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I don't think wires are my problem right now, but even so, I have other things that take priority over them.

I need my engine to run! The car doesn't even want to start anymore. It started for me the other morning for a few seconds. Later in the day it did the same thing. I put an external ignition module on yesterday to see if that was the problem, and it wouldn't start. Switched back, and it did, once, for a few seconds.

Today I got it to start for a couple seconds with the stock module, then switched back to HEI module and it started for a couple seconds after a few tries. Switched back.

I think it's my coil, but I could be wrong. I don't hear the fuel system pressurizing all the time, but I hear the fuel pump relay click on and off with the ignition switch. I opened the diagnosis box and wired the fuel pump to ground for a couple seconds and heard it pumping, so I'm a bit stumped.

Thoughts?

I basically have the same problem lol XD

My mechanic suggested that, since I'm getting crank angle sensor codes, I might be wise to change my crank angle sensor before messing around with all this other stuff.

Your problems sound very familiar, I've had my MX3 about six months, had stalling problems, most times would restart but one time took 20 minutes, idle surging, sometimes rpm would surge on the highway, I thought it was the tranny. Got this car at an auction and had no idea what I had gotten into, I was getting really frustrated, finally realized the problem was happening when temp guage was somewhere between cold and normal op temp. After hearing you have this problem I can't believe you have'nt looking into new temp sensors. I ended up replacing all 3 temp sensors on my 1.8 v6 and now its doing great. If I were you that would be the next thing I would check. Go to a auto parts store, save some money, I got mine at Autozone. See my post - low coolant level to see more.

What CEL codes were you getting?

I wonder if I could still be getting codes 3 and 4 from this issue.

tehbrookzorz wrote:According to one of the MX-3 members, oil in the plug wells could lead to some sort of ignition failure. What would fail, and if so, can the full HEI conversion fix it? Has anybody had luck with this conversion?

I'm going to pull of the valve covers and replace the gaskets, and I'm going to change the intake manifold gaskets at the same time. This will at least prevent further oil leaking into the plug wells. I may replace the plugs but the wires list for 200+ for some reason. Any advice would be appreciated.

Of course the oil in the plug wells could have an adverse effect. What's probably happening is that the plug is shorting itself out through it's plug cap giving drastic lower power indications. Not 100% sure if this constant shorting could lead to ignition failure but imagine anything is possible when it comes to electrical like that. Your solution to replace the VC gaskets is sound. You may need to replace your plug wires if this condition wasn't caught in time since you may have seriously deteriorated the plug cap shielding. OEM (NGK) wire sets are quite could and there are some after market types that are quite good. Past posts via a search will reveal membership's preferences.
A full HEI conversion may be in order if indeed you did fry those components in the disty. Your Q's about HEI conversions have already been thoroughly covered in previous posts and threads....once again do a search for that particular info.
Order of business - VC gaskets, possible plug wires and possible HEI conversion...one step each time to confirm.

Have you replaced the temp sensors? my mx3 had similar problems, I spent several months and replaced several things before I replaced all three of my temp sensors and now it runs like a normal car again.

Sometimes I look back, and can not believe my own idiocy.

What was the solution?

Short answer: Had to resolve all vacuum leaks, fix coolant leak to crank sensor connector, replace distributor, reset base timing, reset tps, reset iac.



Later found broken coolant temperature sensor wire in engine harness.

Hopeing I can get a lil help myself I've got just a standard GS no mods.except gutting the converter and putting on 17in. rims. Stupid plastic radaitor went bad went to leaking at the seams so I just replaced that today fig.ed while I was at it would go ahead and replace thermostat and clead the T.B. since it sat for 2 or 3 months waiting on me to get the loot to fix it got thermostat and installed it yesterday thinking my radiator would be in went ahead and sprayed the T.B. and come to find out they wouldn't let me get the part untill today so it sat over night sprayed and unran ok here's my prob.Fixed the cooling system prob.s even replaced that lil do not remove cap on the canister on the raditor put everything back together filled up the antifreeze and fired up the car took a min. due to the overnight spray sit finally got it running and it won't idle right constantly surges at idle between 1000-2000 rpm. and when I first crank it up it revs up to 3000 and settels and starts surgeing.OK here's the kicker when I first cranked it from it's 3 month sit it of course took a min. to get going but after I got it running it did perfect at idle did a good constant smooth idle @ 1500 cold and went on down to about 600 warm did fine but after the install was when I got this idle prob.I must say even with the idle as screwy as it is it runs fine no stall no buck no CE light no nothing just haulls a--.Couldn't fig. what the hell was going on so as a last result called up mazda they told me to remove the T.B. and clean it thurolly I asked them about the T.B. Plate gaskets they told me they couldn't get them to just use gaskett maker So I went through the painstakeing process of removeing the T.B. and cleaning it.Made it worse. Before removal I could remove the PCV valve and it would idle fine so I cleaned that shook it rattled fine put it back in and it still would surge.Remove the oil cap while running would go to idleing fine which is weird cuz normally when I remove the cap while it's running it cutts off.Tried to ajust the screw at the top of the T.B. and no differance.I'm at my witts end with this PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP!!!! THANKS IN ADVANCE

Try topping off the coolant while it's running, just after the thermostat opens. You could have a bubble in the system (in the IAC), if so, it's not reading right.
By the way, punctuation makes it alot easier to read, and people won't give up before reading it all. I almost did.

Aren't you supposed to run the throttle body cleaner through while the car is running, so it can burn off the junk that you dissolve? I'd try doing that, just to see if some of the contaminates didn't clog somewhere in the intake tract or in a vacuum or pcv line.

Definitely check the cooling system for air pockets that may have worked their way up and could be throwing off the sensors. Bleeding the cooling system can be a royal pain.

Beyond that, maybe there is a vacuum leak. The intake tube can become pretty brittle with age and it's possible you may have opened a crack when you removed it to access the throttle body. This can cause some pretty funky idle and drivability problems.

Good luck.

By the way, congrats on pulling up one of my first threads.

Thanks I'll try that hopefully it's not something serious,and yes I have tried to run the car while spraying it but with out the pipe on it won't even start.

Right, I'm used to seeing my tech do the throttle body clean on MAP sensor equipped cars. I think there's a way around that.