MX-3.com

Where are you located?

onlytrueromeo wrote:Where are you located?

Cresson PA

I will part anything out to anyone on here before I sell the entire car, so if anyone needs anything let me know quick.

Hate to do it but it would cost me over $1000 to even make it reliable, and I don't have the cash right now and need a dd.

Ahh, damn. Too far for you to come pick up a spare shell with minimal rust to patch your car together.

Yeah, for many of us here our cars are projects as well as commuters

GL with the sale!

Man now I finally see everyone in Pittsburgh after I left. Anyways if you go to Millerstown upull it theres about 3-4shells out there if you wanted to ressurect your mx

Lateralus wrote:

I've had rockers worse than that...

I cut all the s--- out, (which left only a tiny amount of material, literally, more hole than steel) and the glued/rivited a better-condition panel on top. Holding like a champ. The hardest part was re-creating the curvature where the fender comes in.

Those of you whose car isn't at this point yet, pop off your door sil and pour a few cups of rustoleum down there, and go drive/brake to splash it around. It may leak out of some places, so pick a colour close to your car....

I see that as another point to run a CAI from. Optimisim that's the key. Anyway any shop can 'roll' you new rockers. As long as the main attachments points for your lower control arms and rear training/I mean trailing arms etc. are ok then carry on and repair the rest. You can bend sheet metal your self. I rolled a piece of metal on pipe that supports my front porch roof.

Daninski wrote:your lower control arms and rear training arms etc. are ok

Hmmm...
Are those arms for training in what kind of sport?

That's just one spot. I would have to literally disassemble the entire car down to the shell and patch every square inch almost sadly And even if i did all that, i would need new brake/fuel lines, gas tank supports, trailing arms, calipers, exhaust, pretty much everything rotted out because the last owner couldn't do something as simple as washing the salt off before he parked it

I mean, it is fixable but just not for me at the moment :/

Yeah, the problem is usually not that it can't be fixed, but what it would cost to do it properly. I'm in the same boat, although not nearly as leaky a boat as you...lol.

Don't use rustoleum. If you want something that will work, use POR15. You will need spray wand and undercoating gun. You can reduce POR15 a bit as it's pretty thick and is usually brushed on.


You insert it inside one of the frame rail holes and mask off others so it won't shoot out. It has 360 degree head so it will coat inside of entire frame rail.

You lost 90% of us at the "you need a wand and a spray gun" part.


I know you're right mitmaks, but I know that the rest of us don't have the proper tools, or the money to spend on the tools we'll use once, or even the drive to learn something as dauntingly difficult as spraying anything.

Ryan wrote:You lost 90% of us at the "you need a wand and a spray gun" part.


I know you're right mitmaks, but I know that the rest of us don't have the proper tools, or the money to spend on the tools we'll use once, or even the drive to learn something as dauntingly difficult as spraying anything.

I've attached pictures for reference. I bought same exact tools. I think I've paid less than $50 for all of that and I know I can use it over and over. It does not require much skill. All you do is fill it with por15 or other rust treatment, screw spray wand on the end of it and spray inside of frame rails/areas you can't reach. As you're moving it back and forth it will cover entire inside of frame rails with rust treatment.

A quart of POR15 is like $80... rustoleum is available local for like $20 a gallon

Ryan wrote:A quart of POR15 is like $80... rustoleum is available local for like $20 a gallon

quart is $40 and it does work, you can use whatever YOU like, it's YOUR car. Once it starts rusting again you only have yourself to blame