MX-3.com

thanks for posting that page so that you can all see that in no way shape or form will adjusting the strut mount compensate negative camber greater than 29 degress. I have over 1 degree of - camber beyond recommended specs.

Thanks

Ovaling the strut is perfectly safe...

Think about the cornering dynamics. If you oval the top bolt out, during cornering, the outside tire is taking the vast majority (if not all, Mooneggs) of the force. Since the bottom of the tire is being forced in, the top is being forced out, and since its pivoting around the bottom bolt, the top bolt is being forced against the edge of what you ovalled.

This is not to mention that the torque spec is 90 ft lbs and that would produce force in the neighbourhood of 10 000 lbs...

If just a bump, you're working with a tiny moment. The place the tire was loaded can be at most 3 or 4 inches away from the pivot point. Unless you seriously slam her into a pothole at highway speeds (which will wreck a "proper" alignment anyway) it will be just fine.


You think a camber bolt is better? Hardly. Once you finally get the damn thing properly torqued down, its subject to the SAME FAILURE is ovalling, just in both directions now. As an added bonus, you now have to get another alignment every time you want to drop a strut or hub (for whatever reason).

Ryan wrote:You think a camber bolt is better? Hardly. Once you finally get the damn thing properly torqued down, its subject to the SAME FAILURE is ovalling, just in both directions now. As an added bonus, you now have to get another alignment every time you want to drop a strut or hub (for whatever reason).

Thats why you score the side of the bolt as well as the side of the strut, that way you dont have any realigning issues.