lower rear tie bar

[MX3-Freak]

Alright, thanks I remember that the nut was 17 mm, so I got the right one. Only problem is my 17 mm socket only comes in the "medium" fitting, so I have to use 11/16 for my torque wrench .

[perhapsadingo8yerbaby]

Yeah I hear that. I ended up getting a 1/2" drive metric deep socket set some time back. If needed, as a cheaper alternative, you could always buy a 1/2">3/8" reducer for your t-wrench or a single 17mm, 1/2" drive socket- in each case the cost is around $4 or $5. That's if the 11/16" isn't giving a tight enough fit over the nut.

[Baker]

Here's a picture of a GS tie bar on an RS if anyone still needs it.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/bakermx3

Hopefully I put it in right.

[MX3-Freak]

Not sure if anyone needs to know this, but I finally got my homemade tie bar on. basically it is a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum shaped like a square "C". I could barely bend the bar either torsionaly or horizontally after cutting it to length. Here are a few pics:
<img src="http://img68.photobucket.com/albums/v20 ... 04_035.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://img68.photobucket.com/albums/v20 ... 04_046.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://img68.photobucket.com/albums/v20 ... 04_045.jpg" alt=" - " />

The difference is very noticable. Doesn't really change the ride, rather the rear of the car feels more solid during hard cornering... for $7 I can't complain.

[perhapsadingo8yerbaby]

Cool & can't beat the price.

[Casino]

nice work man that gives me ideas

[mdavis]

Originally posted by MX3-Freak:
So no one wants to tell me I'm right, wrong, ¿stupid? Lol...I would really like to know, because I came up with it as I was typing, and could do that really easily if I reaped any benefits. (and please, don't tell me about weight, because I usually drive alone, and a 2 lb pipe means nothing to me).

just get an oem one cheap from a wrecker.. only the polished srd one is $100.. but it looks cool

[jplar]

Originally posted by MX3-Freak:
Not sure if anyone needs to know this, but I finally got my homemade tie bar on. basically it is a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum shaped like a square "C". I could barely bend the bar either torsionaly or horizontally after cutting it to length.

Originally posted by MX3-Freak:
a 2 lb pipe means nothing to me).

Any particular reason you used the bar with the specs it has? Would a lighter/heavier and/or thicker/thinner bar make any difference? Thanks!

[MX3-Freak]

Well, since I have nothing to compare this bar to (that has been installed on an mx) for strength when held in your hand, I really can't say much. The bar actually weighed less then 2lbs. When I fist said that, I had steel pipe in my head; not aluminum bar.

A steel tube the same length will be much stronger torsionally and (?)vertically(?). However, the weight will be much greater. If you want to use aluminum, I would recomend 1/4" - 7/16" thick (if they make that size)in a "C" shape as I have. As I said, I used 1/4" and it preforms great. I really wouldnt want anything much heavier gauge; the ride got a bit rougher, and I'm on stock wheels and springs... Also, there was only enough bolt left to get the nut flush with the end - another reason to stay thinner.

If worst comes to worst, you could alwats get a wider bar then half inch. This would give you a tad bit more strength without interference.

Sorry for the long post...all I really wanted to say was there was no particular reason I chose this bar other then being rational (for lack of a better term).

<small>[ July 02, 2004, 11:44 PM: Message edited by: MX3-Freak ]</small>