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Im confused if you have to mash the brakes even on the streets how do you blame it on the synthetic fluid? What are the temp readings at the calipers and lines? what is your MC cylinder diameter to your Caliper diameter? Could it be something as simple as a booster problem? What size are your tires?

I blame the fluid because the mushy pedal feeling. There must be air in the system. I had the same problem last year and after bleeding and bleeding it got much better.
I have no temp readings. The calipers are not seized if you mean that.
MBC is stock and so are caliper and brake diameter.
I don't think it's a booster problem. But if it dosen't help changing the fluid, it may be the problem.
Tires on thrack are 195/55R15 Bridgestone RE540S R-tires.

I have a slightly mushy pedal also. I can't blame my fluid though, because it's still mushy when cold. Also, I know for a fact there's no air in it. I've got speed bleeders, and I've bled the hell out of them.

It wasn't as mushy when the pads were new, but now it is again. What I'm thinking is I noticed on the online manual, there's a pedal adjustment. I'm going to try to adjust for a little more rod travel and see if that fixes it some.

My next course of action after that will be to check the check valve on the vacuum line.

Changed the whole system with new fluid today, and the pedal is still mushy. I have to give more than 40% of pedal pressure to get any brake pressure. And when I push the pedal with full force, the pedal feels mushy, but the cars stops very quickly when the pads are warmed up and I can lock the wheels (ABS not working).

Gonna look if I can find that brake pedal adjuster.

Today I found the problem why the brakes sucks... The pads are not even worn. I think it's because the caliper flex during hard braking.

Is that the front where the caliper comes in half? I'd guess it has something to do with the bolt down point not snugging the metal flush.

Macen wrote:I'm a bit disapointed at my Hawk HPS pads. After two track meets they are almost gone. I like the brake force they give, but now when there's 1/4 left on the pad, they are worthless.

Will the HP Plus last longer? Is there any better option for our cars?

I use the pads on plain Brembo discs, SS brake lines and ATE Super Blue brake fluid.

old thread I know, but they are not track pads. They are street perfomance/autocross.

silentbob: True. But after I looked at the pads yesterday, I'm not disaponted at the pads anymore. It's the caliper's "slide bolts" (don't know the correct word) that is seized. The piston pushes the inner pad, but the caliper dosen't slide as it should.

Pull em
Pull off the rubber end piece
Degrease the crap outa the slide bolt holes
Local Parts store (High Temp Brake Grease)
Sand the bolts lightly to remove rust? and to better hold the grease

Reassemble...


BTW M8.... ALWAYS change your brake fluid ASAP after a Trackday... your going to boil the fluid and even if you don't Track driving is VERY hard on brake fluid..

Each line in our cars holds a certain amount of fluid. Next time you bleed out your brakes use the other color of the ATE either amber or blue...

Measure the amount of the fluid in the line and then you'll know how much you need to replace.. I replace 50% of the fluid from the rear lines and most or all of the fluid from the fronts.

In my accord I replaced 75ml of fluid for the rears (5 full length, slow pumps) after every track day... and I never had a problem with squishy or lost brakes from boiled fluid..

Finally my front brakes are just like I want them. I can lock the brakes without any problem and the brake power is great.

I went back to Ferodo Premier pads ($40). I bought heat resistant grease to put on the slide bolts, and now the caliper works like it should.