I just remember reading a bunch by Shaodome that said he recommends keeping the IAC and the stock ECU to control it.
If it truly gets rid of the IAC w/o the consequences then that is a good thing, but I'm still not convinced. I would either need to try it myself or have it tested in the severe cold, since I use my car as a DD I would not want it to break, or be stuck for not being able to start.
It should clean up the engine bay, and lower the intake air temps, if you have phenolic spacers, since the coolant that runs through the IAC will heat up the TB. The IAC also causes problems when it gets gunked up, there is a large benefit to having it removed via a block off plate in warm weather.
The reason I do not believe removing it will work well in super cold temperatures is because the IAC actually regulates the AIR going into the engine rather than just controlling fuel/spark like megasquirt.
onlytrueromeo wrote:It should clean up the engine bay, and lower the intake air temps, if you have phenolic spacers, since the coolant that runs through the IAC will heat up the TB. The IAC also causes problems when it gets gunked up, there is a large benefit to having it removed via a block off plate in warm weather.
The reason I do not believe removing it will work well in super cold temperatures is because the IAC actually regulates the AIR going into the engine rather than just controlling fuel/spark like megasquirt.
I'm very interested in the outcome of this. I've started mine in just below freezing (around 29 degrees) several times. I can see how it could be a problem in colder weather.
what feeds air into the engine if the idle pipe is not used?
can i just connect my coolant lines by connecting the 2 lines with a hose and bybassing the TB?
this can be done to any BPT setup right? I live in South Florida so it will never be freezing down here.
