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That doesn't sound rediculous at all...the Paeco build you were talking about at the top of the thread did though.

wytbishop wrote:That doesn't sound rediculous at all...the Paeco build you were talking about at the top of the thread did though.

X2

I think a ze with 210s (maybe the new triflows) and boltons is a sweet idea and the way to go not only price wise but reliabilty wise as well.

I can agree that spray isn't always there, it was an option of course.

Yea i agree looking more into it that paeco idea was idiotic and unrealistic. So how much work is it to switch out my stock cams for 210's? And should i really stick with 210's or should i try some 218's? I havr never done cam work. Also im looking at getting XTREMETHINGS TB and ECU.

illinin09 wrote:Yea i agree looking more into it that paeco idea was idiotic and unrealistic. So how much work is it to switch out my stock cams for 210's? And should i really stick with 210's or should i try some 218's? I havr never done cam work. Also im looking at getting XTREMETHINGS TB and ECU.

Well the ECU you can get cheaper if you get probinator to chip it.

As for the 218's they are sweet, but the idle is pretty loopy. The old 210's are smoother. The triflows.. not sure yet

Here is a vid of the 218's:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHolguc-DOU

210's are gonna be more streetable.

Probinator? I thought that was for a ZE?

Yea, but he still might be able to help you with a custom application. Email him for info

probinator chipped klde ecu, or the xtremesomethings ecu?

If you build a high compression DE with ZE, or bigger cams, and a KLG4 IM, I'll sell you my ECU. It is chipped for exactly that. I am running MegaSquirt, and have the VRIS, fans, and A/C still controlled by the ECU, but I can configure MS to do it. It would work for a ZE with G4 IM, too.

Heres what im going to be doing. Right now its still stock, just a CAI, w/ a cat-back, highflo cat. Im going to be building the next part in steps, bc i dont have enough money to go all out at once. nxt step is either going to be Headers or Ported G4IM w/ a Xtremethings TB. From there I will probably move on to colt 210's or 218's. After that probably finding some ZE pistons, or higher comp not sure yet if id have to change the rods if i get any higher. How much would you be willing to sell your ecu? and is it just plug and play? I have the 93 mx6, OBD1. How did this ecu work for you?

That sounds like a good plan.
I'm not sure what I'd want for the ECU, but I'll have some time to think about it. The chip works great. The car was dyno'd with the VRIS in the 4 possible configurations, and the VRIS were flashed to open where the dyno plot torque curves cross over, so they're perfect. The car has torque all the way from 2K rpm to 7K.

Just so you know, you'll see more gain from doing the headers first, and then IM, especially if you get PaceSetter, or weld in a ball and socket joint instead of the flex joint. Do you have 2.25" exhaust? It will be best, until you go high compression, port, and hotter cams. Then you'd want to put on 2.5", for more poewr in high rpm, or get a cutout. You'd have power with 2.25", but the bigger exhaust would make a few more HP.
Good luck

2.5" exhaust will only build more power at higher RPM. 2.25" will have slightly less power in the top end but much better low end torque. If you're looking for a solid daily driver torque is where it's at. Don't get sucked into Jesse's pursuit of a 1/4hp so that he can pretend his car is faster than yours game.

Haha yes torque is the most important thing to me. I hate it when people walk around bragging about how much HP they have and when you look at the dyno, they dont even have a powerband until 6500 RPMs...and if 2.25 exhaust will help stretch my powerband then i might go with that. What headers would you do? Pacesetter sounds like junk so im tempted to go with the 80$ ebay ones.

I went with the MX-6 ebay ones and they are doing well but there was still alot of fitting. The MX-6 subframe and stuff are different so they didn't fit perfectly. I had to have a shop cut and bend and reweld them. Others have had an easier time than I did. I'm not sure if they bought something different than I did or what.

As far as the rest of the exhaust my experience is this...my first GS had a great big Ractive muffler on it with the standard 1-7/8" stock piping. I noticed that it was very sluggish int he middle but hit like a hammer at about 5000. I replaced it with a stock replacement muffler and it smothed the whole thing out really well. This was with the K8 engine. My current SE had stock exhaust when I got it but with the cat removed and I found it to be about the same as the previous GS. When I went to the ZE I did decided to go for the 2-1/4" piping and I have excellent torque at 3000rpm. Changing the exhaust on these engines really has a noticeable affect. I think there would be an easily noticeable difference between the 2.25" and 2.5" exhaust.

well i do have the mx6 so hopefully itll just bolt un up. So i have the 2.5L KLDE and you think i should try to do a 2.25"? I always thought that the rule of thumb was every liter of displacement should be 1".

There is lots of discussion on the forum over the years about exhaust size. There are those who disagree with me and those that agree. It's a question of what you're looking for. Some guys want the power to come on hard at 4500-5000rpm. I prefer it a bit smoother.

The thing with intake and exhaust, the length and size of the tube dictates the point at which peak power is produced. The stock 1-7/8" tubing is restrictive in the top end specifically to enhance the bottom end torque of the engine. Opening it up some moves the peak to a slightly higher rpm and gives good gains overall. Opening it up more gives similar overall gains but move the peak even further up the rpm range. If that's what you think you'll like then that's what you should do. I personally prefer to have as much power down low as I can...because that's where I spend most of my time and it's plenty powerful enough in the top end for me anyway.