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Or you can also check the harnesses that plug into the back of the cluster to see if any of the wires spilt open from bending them and such. How easy is it to remove the clock and temp guage and put it into another cluster? How did you do it?

I've never done that but it might help knowing how you did in terms of figuring out what happened.

both the fuel and temp needles go straight to max.

its very easy to switch. theres basically 3 scews in each gauge then it pops out and you put it in the other one. the screws make the electrical contact between the circuit board and the gauges aswell as holding them in place.

i had the car running without all of the screws in place by accident. when i put them back in it wasnt working properly. im thinking because there was screws missing when power was flowing it overloaded the motors or something.

im getting about a 5v variance in voltage from the heat sensor when its cold to when its hot so im thinking its still in good shape. taking a voltage reading from the contacts on the actual temp gauge itself is also giving almost 5V difference from cold to hot which tells me something has to be wrong with the motors and not the sensor or wiring.

ive checked the connection on the plugs and the condition of the wires. they are all in good condition and i have tried cleaning the contacts with no help ither.

does anyone know the proper voltage readings for the heat sensor? or can someone measure for me if they get a chance and let me know?

loss of coolant is same for me except XTREME...I put in a new galon every couple weeks, possibly up to a month, rawrghh! I don't think it's something like a leak cuz nothing leaks on idle or while off, and I don't think it's water pump from reading this thread but I spose I could be wrong
sorry to put this back on coolant lol, but any suggestions????