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i didnt have to remove any braces, just drive ur car up on ramps and get underneath it, i had plenty of room to reach up and change teh o2 this way.

There might be a drawback to the one wire being there is no heater to keep the sensor warm at idle. Omaha on PT has a good write up on this topic. Seems like the 2 or 3 wire conversion might be the way to go, seeing how they have a heater.

iv had the one wire conversion now for over 3months now and dont have any problems, not having a built in heater isnt a problem bc even on the coldest days the longest itll take the o2 sensor to warm up is 2min compared to the stock one of 30seconds, on average though it takes like 45seconds. all i know is for half the price and the little trouble it takes i have no problems and would reccomend it to anyone

yo!buff1110 i see that ur from jersey also, where is Howell, we should set up a meet for the tri-state this coming spring.

howell is in central, by jackson,point pleasant, freehold, manasquan, wall, lakewood. yea definately hit me up well get together email me or something

Originally posted by Buff1110:
howell is in central, by jackson,point pleasant, freehold, manasquan, wall, lakewood. yea definately hit me up well get together email me or something

i'm down for a meet. i'm up in edison, near new brunswick.

(i wonder how long it takes until a moderator moves this to a different section)

I think you could skip the soldering section of this install. The wire material for the O2 sensor does not solder. I'm not sure what its made up of, but I do know solder doesn't adhere to it. There are two other reasons why I wouldn't bother with the solder-

1. When you buy an all ready wired O2 sensor they are just crimped with no solder. Good enough for them, good enough for me

2. The heat from the exhaust will most likely melt the solder you spent so much time doing.

It is a good idea to heatshrink the connection though. Keeps any moisture from corroding the connection.

I would never poo-poo using a good silver content solder. It'll do more to prevent corrosion than a piece of heatshrink, which is still prone to water intrusion. A good electronic flux should help the solder penetrate any problem metals sufficiently. The silver content will also aid in lowering the resistance of the connection so the voltage will stay true.

I would be more than down for a NY meet if anyone else is interested

OK I am having some problems with the o2 sensors. Installation went fine. Weconnected the blue wires from the wire harness to the black wire from the new o2 sensors. Put everything back together. Started the car, it idled at 2000rpm, and we adjusted it to 1200rpm. Seemed to idle just fine, let idle for 3 min. Drove 1 and a hlaf minutes down driveway, then got on the road. noticed a drop in power. I had to floor the pedal to get it moving. Then if I cam to a stop the car would idle at 1000 for half a second then stalled on us. Any ideas why this happened???

Did you accidentally disconnect a vacuum hose and not reconnect it?

As far as i know all the hoses are connected right, basically my car is running exactly the same as it did before i did this... which sucks...
ok one thing that happened was this... which sholnd't make a huge difference but anyways, when we were conneting the o2 sensors to the harness we forgot the heat shrink.. so because we already crimped them together we coun'dt un crimp them so we cut the blue wires again,.... did the heat shrink thing.. then reconnected them twisted the wires together tightly could that have done it? other then that i dont know what else to do.. thes cars are so damn expensive

The problems you're talking about aren't indicitive of a bad O2 sensor. That's why I asked about vacuum. A bad O2 will just make you use up more gas than a well tuned MX-3. It shouldn't make your car die, loose dramatic amounts of power (maybe a few HP, but not dramatic), and idle wierd. It has to be something else.

Hmm ok, how would i check the vacuum hoses?? is there sumthing ic ould spray around the hoses to see if there is a leak?

Also, the car has stopped dieing and stalling out on me... now what it does is idles erraticly between 1000 and 1500.. very weird... and annoying.. not so much power loss anymore either... im confused.

<small>[ March 29, 2004, 12:58 PM: Message edited by: bradmx32003 ]</small>

Ok well I found that the accordian like hose had alot of cracks so i duct taped the hell outta it and it helped a lil but i do get power loss still and the idle is all weird.. alwys going up and down between 1000 and 1500rpm.. any more thoughts?