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wytbishop wrote:Something this expensive (even though it's a good deal, $1000 is still alot of money) would have to be available for an extended period of time. I would love to have a kit if it's everything you say it will be, but I won't be able to do it this year. If it's going to be available in 09' then yeah, I'll probably want one, but don't count me in if it has to be in the next few months.

It'll take me that long to trick my wife into believing I need them.

Just distract her with a shiny trinket...

LOL. The best thing to do is just not to tell them... My woman had a fit when I told her what I was up to, then got over it shortly.

I am working on making this available for a long period of time. I can check on making a kit for the rear that would also use an 11" rotor only, keeping the stock caliper.

projectmx wrote:I'm interested also... i really want a proportioning valve though cause i have awd and want to upgrade the rears a little also.

Also i heard that one of the break companies brakes have to be rebuilt often cause they aren't fully sealed well and dust and such gets in them often. does wildwood have this issue at all?

You may be worse off using an adjustable proportioning valve. The valve is the brake pressure modulator for front and rear brake bias. Upsetting the pressure difference might make the car very twitchy, especially in cornering or trail braking. You could make it so bad as to having the rear end lock up first, resulting in a very tail happy situation. This not what you would call well proportioned. What we do want, is a balance in braking creating the shortest stopping distance possible with very good pedal feel. There a few things that we could do to help rear brake bias to offset a more front biased car, typically when you use oversize rotors and 4pot calipers. We could use a larger disc and higher cf. brake pad in the rear which would increase rear bias. We could also change the rear caliper to a 2 piston. Another option is to shift weight to the rear or add a balast. I don't expect to have a heavily front biased brake setup on the front, only a marginal increase in brake torque. Of course it also depends on the friction material being used as well (brake pad).

I have not seen any documented proof of Wilwoods calipers failing or in need of rebuilding after so many yrs. In fact, I've seen these calipers hold up to some pretty heavty abuse without any fail.

Flyer wrote:

wytbishop wrote:Something this expensive (even though it's a good deal, $1000 is still alot of money) would have to be available for an extended period of time. I would love to have a kit if it's everything you say it will be, but I won't be able to do it this year. If it's going to be available in 09' then yeah, I'll probably want one, but don't count me in if it has to be in the next few months.

It'll take me that long to trick my wife into believing I need them.

Just distract her with a shiny trinket...

I used that one already...can't go to the well too often. The last shiney trinket cost twice as much as the car I just bought.

jaydog5678 wrote: You may be worse off using an adjustable proportioning valve. The valve is the brake pressure modulator for front and rear brake bias. Upsetting the pressure difference might make the car very twitchy, especially in cornering or trail braking. You could make it so bad as to having the rear end lock up first, resulting in a very tail happy situation. This not what you would call well proportioned. What we do want, is a balance in braking creating the shortest stopping distance possible with very good pedal feel. There a few things that we could do to help rear brake bias to offset a more front biased car, typically when you use oversize rotors and 4pot calipers. We could use a larger disc and higher cf. brake pad in the rear which would increase rear bias. We could also change the rear caliper to a 2 piston. Another option is to shift weight to the rear or add a balast. I don't expect to have a heavily front biased brake setup on the front, only a marginal increase in brake torque. Of course it also depends on the friction material being used as well (brake pad).

I have not seen any documented proof of Wilwoods calipers failing or in need of rebuilding after so many yrs. In fact, I've seen these calipers hold up to some pretty heavty abuse without any fail.

Problem Is i have heavily changed the weight distribution in the car, changed the weight in general, changed the brakes in the rear, and added a lot of power in the rear where there originally was no power so i'd think that the entire breaking system is now a bit off

I would be in for a set especially if you end up doing the rears also

im in for everything good and affordable

in like gin.

A month later....Any update?

I have not been here for awhile but....yes, I'm still working on this.

As far as production kit being made, I could do that but there is one small problem with using 11" rotors and Willwoods. The Mx-3 spindle will not easily adapt a Willwood caliper, in fact it wont without modification to the spindle. It requires machining/cutting the spindle so that the caliper will be positioned over the rotor correctly. I should have some pictures as soon as the parts are ready from the machine shop.

someone made them fit by making new holes welding over the old ones and adding some spacers

the kit will prolly be a fair price will it come with everything needed to install maybe at least some detailed instructions on what kind of mods we might have to do to make them fit properly

projectmx wrote:someone made them fit by making new holes welding over the old ones and adding some spacers

I saw another guy on club protege, probably the same one who did that. The problem is, when welding to cast iron, it makes it brittle and could possibly break. My machinist strictly advised me not to weld on to cast iron. I believe you can braze on to cast iron, but do not weld it...ever. I'm not going to take that chance, especially with brakes.

Demonicdst wrote:the kit will prolly be a fair price will it come with everything needed to install maybe at least some detailed instructions on what kind of mods we might have to do to make them fit properly

You could get all the parts easily to make a bigger brake kit, but at this point, your basically on your own to fit them to the Mx-3 spindle. That's the problem with using 11" rotors. Also, these rotors and calipers that I'm using will not clear a stock 15" wheel, something I had hoped for. They will however fit select aftermarket 15" + wheels. It depends on the offset of the wheel. Most likely a 35 ET will fit and a 40 ET might be cutting it close with a 15" wheel.

Right now, I've estimated the cost of just parts at around $830-900 U.S. That includes rotors/hats, calipers, pads, fittings, and brake lines. The price could vary based on shipping cost and pad options. This price does not include modification to the spindle. I'm spending roughly $200-280 just so the calipers can mount to the spindle.

Here are the most recent pics.

nice!!!!!!!!!

If you would do a 60-0, or better, 100-0 test between stock, and your setup, to prove it's worth it, I'd be interested.