as it was quite overpowering to the settings I had it at in the Talon. Lots more volume in the Talon's interior than that of the MX's! It was rather ridiculous right away and not even close to it's full potential. Got a bit deaf before tuning the amp and the deck! As it sits right now, it's pretty spot on, but still a bit obnoxious as it's slow to hit the bass for rock songs. Switching to an 8" sub will be perfect, definitely something with a long excursion will do the trick if we can find an 8" sub that has the flex of a 10", yet be tight enough for double-kick bass drum while allowing the lows that pop and dubstep require.
Anyway, here's a picture of the hatch as it sits right now. No worries on the wires hanging out everywhere, I've got some loom to clean up the look.

[CaffeineTripp]

Within the last month, the MX has come down with a few problems: Passenger side axle boot tore, passenger side front strut blown, brakes are worn, neutral safety switch is being temperamental, CEL code 3 is now constantly on (still retains gas mileage and most of the engine's power).

There is also quite an annoying clunking/rattling sound, most likely due from the blown strut, when driving over bumps. The ride went from crisp and clean to driving a 70's Cadillac; soupy and bouncy. I'd say it's time for a suspension upgrade, but Excel-G struts will be fine.
The axle may just get a boot replacement, but at the same time, not sure when the transmission oil was changed, so might as well take care of that and the axle assembly itself.
The CEL code 3 is only giving these symptoms; hesitation at lower RPM, possible misfire when slight throttle input (maybe 10%-15% throttle). Will do plugs and wires. Cap and rotor appear fine, but then again...
Checked out code 3 via the workshop manual, everything seems within spec with the exception of the orange signal(?) wire running from the distributor to the ECU. May have to replace the wire.

[CaffeineTripp]

Coming this Thursday I'll be doing a write up of creating a short ram intake for the MX-3 using some spare intercooler piping, a Spectre filter, and Spectre MAF adapter.
Eventually, we'll get down to making a heat shield and possibly wrapping the intake in some thermal intake wrap to make sure that the intake is not heat soaking.
This is a little down and dirty away from my goal of having a custom intake made for the vehicle, but at the same time it's a heck of a lot cheaper than doing a custom intake pipe. I know this won't add the horsepower that a lot of the companies claim (and I can't believe that their claims of added horsepower are all that great or truthful), but a couple extra horsepower, along with a bit better gas mileage for the engine, couldn't hurt at all. Especially some much needed low-end torque.
Maybe even try hacking the MAF a little to see if that will help flow at all, but then again, it might be impossible. Some more checking of the forums will definitely help.

Curious, has anyone installed an A'Pexi SAFC (knob style) into the MX with the B6 ECU?

[CaffeineTripp]

Well, it seems that the build of the B6/BP swap has been postponed. For good reason though. The B6/BP build has taken a seat to the newly purchased MX-3. It's in much cleaner condition (needs a good wax job though) along with some other tidbits here and there.

We present to you an MX-3 complete with a 2.5" downpipe back (into a crappy sounding Pacesetter Monza muffler which will be swapped to a Magnaflow with much deeper tone), Maxxim wheels, stiffer struts/shocks (at least they damned well feel that way), a Spectre (I'm assuming) intake, full rebuild on the motor, solid mounts, Corksport short shifter (not complete with the shifter bushings which will be purchased), B8 transmission with a 4 puck/6 puck disc.

The KL-ZE swapped MX.











Considering that the leg work was done at swapping the engine, and every integral part to the car, which she has a bit of a problem now and then with stalling, most likely due to old gasoline mixed in, clogged fuel filter (as the vehicle has been stored for about two years), has been completed. She starts, drives, and hauls a-- like a top. Coupled with the short gears of the BP transmission, she gets up and goes like no one's business.

Plans for this car are rather low, considering this was nearly the goal.

Engine:

Supercharger
Head work
-Machining
-Valves
-Valve Springs

Transmission/Drivetrain:

Transmission swap to KL-DE
Clutch
-New pressure plate (something a bit stronger than stock)
Shifter Bushings

Brakes:

Slotted/Dimpled Front Rotors
Ceramic Pads

Exhaust:

Magnaflow Muffler (I'll measure the Pacesetter then get back with a part number for the Magnaflow)

Suspension:

1.0"/1.5" drop, nothing more
Strut Tower Bars
Poly Bushings all around (sway bar mounts, body, control arms, etc.)

Electronics:

AEM UEGO
A'Pexi SAFC
Autometer Boost Gauge

I feel that we're missing some things, but nevertheless, they'll be posted, dealt with, and added as time goes on.

The new whip will be sitting for the entire winter, and definitely will not be driven in the snow. That's what the first MX is for.

[AaronTietje]

Very nice car.

[kulluminati777]

has this been freshly painted or is that factory? Also about time to loose those ugly/annoying auto belts for some weight saving sexy manual ones! but with that beig said GREAT CAR! i love seeing black MX3's

[CaffeineTripp]

she's definitely got a paint job on her. Can't remember what the original color was, might have even been black. Got a bit of a dent on the rear driver quarter panel which was patched with Bondo (and not a very good job at it), but nothing that can't be fixed. There is no rust on the body at all. It'll be stored winter and only driven on the weekends.

I assume that the auto belts came only in the Canadian and Japanese cars?

[kulluminati777]

naw it comes in american ones as well but only in the cars that are 94+ (the ones with the ugly bubble dash). If you search junk yards hard enough you will find em. Or post up on the WTB forum thats how i got mine. Now i dont have to worry about the autobelts choking me out from time to time plus yours might not have failed yet but they will.....or trust me they will.....

[CaffeineTripp]

Problem with the driver's seat belt on the new MX-3 and the old MX-3 is the contact point on the shoulder belt. The seat belt light blinks and beeps constantly due to there not being much metal left on the 'clutch' itself. It's repairable, as far as I know, just a matter of figuring out how to fix the contact point so it's smooth enough for the wires to run on it without causing more problems. Was thinking something along the lines of an Arctic Silver compound, the only problem is it's still in a liquid state and won't last long at all.
Might have to do some searching for either a replacement part or the forums as to how to fix it. Save a bit of money doing it that way rather than spending the cash now and getting manual belts, which would be much better.

[kulluminati777]

there is a wire mod you put in the thingy ma bobber under the center console that gets rid of the beep and warning light. It ost like 30 cents and it was my VERY first ``mod´´ like 4 year ago so i know it works i beleive its in the FAQ. The manual belts i bought the whole set up for 30 bucks from a member but maybe you could find it cheaper in a scarp yard. So its cheap, updates the interior (auto belts are 90´s at its finest), and the whole set up for the auto belts adds ALOT of unnecessary weight......but to each there own. With that being said VERY sexy car. I cant wait to get mine resprayed....

[CaffeineTripp]

Ran into some front end 'clunking' issues recently. Tore down the side that the noise was coming from and noticed that the struts, strut mounts, passenger side CVAxle, and the sway bar links were in awful condition. Replaced all, of course. And that helped, quite a bit. But after a little while the noise came back, and this time even worse. Inspected once again and noticed that the rear bushing on the lower control arm on the passenger side is basically gone; cracked all the way through and more play that I deem necessary.

Instead of replacing the entire control arm and ball joint assembly, as they are still in great condition, I'd like to get just the rear bushing; part number 34-46X and 34-46Y in the below picture.



However, I cannot find the control arm, let alone the bushings at my job, nor at any other parts store available, RockAuto doesn't even carry them. Are there any replacements that can be used? say from the MX-6/323/Protege that will be a direct bolt on? Or do I have to go the route of getting polyurethane bushings? And, if I have to get the poly bushings, I'd like to get all four bushings for both of the control arms. If there's a kit, what's the part number? I've searched on this thread but with no good information as to whether or not these kits are direct replacements for the MX-3's lower control arms.

[Sleeper6]

You can get the rear control arm bushings seperate but you will need to get the body mount piece for it as well just look for one for an escort zx2

[CaffeineTripp]

I assume that the K5161 part number may work then? I can't find any dimensions on for the OEM bushing anywhere? Is the bracket integral to the bushing or completely separate?

[davmac]

You can use the following Energy Suspension kit:
Energy Suspension 4.3152

This is a complete set for both front control arms.

You'll need to press / pound the existing bushings out of the brackets you have.
To get some tips check out this link.

I'd be willing to send you a set of ES rear bushings for the control arms for the price of shipping. I bought some spherical stainless steel bushings for the rear and only used the front ones from the ES set.

[CaffeineTripp]

The exhaust has been replaced from the cat-back using stock sized piping and replacing the 1.6 muffler with the 1.8's muffler; a little better flow. The resonator was deleted, but there doesn't seem to be any noticeable drone, then again, the fiancee only drove it with terrible exhaust. I may be making/buying a test pipe to remove the catalytic once it goes bad instead of spending the 80+ on a universal and having a shop weld it in.
Unfortunately the shop didn't mandrel bend the tubing, only press bent it, but no big deal.

Nice to have the power band back with much quieter running.