Mooneggs wrote: Here's what I'm thinking for my list so far:
kl31 cammed ze with de valvetrain
k8 ecu with probinator chip
awr motor mounts front/rear (94 durometer) / mazdaspeed filled motor mounts for the sides
srd control arm bushings/engine mount bushings/ front rear tie bars
mx-3 transmission
Big Bore TB
exhaust - pacesetter or ssautochrome headers (undecided) to 2 1/4" piping
Millenia Alternator
A/C removal + smaller belt for the water pump and alternator.
I am keeping power steering
HEI mod
suspension?
flywheel?
But I have a few questions below:
I am wondering which flywheel to go with. I have read/heard that the mx-3 flywheel works well with the ze + mx-3 tranny. I'm currently using a fidanza flywheel with my kl01 cammed ze + 626 tranny and I like it but I'm wondering if a different setup would be more ideal. Advice please!
I'm also wondering what would be the best suspension setup. I've searched and there is alot of conflicting information just because everyone has different things they like. I was thinking about maybe the zx2 strut conversion with B+G lowering springs, or maybe the k sport coilovers. Advice please!
I currently do not have a UDP nor have I ever used one... would this be good to include in my list? are there any cons to installing this? what brand?
First of all, If you want ideas for autocross, look for post by ProtegeSTS. Losta info and very valuable information for you will reside in his posts. Too bad he's not around anymore.
DE valvetrain is a good idea. Cams, depends. For drag I'd hightly recommend the KL31's. For autocross, it's hard to say. I've heard the 31 cams have plenty of low end, but I know the 01 with it's lower peak torque have alot of power for autocross to basically to any course I've done so far in 2nd gear, using 3rd only on some long straights. However in both drag and autox, I've heard many complains about the gears being too short. A 4.11:1 geared tranny would probably be suitable for both cases. LSD would be a great idea as far as I've been told by autocrossers and draggers.
Good idea on the mounts and even getting and filling the MS side mounts. Control arm bushing should help for wheelhop too.
The only disadvantage to a bored out throttle body is sometimes theres issues setting it to idle perfectly, but it helps responce and top end power.
Millenia alternator is a good idea, but athough really only needed if your running a good amount of accessories. Apparently it takes about 1hp extra to run, but I've also heard that the car feels like it runs better and is more responsive.
Powersteering i highly recommend for autocross. It's nice to be able to keep one hand onthe wheel and the other working the shifter and possibly the ebrake. So much easier to literally throw the car around.
HEI mod + coil, yes
ECU, the Probinator would probably give you the better results, proper vris points and a more linear power output, the KL31/36's are more fuel efficient, but for performance, the Probinator is what you want. With that, just get the curved neck IM, it flows better and with the Probinator, the VRIS is no longer an issue.
flywheel, definitely. Having it rev up quicker would be good for acceleration. The fact that the revs will drop quicker so it may be a little trickier for autocrossing.
For suspension, i wouldn't do the Zx/2, those are basically OEM type replacement for lowering springs since putting on shorter springs would underdampen the struts. Any spring you choose would suffice, just good struts if what you want, ideally MazdaSpeed, if you can find then, or the Koni inserts. K-sport would probably be ideal, but getting them to this side of the pond will not be cheap.
UDP seems to be hit and miss, but for it to work, since you will not have a harmonic balancer would be to get the engine balanced, depending on how much you want to spend on the motor. I'm giving one a try. If you do, get either a rr-racing or an unorthodox.
Exhaust, either 2.25 or 2.5 I'd say go for 2.5 crush bend (mantrel will be expensive and hard to find a shop that does it) You'll want 2.5 for more top end. 2.25 will give you a bit more lower end torque sacrificing a bit of top end. People used to look for specifically 2.5" inner diameter and have it mantrel bent for best performance...i guess that has changed since everyone on here lately seems to be saying to go with 2.25". I've got 2.5" crush bent stainless.