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Ok, I adjusted the TPS. Problem still exists. I'm beginning to think it has something to do with the 02 sensor and the cat converter. On my zx2 i used to own, it would hesitate at low rpm, and it was the 02 sensor. It's doing the same thing in my mx3 now. Im guessing the 02 sensor is going bad. Also, i think there is junk coming loose in my converter. it's rattling just a tad. It's hesitating in all the gears, and it's not really pulling until i hit 4000rpm's... once i hit 4000rpm's, it pulls like it should. what do you guys think?

well if you are having the same problem i had, i got mine fixed today, i would start the car up and it would idle about 2000 then go down sometimes, then the going up and down crazy idle, fixed it today, top of the throttle body, the idle screw, tighten it in, my rpms are now at 900-1000rpm, i dunno if you allready did that but thats how i fixed mine.

Okie dokie... I'll be sure to do that. Matter of fact, I might go try it in just a sec.
What should my car idle at?

I would say a good idle would be around 650-800 rpms.

yea around there i tightened my idle screw all the way in it only went down to 900, so i prolly have a lil leak somewhere but ill take 900rpms then 2000rpm, but yea let me know if it worked.

OH I FOUND THIS PICTURE FOR YOU MAYBE IT WILL GIVE YOU A IDEA WHERE TO LOOK JUST IN CASE YOU DIDNT KNOW WHERE.

Went and turned the screw, all the way to the right. It only went to like 700. Once it went to 700, i gassed it, and as the needle came down, it went too far down, but then raised back to 700. then climed alittle to 900.
So i turned the screw to the left to raise the idle and it went to 900. (before when it went to 900 it fell back to 800. it's staying at 900 now. maybe i should do this again when it's not cold outside? it's about 40 to 45 degrees outside when i done it. what you guys think?

If you're trying to adjust your idle, you need to be in diagnostic mode.

1) Jump TEN and Ground in diagnostic connector
2) Adjust idle
3) Remove jumper wire
4) Shut off car

undoubtly i need to do some research. TEN?
Anyways, when i twisted the screw it was moving the idle. why do this?
not doubting what your saying, just wondering why be in diagnostic mode?

SmoothMX3 wrote:undoubtly i need to do some research. TEN?
Anyways, when i twisted the screw it was moving the idle. why do this?
not doubting what your saying, just wondering why be in diagnostic mode?

Because if you adjust the idle without being in diagnostic mode, once you shut the car off and turn it back on, the ECU will try to compensate so that the idle is what it was before you adjusted it.

Look at page B2-8 of the online shop manual.

"TEN" stands for "Test Engine"

Ohhh Ok... Thanks for the information man. I'm still soo noob with the mx-3, so sorry if i ask dumb questions.

see i didnt do mine in diagnostic mode, mine is working fine, but if you changed your idle and your car still wasnt warm yet then thats prolly why i would say its idle is changing off and on. Mine stays at 900-1000

Oh ok.. I'll see how it works before i mess with it again.

you might also want to check for vacuum leaks.

Even though i wasnt in dianostic mode, it still changed and stayed there. Now that the car warmed up, i could see where the idle was gonna be at. it's sittin between 6000-7000. Im gonna raise it just a tad. when going down the road, im still feeling that one thing where, saying im in 4th cruising... car feels like it's pulling, next thing you know it kinda feels like i let off the gas some, then pressed it back down. it does this pretty much the whole time. and i kept my foot in the same place and never let off or anything.

I've never been in dianostic mode when working on my car, and all my changes have stuck.

Jeremy