High Output Alternator

[BumpNGlow]

ok sniper, thanks for the info. I contacted Ohio Generator via email, but I haven't gotten a respone yet. I will call them sometime in the next couple of days. Now I have a few questions:<BR>When you say "0/1 gauge power & ground for starters untill you can get the alternator," do you mean for the amp, or the battery?<BR>Also, when you talk about getting relays and stuff between 2 batteries, that doesn't apply to me. Has I have stated before, I will only be running <B>1</B> battery and <B>1</B> alternator. But once again, thanks for all the help

[BumpNGlow]

abyss - I think I mentioned before that the competition level I am competing at is 1 sub, 1 battery, and 1 alt. But thinks for postin.<P>keymaker -- How do I go about refitting a delco remy? Where can I get one of these, etc. Any info would be very helpful.<BR>Also, I know not to ground my amps to my battery, I was just trying to clarify his advice. Thanks for the input.

[loudsubz]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by keymaker:<BR><STRONG>Also <BR>dont ever run your ground from the amp clear to the battery<BR>Ground it as close to the amp as you can<P></STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Theres nothing wrong with running the ground all the way back to the battery, it just means your doign more work.<P>If you really wanted to you could run a 1/0 awg from the battery to the amps, then back to the battery. It wont hurt anything cause it acts the same as if you ground it to the metal.<P>Just clearing things up. Only thing your doing is spending more money on wire and possibly drilling.

[Sonicxtacy02]

there may be nothing wrong with it... but arent you suppose to make your ground as short as possible? [img]shrug.gif"%20border="0[/img]

[loudsubz]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Sonicxtacy02:<BR><STRONG>there may be nothing wrong with it... but arent you suppose to make your ground as short as possible? [img]shrug.gif"%20border="0[/img]</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>What do you think the Chasis of the car is.

[Sonicxtacy02]

um if that was to me, it had nothing to do with what i was saying. To prevent unneccessary interference, the ground SHOULD be kept as short as possible

[loudsubz]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Sonicxtacy02:<BR><STRONG>um if that was to me, it had nothing to do with what i was saying. To prevent unneccessary interference, the ground SHOULD be kept as short as possible</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Running the ground back to the battery would be fine, no interference. It can be done and is just as good as using the chasis.

[BumpNGlow]

the ground doen't have to be short, it is usually kept shorter, just because its cheaper, and it is a LIL safer -- but it doesn't make too much of a difference. You are probably thinking about fusing your power close(16 in. usually). But anyways, getting off topic....

[tk1138]

Here's kind of a crazy idea for keeping the lights from dimming: get some REALLY BIG voltage regulators. Basicly they're three terminal devices that would keep your lights at 12V as long as the supply was 12.7V or greater. This might work as long as your battery voltage is high enough. If your battery runs at 13V, and you can't find anything like this I could probably make some for you for matterial costs. If you've got a lot of money to spend you could get someone to engineer a switching power supply that would keep your lights ABSOLUTLY the same down to say 7V battery.<P>As for running a ground back to the battery, using some sheilding to reduce interference might be a good idea. Twisted pair technology is really a cool idea, and not to hard, or bad looking. Co-ax of that caliber would be cheaper to make yourself, but would probably look really bad.<P>Mmmmm, I love E&M<BR>tk1138