Underdrive pully

[wednesdayslatest]

BTDC is before top dead centre, meaning right before the piston is at top dead centre(highest point of piston travel).

A quiet aftermarket exhaust can be done, Mi|<e(who commented earlier) has a 2.5 inch exhaust on his BPT that's quiet and could be considered sleeperish. Just get a nice resonator in there and it'll help.

okay IF i do upgrade the whole exhaust for my 1.6 now wouldnt 2.5 inch be a lot? lol i got a SOHC 1.6 dx civic and i got 2.5 on there HAHA cheap a-- performance manifold and downpipe for 60 bucks then i put straight pipe back to where the bracket is....it seems there was already 2.5 put in where it bends and the muffler is a 2 or 2.5 idk but its loud i got a stock muffler for it (i know itll still be loud due to the straight pipe but imma sell that civshit in the spring time to get more money for another 2nd car) but yeah i also heard 2in would be the best for a sohc like mine (mx3 not the civshit)...on the mx when i replaced the head i had to set up the piston and clean the top of them (using a long skinny flathead works too if the head is on the block) im still learning myself but i know a lot more then before i was able to redo the headgasket in two half days by myself but yeah i still dont get how to alter that to make it 14 and not 10 which is stock...... so yeah

[RobMinhas]

Yes, 2.5 is too large of a diamater for your 1.6 SOHC, it was just an example. I think 2" would probably do you the best but I'm not 100 percent sure there.

And by 14 instead of 10 that's the timing they're talking about. The easiest way to do that is you can find yourself a timing light, adjust the timing to 14 degrees rather then the 10 the stock is set to.

[Josh]

1.6L sohc and dohc use the same crank pulley. I would reference a manual first but I am like 95% sure.

2" would be perfect, and as long as you run a cat > resonator > to a muffler you should be fine. I would use a chamber style muffler and resonator vs a cherry bomb style though. a fart can on the back it will be loud but a chambered muffler will not be. so like a magnaflow.

It has been a while since I played with the B6 but there were 8 valve heads on the b6 in the 80's and if you can find one they made more power than the 16 valves as they flowed more air. Also all DOHC bottom end parts will swap into it, and from what I remember there was a higher compression miata engine that had like 9.3:1 vs 9:1 from the factory. another note is with the round ports they can be ported out very nicely and on the 1.6 it helps.

[wednesdayslatest]

damn not to side track but maybe im thinking it might be my intake manifold i might as well change it. what should i put a miata one right? any one inparticular? maybe i can frank this a little? (i thought about a miata head swap but im not sure)

[Josh]

a miata intake manifold would put the throttle body on the wrong side and point it at the strut tower. The only option you have is the one that came on it, or 323 manifold, but I am pretty sure they are the same. If you are going to go through that much trouble might as well change the engine to a BP.

[wednesdayslatest]

Yes, 2.5 is too large of a diamater for your 1.6 SOHC, it was just an example. I think 2" would probably do you the best but I'm not 100 percent sure there.

And by 14 instead of 10 that's the timing they're talking about. The easiest way to do that is you can find yourself a timing light, adjust the timing to 14 degrees rather then the 10 the stock is set to.

i do want to look into this timing light i looked just a little but im not sure exactly what the part would look like or what brand

[wednesdayslatest]

a miata intake manifold would put the throttle body on the wrong side and point it at the strut tower. The only option you have is the one that came on it, or 323 manifold, but I am pretty sure they are the same. If you are going to go through that much trouble might as well change the engine to a BP.

okay saying i dont swap the intake.....i still got a CTS problem that i fixed that litterally lags my car to the point where sometimes ill hit the gas and itll go unresponsive for a few seconds and then like turn back on. it was worse before when i fixed the sensor it was great but i dont know now....if i can just get this one issue to stop then ill be happy with it all....

who said they got a better flywheel for me? i dont think i need to change the clutch right away but i will buy a better flywheel off someone so when i DO it will be better when i do it....

i do want to look into a bpt swap i REALLY want that BPT GTR 210 stock hp turbo but apparently thats really rare and illegal maybe for MA but i hate these damn civic this city is FULL of them and they keep talkin s--- lol

oh and other then the stock MAF intake setup is there certain parts i should change out? i seen some people change out the MAF to the black on thats like a cylinder but its only for certain years? i got a 93...

[RobMinhas]

I don't know what brands are superior but I've used a snapon one before and it worked out well. Mi|<e adjusted my timing in maybe 45 seconds. Attach the leads to the battery and the conductive clamp to cylinder 1's spark plug wire. Just gonna crack the disty bolts and then adjust the disty until the timing light reads 14. TIghten bolts and voila, you're done.

I've got a BPT GTR, those things are quite rare but you can build your own BPT easily, most guys go that way. Source a BP engine(and trans since the G series is superior), then get yourself some BP26 camshafts, exhaust manifold and intake manifold(all can be sourced from clubprotege.com easily). Then remains the little turbo bits such as ECU(BP26 will work, goes fora bout $150 or you can go aftermarket) and the turbo, downpipe, oil lines, upgraded injectors.


Or you can stuff a BP in and bolt in another 30 or so HP, plus litle mods like exhaust, header, timing adjustment, etc. Not much of a point of investing in a SOHC B6.

[wednesdayslatest]

it might not be the manifold but i check the ODB thing it blinked 9 times same as before i replaced that sensor on the intake manifold and before i replaced the thermostat housing sensor the sensor on the back of the engine in the middle behind the head (whatever that one is) and the neutral safety switch apparently theres no backup light switch or something like that i had an issue before with that bad whatever it was i had the wrong sensor in the wrong spot off the front side of the trans block but there was supposed to be another sensor on it that doesnt seem to exist BUT the plug for it is still wired into the engine harness so idk but the car runs as long as i can get it to pass inspection then ill do all my upgrades whatever i can do then just run the miles up on it and swap the motor (its still a learning process for me)

[wednesdayslatest]

hmmmm okay i see if thats the case maybe i should just cut my losses right now and just put the headers since i already got them no turning back now. well i understand where your coming from on that but since im already doing it i just want to do some little things. i already spend mad money fixing up the car myself i crashed it and had to fix it smh but yeah i dont want to overhaul major upgrade it just enough to make it better and smoother to drive while i rack up the miles i guess its only got 127K with a head swap pretty much everything is new i still need to clean the engine though

[RobMinhas]

The B6 is a good and strong engine that will go for a long time if well taken care of. But if you're looking to make your car faster that's not too much of a good engine to go with. With massive machine work, adjusted timing, aftermarket ECU for a better power band, headers to exhaust being aftermarket, proper cold air intake, adjusted timing, fancy cam gears and valves and an older head(like Josh mentioned) you'd be hard pressed to get any more then 130HP from it, and it'll cost a lot.

[wednesdayslatest]

yeah. thats pretty much on the money huh lol well i mean i already wasted money on the parts might as well put them in i just want it to be faster then this SOHC civic i got other then that i really do want to do a swap but i just wanted to learn off this car the stuff i need to do or at least some things. i litterally fixed this car had it for 3 years i got it with a bad headgasket beat the s--- out of it because i was broke and had no money for a new radiator overheated the thing so many times and after all that and everything i fixed and the accident that wasnt my fault but i had to pay everything out of pocket to fix my own car....its still running strong only thing is that damn CTS

if it wasnt for that and the fact i did something really stupid there was a short on my marker lights/dash lights fuse.....i stupidly put a 40 amp in the 15 amp (no one explained that to me) yeah so my marker lights work even tho the wires are fried other then the electrical and cts problem the car should pass inspection finally after over a year maybe two.....but i dont wanna put the alt and sterio system in it till i pass inspection last thing i need is to get the car tow lol

and that civ s--- needs even more work then the mx but im bringing the mx to the shop hes going to do all my brake lines for me for 250 cuz the whole line is rusted (the rust from the gasket problem spewed all over the engine compartment and turned everything orange and got it all rusty...yeah big problem ive been slackin but for a while i was really broke now that i got the chance i wanna get everything i need to get and figure out everything before i go broke again and have no way to finish the job (oh yeah and we are all supposed to die on Friday LOL)