deck help please!!!

kevio180 · Post by **kevio180** » January 6th, 2006, 8:58 pm

I found the wire and redone my wire. Nothing much changed tho, lol, guess I may have to buy a noise filter. but the way i listen to music i can't really hear it, level 10 on any system isn't really loud but that can block the noise off completly.

my question is now can it blow up my deck? if not, I don't really mind anymore, thanks

kevio180 · Post by **kevio180** » January 7th, 2006, 3:31 pm

Is this what the noise filter looks like?

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » January 7th, 2006, 10:42 pm

RoundTop wrote:I simply used the ground from the factory deck with mine. I cut the end and spliced the wires, then soldered it together for a good connection and then taped the end.

(I soldered all my deck wires to the harness... makes for nice good connections)

That's fine. But I would keep wires marked for chasiss ground connected to the cars chassis and the ones marked negative power should be connected to the power harness.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » January 7th, 2006, 10:48 pm

kevio180 wrote:Is this what the noise filter looks like?

Where is that device from? Looks like it's got 4 wires? Power In and radio? Make sure it's rated to handle the system's power requirements

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » January 7th, 2006, 11:12 pm

RoundTop wrote:Wire nuts are good until you have 10 in a small space... then they suck, and they get caught on things.

Inline soldering (so the wires look strait) and wrapping means a smaller bundle, so easier to do.

After I did that I taped all my wires together too so they are pretty, won't get caught on anything, and don't take up much room.

One warning: the ground wire is a larger gauge wire than the deck wires, so if you are using a stripper instead of a blade, watch out for the thickness.

Aside: I'm enjoying my new Pioneer DEH-P4600MP. For $150 CDN it is nice. (Especially since I'm running stock speakers in the rear and decent 6.5s in the front, why spend more when I would have to put more money into the rest of it to make a difference)

I agree and good advice on the inline soldering

about the comment of a lot of wire nuts. After a handfull in the same area it begins to get busy for sure, but it is a good alternative to soldering. BTW - small wire nuts are also available.

Also agree that an audio system is only as good as the weakest component, so there is no need to overspend on the others.

kevio180 · Post by **kevio180** » January 8th, 2006, 4:04 pm

that is from Circut city/the source, its $18.99. I'm getting a new alternator put in next weekend and I will see if it still make that noise. My alternator is killing me, no battary charge, so im charging it everynight, lol

mr1in6billion · Post by **mr1in6billion** » January 8th, 2006, 5:16 pm

kevio180 wrote:My alternator is killing me, no battary charge, so im charging it everynight, lol

Be sure to check your battery too. When batteries get old they can start to slowly discharge themselves overnight.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » January 8th, 2006, 5:44 pm

kevio180 wrote:that is from Circut city/the source, its $18.99. I'm getting a new alternator put in next weekend and I will see if it still make that noise. My alternator is killing me, no battary charge, so im charging it everynight, lol

OK, that's a "ground loop" noise Isolator. It's used between the head unit/deck audio out and power amp.

Alternators will always produce the wining noise. The trick is not to introduce it in the low level audio.

Some steps one can take to reduce alt. noise:

A.) Ground loop - is created when audio ground is established at more than one location - Always connect to reference ground point to eliminate ground loops.
B.) Only use shielded audio cable for low level audio from head unit to power AMP. The ground connection closest to this point becomes the ground reference point!
C.) Avoid using the OEM ground wire for high power AMPs.

to
D.) Keep Ground wires short.
E.) Do not use the same bolt to ground more than one High Power AMP wire.
F.) Set the levels correctly. Drive the low power signal at 75-80% into the power AMP and then andjust power gain AMP for max performance.

Some of those steps above will contradict what I and some of you have posted earlier, but it really applies and make a big difference with high power systems.

In summary if noise is isolated before it is fed to the power AMPs it will not be amplified!

kevio180 · Post by **kevio180** » January 8th, 2006, 11:44 pm

I know this isn't to do with my original question, but my car is stalling while driving. Can a dead battary cause the car to die while driving?

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » January 9th, 2006, 12:35 am

Yes, especially since the alternator is not working. The battery will eventually not have enough energy to keep the car running.

kevio180 · Post by **kevio180** » January 9th, 2006, 8:53 am

OMG, my car is killing me, charged for a whole night and still nothing, somthing is so wrong with it, im taking it into the shop tonight and see what happens