MX-3.com

I used the aerosol cans which comes as it says 2k.

I don't see how they could put 2K clear into aerosol can. What kind of clear is it Urethane, acrylic, etc? Id like to see specs for it.
What happens is when you mix clear with activator there's chemical reaction that takes place. It produces reaction and expands as it hardens, so if it was in aerosol can it would simply blow up
I see picture of it and I'm sure it's NOT actual 2K clear coat. I think this is regular acrylic clear coat that you can buy in most auto parts stores. As I've said if you put activator and clear into rattle can it will simply swell up like a balloon and most likely blow up, cause of reaction between activator and clear coat.
This would explain why it stays soft, it actually never dries even when it will feel dry to the touch. You could probably wipe it off with acetone rag. I think this company is just misleading consumer when they put 2K on the can, simple case of false advertising.

The technical data
http://www.hbbody.com/techdata/clearcoa ... SRAPID.pdf
And a better view saying 2k in aerosol
http://www.hbbody.com/prod3/prod25_large.htm
There are a lot of companies with 2k logo in their aerosol cans..
A chance for sue them
What is your opinion about black primer as final colour in cars?
Can it hold?Any tips?
I am thinking of painting my car like that.
In the manual it says one soft coat and after 5 minutes of flash off a second full coat.anything other than that?
Btw it is 3:1 and it says that you can but it is not necessary to use thinner..

Tell us YOU ARE THE EXPERT:)

Deadmaker: seriously. Are you kidding???

General Technical Description
Mix 2:1 with BODY 720 NORMAL HARDENER
BODY 722 FAST HARDENER
BODY 721 SLOW HARDENER

2:1 is the clear coat
3:1 is the primer i want to use..
http://www.hbbody.com/techdata/primers/bodyfill300.pdf

I was right, those are all acrylic products. They don't belong on a car in my opinion. You want to go with Urethane base/clear or at least acrylic urethane system

In a perfect world we would all have access to quality body products and skills. But in truth we have to make due with what we can afford to try to keep our cars going. If that means using acrylic for a 10th the cost of urethane which can be applied easily in my own garage...well...that's just the way it has to be for some of us.

wytbishop wrote:In a perfect world we would all have access to quality body products and skills. But in truth we have to make due with what we can afford to try to keep our cars going. If that means using acrylic for a 10th the cost of urethane which can be applied easily in my own garage...well...that's just the way it has to be for some of us.

Guy probably pays as much as I pay for urethane base/clear for this crap of a paint.

DeadMaker wrote:2:1 is the clear coat
3:1 is the primer i want to use..
http://www.hbbody.com/techdata/primers/bodyfill300.pdf

2:1 and 3:1 are the PROPORTIONS you need to use of catalyst for the paint and primer to dry. As Mitmaks said, neither will harden if you don't mix them with the right catalyst.

Inodoro Pereyra wrote:

DeadMaker wrote:2:1 is the clear coat
3:1 is the primer i want to use..
http://www.hbbody.com/techdata/primers/bodyfill300.pdf

2:1 and 3:1 are the PROPORTIONS you need to use of catalyst for the paint and primer to dry. As Mitmaks said, neither will harden if you don't mix them with the right catalyst.

I know dude what 2:1 or 3:1 is..LOL
For the primer i want to use is 3:1.The catalyst you use is the catalyst the that the company provides you for this specific product

mitmaks wrote:I was right, those are all acrylic products. They don't belong on a car in my opinion. You want to go with Urethane base/clear or at least acrylic urethane system

In Europe and in Greece the car colours that are used in a paintshop are based in water.This is by the law for environment protection.If you go to a shop and paint the car water colour will be use..
I have never heard about urethane system..In a search i did in local sites most of this type of paints are used on boats!
And from another search i did i found this
Automotive paints can be divided in two families: nitrocellulose-based and acrylic. Note that due to environmental restrictions, nitrocellulose paints may not be available anymore in most countries.
Btw the ourethane colour is wayyyy more expensive than the acrylic..

DeadMaker wrote:

mitmaks wrote:I was right, those are all acrylic products. They don't belong on a car in my opinion. You want to go with Urethane base/clear or at least acrylic urethane system

In Europe and in Greece the car colours that are used in a paintshop are based in water.This is by the law for environment protection.If you go to a shop and paint the car water colour will be use..
I have never heard about urethane system..In a search i did in local sites most of this type of paints are used on boats!
And from another search i did i found this
Automotive paints can be divided in two families: nitrocellulose-based and acrylic. Note that due to environmental restrictions, nitrocellulose paints may not be available anymore in most countries.
Btw the ourethane colour is wayyyy more expensive than the acrylic..

Yes, urethane is more expensive, it lasts MUCH longer. You get what you pay for

Is it really that it is used and on boats?

I'm not sure what's used on boats. Probably depends on who's the manufacturer. You could even try Ebay to buy some decent paint if you can't get it in your country....

mitmaks wrote:I'm not sure what's used on boats. Probably depends on who's the manufacturer. You could even try Ebay to buy some decent paint if you can't get it in your country....

Gelcoat would be the winner on that one, and boy is it fun to restore.