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Posted: February 24th, 2005, 4:28 pm
by MZein
The following is what I've done so far, please tell me if it makes sense:

(From FSM test outlines- Quoted by BuGs)

-checked for continuity from ECU 2E to W (at distributor) = There is contiuity.

-checked for good voltage (0-5 Volts) at terminal 2E and 2G (At ECU) with ignition ON = Using a Multimeter there is about 11.5 Volts at both at 2E and 2G.

Today I ordered an ECU from Hollywood at 842 Eastern Ave. (Toronto), to replace my ECU.

I also got an IGNITER from a Mazda Protege from a Junk Yard for $6.00 to see if mine was the cause for the car not starting (and no spark at ignition coil). I put it in and still there is no spark at IGNITION COIL! So can't be IGNITER.

FYI- I checked the ignition coil for correct primary and secondary resistance which were correct according to Chilton's Manual. I have voltage and ground at IGNITER and IGNITION coil terminals (with ignition ON).

I highly doubt it's the Distributor because the previous owner changed it in SEP. '04.

Any advice on this is greatly appreciated.

Note: In the last 1 month I have pushed started the car more than 5 times in one week, and then it just didn't start using this method --- after that it just ran for 2 seconds then shut off. Then Starter went bad, it was replaced, and then it didn't start again.

Thanks in advance.

Posted: February 24th, 2005, 4:45 pm
by Tunes67
Might be prudent to clean all of your electrical connections and maybe beef up your ground wires as well. Just a thought..

Tunes67

Posted: February 24th, 2005, 6:08 pm
by jimishadow
this may sound stupid,is you dist turning?if no chec timing belt