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I think my oxygen sensor is going bad too. On my MAF sensor the wires were messed up and it wouldn't run well at all, why rpms would drop really fast when I let off the gas. I went to a shop to get my timing belt done and they fixed the MAF with some epoxy for $40. That's fixed, but still the idle just sometimes wants to jump around. I want to get an aftermarket ignition to see if that'll fix it. I've been told that it might be my alternator numerous times, however I replaced it recently and its still good. This leads me to believe what I read about the 4cyl. alternator not being strong enough. Maybe its sub par just like the clutch.

Look at this: <A HREF="http://members.attcanada.ca/~dragon64/junk.html" TARGET=_blank>http://members.attcanada.ca/~dragon64/j ... </A><BR>It has the alternator thing I was talking about, and some other cool stuff.

so i was driving yesterday , and i found that when its starts flutting up and down, if i let my clutch out until it almost stalls , then slowly put it back in the idle goes to 900 and does;t move <BR>confusing as hell...<BR>any thoughts?

could it be your chip? cause i've noticed in my my idle will go up if i flip the parking lights on and off really quick

alright, I have this same problem.....and I was thinking last night (after it started doing it again, and hadn't done it in like 4 months).....could this maybe be because of the weak ground connections and wires the engine has?? I mean, it only does it when you press the brakes.....and at the same time, the headlights dim immensily. <P>Could this be a valid idea, or am I just thinking too much again?? lol

I got that prob when my battery is gone.<P>Lost all electricity, and reset the ECU. Have your car stop because of cold? Have you let it way to long without running?<P>My 2 cents.

we had a warm day here today ...so i was driving around with my windows down , and the heater off finally , and the idle only messed up about 3 times , and only for a little bit.. but its night time now , and the car is running like crap again because its cold now ... <BR>i think the air temp has something to do with it .. <BR>maybe ...<BR>still looking

try by reseting your ecu by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery and putting you foot on the brake for thirty seconds,if the problem is still there try recharge or buy a new battery bigger amps if you have a sub

i had my ecu reset last week when i took my car in to get the codes checked ... you think its the alternator?

I have started to have the same problem within the last month or so.. Ahhhhh! I have had the car checked out by 5 different places and they all are baffeled. Everything checkes out good each time. [img]shrug.gif"%20border="0[/img] And comming from someone who actually has their oil changed about 700-800 mi before it is due religously, I am going nuts! So if you find out what it is PPPLLLZZZ let me know!

could it seriously be the ground wires in the motor?? I noticed mine only does it when the head lights are on and I hit the brakes....<P>Doesn't do it when the lights are off. When I get some money, I'm gonna buy that Aerospeed ground wire kit.....and see if that fixes it. <P>I've tried resetting the ecu.....messed with the idle screw.....everything, and nothing works... But it does seem like an electrical problem to me.????.......

Two other possibilities, neither inexpensive to fix. One, your head gasket could be starting to go, check for any antifreeze around the bottom of engine or on the ground, or around the head gasket itself. Two, it could be your low idle regulator. It's not a vacuum, but an actual part that has to be replaced. Just a little part but expensive. When I bought mine it was doing the same thing. They replaced it as part of the deal of purchase, and it has run great since (until my head gasket began to go). <BR>Not real great news either way. The head gasket job is expensive. The part, about $300.

If a few people can try recharging their battery when it's acting badly then we can determine (probably) if it's electrical or not. Most auto parts stores will recharge a battery for free.

well, I just replaced my battery last week.....so, unless I got a bad battery, it isn't the battery?

Hello<P>The problem is a part called the BAC valve(by pass air control). it adjusts the air intake at idle to allow a correct air to fuel mixture at idle. I had an idle problem with my 92 rs, at idle when i press the BRAKE pedal it would fluctate from 800 rpm to almost zero very violently. the dealer played with my idle screw and tightened the throttle body and since then (about 50,000km it hasn't fluctuated). the temperature effect could be due to the fact the back valve has this kind of waxy substance in it and as it gets cold it gets viscous. NOW the bad news is its expensive, almost $1000 cdn with labour. If u get can a sencond hand one its a best bet. If a dealer dignosises it as being this valve, MAKE SURE U HAVE AN AGREEMENT WITH THEM THAT U PAY NOTHING IF IT DOES NOT FIX YOUR PROBLEM. A cheap solution will be to play with the idle screw, usually works or reset your ecu(disconnect the positive battery terminal for 15 mins.) i do still have a rough idle and when at idle i put it into first the rpm changes a bit.<BR>good luck guys<p>[ February 20, 2002: Message edited by: 92mx-3 ]