Believe what you want...

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concealer404
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by concealer404 »

solo_ryder wrote:
concealer404 wrote: GR2s vs. S/Rs? Toss a coin. Price is about the same. HPs are better, but i don't find them worth the $ premium over the other two options.
Why do you state that the HP's are the best of the bunch. I think the S/R's are the best of the 3. I had a set of HPs and I hated them. Blew 1 in 4 months of owning them on measly, soft a-- suspension techniques springs. I was not impressed for the 400$ I paid for the shocks.
(All testing done with Megan Racing springs.)

GR2 - lasted about 5,000 miles then blew. Didn't bother trying to get them replaced under warranty (good luck with that, btw :P), because they weren't even close to being valved properly to deal with the Megans.

S/R - I had a real hard time telling the difference between these and the GR2s. At the end of the day, yes, they're valved for a "performance" variant of an Escort that uses Eibach Pro-kit springs. Eibach Pro-Kit springs are GARBAGE progressive springs with a very low rate. The S/R is NOT a great performance strut no matter how you look at it. Worth the money, for sure, but it will never hold up to higher spring rates, and the Megans i was running weren't even that high. 300f/250r if i remember correctly.

The HPs weren't great.... but they held up. Still slightly underdamped for the Megans, but they were closer than the other two. But at twice the price? Screw 'em. Don't even bother.
The S/R's on the other hand have lasted over 3 years now and are still kicking. I blew one strut after 2 years of usage all while being on stiff a--, lowest setting ground control sleeves which are way to stiff for the dampening/rebound of the S/R's. If I had the HPs I would almost guarantee you the HPs woulda blown within 6 months. I realize the S/Rs are made by tokico but the valving is just that much better to make the strut better suited to lowering springs etc. Not to mention the sturt shaft itself is shorter in the ZX2 front shock so it gives you alil more travel in the shock.
I think i understand what you're saying.... but just want to make sure we're on the same page. Valving doesn't have much to do with "lowering springs." Stroke does, which you said earlier. Your standard lowering springs have extremely low spring rates to retain comfort. (Pro-kit, whatever junk comes on the Tokico kit) The reason why the S/R holds up is because of the stroke/shaft. It's not bottoming out and blowing seals when you hit a pothole. That said, i'd bet good money that if you put a new S/R and a new HP on a shock dyno against each other, you'd find that the HP is valved stiffer, and is better suited for a true performance spring. (Better is relative. It's still utter crap.)
The GR2s do come at the back of the pack I agree, but there is one thing they have that the others do not offer and that is a lifetime warranty, even with lowering springs that do not go lower then 2". At least that is what I was told by a reputable parts store fellow when I was pricing them out. If it wasnt for the cheap pricing of the S/Rs (GR2 isnt that cheap in Canada, about the same as HP) I woulda went with those and replaced them no questions asked whenever I needed.

The HP is not a high end strut, it is a OEM replacment with slightly better valving specs. The GR2 is basically OEM replacement.
Sure, none of the three are. For performance, they all suck. Bad. :lol: But hey, you get what you pay for. :)
The Tokico Illumina is a higher end strut and so is the KYB AGX. Both offer dampening adjustibilty and increased valving. Sadly they are not options for us MX folk (direct bolt on) so we are stuck with these mid-low range options that really dont need too much discussion. Unless of course you can afford to shell out for Koni inserts.
Holding out for direct bolt on while driving an obscure derelict chassis that nobody cares about is a bit.... nearsighted. You guys need to find options while you still can. Your options come from other somewhat unpopular cars, so you' better figure it out quick. You'll never have a good "bolt-on" option with these things. That time passed a decade ago. You can still get great stuff, but there's a distinct lack of midrange suspension knowledge. (I consider the Illumina and the AGX a midrange shock. They're...... good. But not great.) Right now, everyone is convinced they've either got the S/R + whatever springs, or KSports, then AWR. There's a distinct lack of anything in between.
solo_ryder wrote:
concealer404 wrote:Bear in mind that i'm not 100% familiar with these cars other than tearing down my donor car, but i'm pretty sure that you can use anything the BG cars can use. And the BG cars CAN use 2nd gen MX6/Probe Illuminas. You'll need spacers between the spindle and ears on the rear, and that's about it. They also have a shorter stroke, which would be a good thing for autox application in particular.
This is true, I was contemplating taking my brothers illumina/GC setup and running it on my mx, but he ended up selling them with his car. The ride difference was quite noticeable front he S/R and GC combo. It did not bob as much in the front end leading me to believe the valving was much better. The strut shaft was also alot beefier in the front and rear so they would be fairly heavy duty for a MX, good for track and auto-x for sure.

As for the spacers, actually I think they are needed on the front, you will also need the probe/mx6 strut bolts as since you will be spacing them out you will need a longer bolt. The rears should bolt up fine
[/quote]

Sure, just bear in mind that the setup may have behaved completely differently on your car. When valving a shock, you also have to account for geometry and the weight of the car. They're somewhat different, but not too bad between MX3 and MX6 i guess, though. MX3 GS is way heavier than i would have thought. Within about 100lbs of the MX6, so i bet it would work.

You're probably right on the spacers... shortly after i did the research as to what was needed (still have the charts around somewhere, i'll find them tomorrow for you guys), i ended up going Koni/GroundControl/QA1/Eibach Race/Cusco, and didn't bother testing fitting the Illuminas.

:)


I like this thread.
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Vecia
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by Vecia »

Inodoro Pereyra wrote: Besides that, just as a heads up, the concept of "racing in the streets" is highly frowned upon in this forum. Street racing is not cool, nor fun: it's stupid and irresponsible. I'd advise you to avoid that kind of comments here.
[/quote]

Dude, I'm talking about legal street racing. Kenadale Raceway is a legal track here. I do not condone illegal street racing nor did I imply that.
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DeadMaker
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by DeadMaker »

Ok when the time will come to change my suspension i think i will go with koni red.I think their are the best from all the options we have.Now for the springs i would really like to get rid of the stiff h&r and get some softer stuff like B&G or vogtland or intrax.B&G lower the car about 1.6 front and rear i think..Any other proposal on soft springs?Any experience with these?
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Inodoro Pereyra
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by Inodoro Pereyra »

Vecia wrote:
Inodoro Pereyra wrote: Besides that, just as a heads up, the concept of "racing in the streets" is highly frowned upon in this forum. Street racing is not cool, nor fun: it's stupid and irresponsible. I'd advise you to avoid that kind of comments here.
Dude, I'm talking about legal street racing. Kenadale Raceway is a legal track here. I do not condone illegal street racing nor did I imply that.[/quote]

That's good to know. :)

Now, I'm by no means an expert in the English language (far from it), but I thought what you're referring to was called "road course racing" (which in my opinion is the ONLY real form of racing), as opposed to "street racing", which is always illegal.
Again, I may be wrong (wouldn't be so shocking), but, in any case, that's the source of the confusion.
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concealer404
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by concealer404 »

DeadMaker wrote:Ok when the time will come to change my suspension i think i will go with koni red.I think their are the best from all the options we have.Now for the springs i would really like to get rid of the stiff h&r and get some softer stuff like B&G or vogtland or intrax.B&G lower the car about 1.6 front and rear i think..Any other proposal on soft springs?Any experience with these?
Matching Reds with some low-rate comfort springs doesn't make much sense.

What are the spring rate of the H&Rs you have? I'd bet it's not that high at all, and part of the reason the ride sucks is because you have them on shocks that just can't handle it, and it's not dampened properly.

I imagine you bounce a lot?
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DeadMaker
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by DeadMaker »

H&R spring rate
Front:314
Rear:148

I used them with kyb.The ride qyality was awfull.
Why do you say that mach red with comfort springs doesn't make any sense?
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Vecia
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by Vecia »

Inodoro Pereyra wrote: Now, I'm by no means an expert in the English language (far from it), but I thought what you're referring to was called "road course racing" (which in my opinion is the ONLY real form of racing), as opposed to "street racing", which is always illegal.
Again, I may be wrong (wouldn't be so shocking), but, in any case, that's the source of the confusion.
No issue... :)

That's what my friends and I call it. One place I know is like an abandoned neighborhood. Streets but no houses. Guess we call it street racing because they are streets :shrug: You can register your car and pay an entry fee. Thursday nights is pinks but you only ever see the high profile cars down there. Used to go to the drag at Greenvalley but they closed several years back.

Anyway, sorry for f-ing up this thread.
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Josh
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by Josh »

concealer404 wrote:
DeadMaker wrote:Ok when the time will come to change my suspension i think i will go with koni red.I think their are the best from all the options we have.Now for the springs i would really like to get rid of the stiff h&r and get some softer stuff like B&G or vogtland or intrax.B&G lower the car about 1.6 front and rear i think..Any other proposal on soft springs?Any experience with these?
Matching Reds with some low-rate comfort springs doesn't make much sense.

What are the spring rate of the H&Rs you have? I'd bet it's not that high at all, and part of the reason the ride sucks is because you have them on shocks that just can't handle it, and it's not dampened properly.

I imagine you bounce a lot?
What?

I ran my Koni Reds with Eibach Pro's for years. One of the best riding/handling cars i have ever been in. It is a tolerable ride and handles impeccably with 17" wheels and 205/40's , it beats out my 8 with full MAZDASPEED coils and sways every time. It makes a lot of sense to match the two. Why would you not? the Konis are 5 way damp adjustable, so it makes it easier to match the valving to the spring rate. You would be quite surprised and probably impressed to see what the Koni's or just good struts do to your ride even with OEM springs...

I would much prefer over performing struts with under performing springs (So to speak), than over performing springs and under performing struts. I know the stiff bouncing ride gives some the feel that they have a great suspension set up but is quite the opposite and more dangerous than functional.

I have ridden in many MX-3's with under several formats and your wheel and tire choices are equally important aspect that no one has mentioned here. next to my car Bugs car rode on 16" wheels with KYB and H&R's it was impressive as hell, and been 5 years and the car still has the same set up and going. its about matching your setup to your needs as a whole.

You guys should not be having these problems. You have to match the springs to the strut. That is why you blow so many of them. Spring ride height/ Spring stiffness/ struts/ and wheel and tires all go hand in hand here.

You want a softer ride, go with softer springs and better struts like Eibach's, you will out handle most on here guaranteed, especially by stiffing up the dampening. OR go with 16" or 15" wheels you will have tons of role but it will be softer.

In my 10years of owning this car and seeing many go through countless setups I will only recommend this.
-ZX-2's great for the guy looking to get that little bit of an edge out of their DD/ great Bang for the buck over stock mx parts
- you have money always go with Koni's the Best replacement for the MX hands down Unless you can find some MS struts somewhere.
- KYB's are probably the next best option for direct replacement struts they are designed to take on aftermarket springs, (shorter ride height) now thats not a buying GC's and slamming them that is bad.
- I say when it comes to springs go with the two company's that have been making them the longest and who have put the most R&D into them for the car. Eibach for a softer more tolerable ride over stock, or a little stiffer ride and more of a drop with H&R's. Intrax if they still make them are another good option. These springs all will be well suited with any strut and the best choices IMO will always be Koni Red's 1st and KYB's 2nd.

I would never recommend Tokico's they are prone to failure and have been for as long as they have been making them for the car. same reason I would tell someone not to do the ZX2 conversion.

Save up and get the good stuff because if you plan on keeping your car you will just end up spending the money in the long run eventually. I saved money and parts for over a year to do my AWD conversion and saved parts for almost 2 years to do my BP build. sure it takes time but you will be happier in the long run.
Last edited by Josh on June 20th, 2011, 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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DeadMaker
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by DeadMaker »

Josh do you have a pic of your car with Koni eibach?
In which adjustable position you have koni?
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Josh
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by Josh »

This is my Ride height when I was still FWD 1.6L turbo, after installation

Image

after some time to settle, like 3 years of settling...

Image

and stock ride height, crazy what was considered cool 10 years ago. haha

Image


Now i have gone from the Eibach's to Ground Controls with H&R Pre-load springs, and Cusco camber plates. Several years in the making on this setup

Oh stiffness, I say go stiff or go home. so they are at max. I played with them a lot and grew tired of taking them down to adjust the dampening (only downside to the Koni's), so i suffered a bit of ride quality for a firmer ride. when i say firmer that means with the Koni's and Eibach's you cant rock the car side to side, the only wiggle is tire sidewall. They are impressive struts, way better than the MS Coils in my RX8
Last edited by Josh on June 20th, 2011, 5:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by DeadMaker »

Dude we have exactly the same rings..LOL.Mines are 16.I am thinking of paint them black mat
How come and you didn't stay in eibach?
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Josh
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by Josh »

DeadMaker wrote:Dude we have exactly the same rings..LOL.Mines are 16.I am thinking of paint them black mat
How come and you didn't stay in eibach?
Nice! everyone is trying to get me to change them. I love em, I will only change them if i Swap to 5 lug.

I went away from the Eibach's because i wanted more control over my suspension with the AWD swap. so i purchased custom spring rates based off of the GTR Specs and the added weight differences between the two cars, as well as I wanted to have control over my ride height. I have built the car with Auto-X in mind, and this will be the cars main purpose when complete. So soon goes in the roll bar and the rest of the suspension setup, I have H&R spacers to throw on to get my wheels out further. have to take off the Hubs. the only thing i would really like now is an MS front sway, but trying to find one is like finding a needle in a hay stack.

If I was going to keep my car as a DD i would have kept the Eibachs
Last edited by Josh on June 21st, 2011, 3:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
concealer404
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by concealer404 »

Josh wrote:
concealer404 wrote:
DeadMaker wrote:Ok when the time will come to change my suspension i think i will go with koni red.I think their are the best from all the options we have.Now for the springs i would really like to get rid of the stiff h&r and get some softer stuff like B&G or vogtland or intrax.B&G lower the car about 1.6 front and rear i think..Any other proposal on soft springs?Any experience with these?
Matching Reds with some low-rate comfort springs doesn't make much sense.

What are the spring rate of the H&Rs you have? I'd bet it's not that high at all, and part of the reason the ride sucks is because you have them on shocks that just can't handle it, and it's not dampened properly.

I imagine you bounce a lot?
What?

I ran my Koni Reds with Eibach Pro's for years. One of the best riding/handling cars i have ever been in. It is a tolerable ride and handles impeccably with 17" wheels and 205/40's , it beats out my 8 with full MAZDASPEED coils and sways every time. It makes a lot of sense to match the two. Why would you not? the Konis are 5 way damp adjustable, so it makes it easier to match the valving to the spring rate. You would be quite surprised and probably impressed to see what the Koni's or just good struts do to your ride even with OEM springs...

I would much prefer over performing struts with under performing springs (So to speak), than over performing springs and under performing struts. I know the stiff bouncing ride gives some the feel that they have a great suspension set up but is quite the opposite and more dangerous than functional.

I have ridden in many MX-3's with under several formats and your wheel and tire choices are equally important aspect that no one has mentioned here. next to my car Bugs car rode on 16" wheels with KYB and H&R's it was impressive as hell, and been 5 years and the car still has the same set up and going. its about matching your setup to your needs as a whole.

You guys should not be having these problems. You have to match the springs to the strut. That is why you blow so many of them. Spring ride height/ Spring stiffness/ struts/ and wheel and tires all go hand in hand here.

You want a softer ride, go with softer springs and better struts like Eibach's, you will out handle most on here guaranteed, especially by stiffing up the dampening. OR go with 16" or 15" wheels you will have tons of role but it will be softer.

In my 10years of owning this car and seeing many go through countless setups I will only recommend this.
-ZX-2's great for the guy looking to get that little bit of an edge out of their DD/ great Bang for the buck over stock mx parts
- you have money always go with Koni's the Best replacement for the MX hands down Unless you can find some MS struts somewhere.
- KYB's are probably the next best option for direct replacement struts they are designed to take on aftermarket springs, (shorter ride height) now thats not a buying GC's and slamming them that is bad.
- I say when it comes to springs go with the two company's that have been making them the longest and who have put the most R&D into them for the car. Eibach for a softer more tolerable ride over stock, or a little stiffer ride and more of a drop with H&R's. Intrax if they still make them are another good option. These springs all will be well suited with any strut and the best choices IMO will always be Koni Red's 1st and KYB's 2nd.

I would never recommend Tokico's they are prone to failure and have been for as long as they have been making them for the car. same reason I would tell someone not to do the ZX2 conversion.

Save up and get the good stuff because if you plan on keeping your car you will just end up spending the money in the long run eventually. I saved money and parts for over a year to do my AWD conversion and saved parts for almost 2 years to do my BP build. sure it takes time but you will be happier in the long run.

All good points... :)

My point was merely that if you were going to save up and get good performance shocks like Reds, why half-a-- it with some progressive rate "lowering springs" (Prokits) that don't have any real performance aspect to them?

I just don't see the point, personally.

I don't get how going with 15 or 16" wheels affects body roll, either.
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Josh
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by Josh »

Tire roll, not body. sorry

keeping the proper diameter of the wheel tire size for your speedo, by increasing your rim size you reduce your tire sidewall height reducing tire roll increasing the handling, but increase overall stiffness of the tire and compromise the ride because of the reduced sidewall. opposite affect when you go to a smaller rim size you increase your sidewall having more roll in corners but the overall ride is softer.

so by combining stiff springs like H&R's (and a good strut combo) with say 16" wheels vs 17" wheels and the proper tire sizes, the 16" wheel and tire choice is going to ride a lot better than the 17's will because of the increased sidewall of the tire. and be a completely different feel than if you were running 17's. then the other hand would be tire choices will effect this as well.

all i was trying to get at was that the wheel and tire combos should be just as much a part of this discussion as struts and spring choices. because we all have different setups and this drastically effects the way your car feels/ handles with same or different setups.

I bet that a majority of those who go through struts run 17" wheels. because of the reduced sidewall of the tire its not there to take the shock, so the strut is taking on more of it than it would with 16" wheels. It may not seem like it makes a difference but it does especially depending on the conditions of the roads that you drive.
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Re: Believe what you want...

Post by DeadMaker »

Josh wrote:


so by combining stiff springs like H&R's (and a good strut combo) with say 16" wheels vs 17" wheels and the proper tire sizes, the 16" wheel and tire choice is going to ride a lot better than the 17's will because of the increased sidewall of the tire. with 16" wheels.
Ok so with this theory is better to use 13'' than 14'' cause with 13 we will have more sidewall isn't that right?
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