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righty tightly lefty loosy on everything in the car, minus the reverse thread for moving the idler pulleys.

We bought a bigger breaking bar, and it broke. the working impact wrench isn't doing much to it. this is insane

get a 1" or 3/4" breaker bar and socket from a farmer or something.

Also, consider shock loading it. When you're leaning hard on the bar, smash it with a hammer. Make sure the person on the bar is wearing gloves.

you can always stick a big pole on the end
of the breaker bar to gain more leverage,
or even use a little bit of heat on the nut
to expand it, or give it a twat with a hammer
to shock it

i kept the tire on the car. pulled out that little mazda center cap. put the car into gear, and e break on. used a socket wrench with a 3 foot pipe.

Patass wrote:Suggestions? Is the wheel bearing worth a shot? I pumped a ton of grease in there because I read that could also be the problem and it did nothing.

I dont mean to be rude or anything, But where did you put the grease? i dont remembr my wheel berrings having zurk fittings on the MX-3, they were sealed berrings. and they suck to change without a press BTW. I used a socket and a 2.5lb hammer. They go in easier than they come out. but 95% sure thats what your problem is. grab the top of your tire shake it hard back and forth and one of them will probably wiggle or clunk.

Those nuts can be almost impossible at times. Some people use dremel tools, cut the nut to remove it. I too used a 5' bar with a 5' pipe on it and my buddy who weights 280lbs bouncing on the end to loosen that nut. Good Luck If you have a 3/4 drive socket and bar it helps. 1/2 inch can break.

Daninski wrote:Those nuts can be almost impossible at times. Some people use dremel tools, cut the nut to remove it. I too used a 5' bar with a 5' pipe on it and my buddy who weights 280lbs bouncing on the end to loosen that nut. Good Luck If you have a 3/4 drive socket and bar it helps. 1/2 inch can break.

Yeah, we decided to cut it off once the replacement nut comes in.

I just go to the scrap yard and remove the rear "axle" nuts. They're covered in the rear with caps, so they stay shiny new and easy to remove. Pocket loot.

Also, don't cut what the nut is on, thats your axle, and would be expensive if you ruined it.

aye we know. Man this bolt is seriously the biggest pain in the a-- though. We get like one day a week to work on it, and now we're like half way through the thing.

Edit - It's off.

Edit -It's done, the hell noise is slain.