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I will vouch for it, they do screw in. Piston is basically a giant flat head screw. I did it before and it was a pain in the a-- trying to screw it in. I gave up and said screw it and just loosened the bleeder and squeezed the piston in. For some reason it would just barely move when i screwed it. (dang that sounds terrible) Of course I had to bleed them then but its not bad to cycle some new fluid into the system once in a while anyways.

mine screwed in easily with needle nose pliers

Again with C-Clamp it worked great and i didnt have to bleed. I just opend the cap under the hood...

can u pls compile me a straight list of tools i need to do the rear brakes?

12mm combination wrench?
c-clamp?
etc... ?

thanks

Ok list of tools...

2 bottles of advil (if they havent been touched in awhile)

14mm socket
12mm socket
rubber mallet
decent sized hammer

pair of latex gloves....
can of brake cleaner (please clean your discs befor einstall dont kill yourself)
can of pb blaster
anti seize

remove lugnuts
remove tire
take out the 12mm bolt on the top of the caliper
pull caliper all the way back so that only the pads are exposed.
remove pads
remove two 14mm bolts on the backside of the rotor that is the other 1/2 of the caliper
for me to do this i had to use a 14mm wrench and hammer on it.
Make sure your not a moron like myself and hit it the wrong way... I snapped a bolt and now im going to have to get a torch and cut it out and buy a new caliper most likely....

anyways....
remove rotor give it a few good wacks with the mallet and it should want to fall off.
put some anti seize on the backing of your hub, and then on the (forgot what they are called excuse me) the bolts your lug nuts go onto. align holes on rotor, put your 2nd half on with the 2x14mm bolts, slide other half of caliper on put the 12mm bolt back in.

TA DA rear rotor installation.

Ohh... the pads... this is hard...

slide the pads in....

*claps happily*

I just learned the trick last weekend on tough bolts. If you find theyre tough to turn counter clockwise initially, tighten them a little bit, then try again. Strange but it works.

Its not so strange, its just the way they are rusted in. Cutting the bolts worked well for me... not to mention to find out that the caliper was rusting more then it was working was well worth cutting it up anyways.

quick question. im trying to remove my rear pads/rotors on a 92 GS . theres not enough slack in the brake line to rotate the caliper.

Does this mean i have to disconnect the break line ? letting some bleed out? i've never touched my brakes or brake fluid before. so can i plug the hose back up some way to stop it?

help a newbie out =)

Never mind. i got it . mowambi said it before. to get the slack you need, you can just hammer out the metal clip holding the brake line to the bracket.

Any good alternative ways of retracting the brake piston? I don't have the tool. my cheap needle nose pliers couldn't hack it.

Answer: a big wrench that fits the 2 groves.