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congrats on getting engaged. This is by far the most problem filled MX3 in history



I love this pic because its me looking through this whole thread lol

LOL I know right?? I will say this though: This MX has a HELLACIOUS heater in it!!! I crank it up, turn on the heat and BAM! hot air!

I thought maybe it was a wheel bearing too, but day before yesterday I put it up on jackstands and tried rocking the wheel in and out, holding it at the top and bottom, and there was ZERO play in it. Besides, there's no "metal grinding" sound that's common with bad bearings.

I also forgot to mention that day before yesterday I also had the front tires re-balanced, in case that was it.

After paying closer attention today on the way to work in it, here's a few other things I noticed:

The vibration is more NOISE than actual vibration. The steering wheel doesn't shake, and the car doesn't pull to one side. I can drive straight, let go of the wheel and it drives a straight arrow.

At about 40 MPH, I can vaguely feel the vibration in the floorboard and the seat, but if I glance in the rearview, the image is "bbrrrrrrrrrr"

I cannot emphasize this enough: The 'bobbing' noise is LOUD at about 30 MPH and up. It drowns out everything. The frequency of the "thumps" or "bobbing" is consistent with the rotational speed of the front wheels. The faster I go, the quicker the bobbing sound becomes.

As I said, I can feel no irregularities in the steering while I'm driving; no shimmy, no pulling or wandering to either side.

Wheel bearing... There's my money.

I've replaced every other part on my '92, and have almost this exact issue. Left front corner vibrates to hell and back, the faster it spins the worse it is, up until about 85.

Beccabob593 wrote:LOL I know right?? I will say this though: This MX has a HELLACIOUS heater in it!!! I crank it up, turn on the heat and BAM! hot air!

I thought maybe it was a wheel bearing too, but day before yesterday I put it up on jackstands and tried rocking the wheel in and out, holding it at the top and bottom, and there was ZERO play in it. Besides, there's no "metal grinding" sound that's common with bad bearings.

I also forgot to mention that day before yesterday I also had the front tires re-balanced, in case that was it.

After paying closer attention today on the way to work in it, here's a few other things I noticed:

The vibration is more NOISE than actual vibration. The steering wheel doesn't shake, and the car doesn't pull to one side. I can drive straight, let go of the wheel and it drives a straight arrow.

At about 40 MPH, I can vaguely feel the vibration in the floorboard and the seat, but if I glance in the rearview, the image is "bbrrrrrrrrrr"

I cannot emphasize this enough: The 'bobbing' noise is LOUD at about 30 MPH and up. It drowns out everything. The frequency of the "thumps" or "bobbing" is consistent with the rotational speed of the front wheels. The faster I go, the quicker the bobbing sound becomes.

As I said, I can feel no irregularities in the steering while I'm driving; no shimmy, no pulling or wandering to either side.

If its not the wheel bearing. Check to see if you have a broken motor/trans mount or one came loose..... Then check your transmission fluid. If thats all good, swap the tires from the front, to the back. If it still does not change, buy a nice set of subwoofers.....

Another vote for wheel bearing. By the time you can feel play the bearing is really shot. But this could also be a busted belt inside a tire - not always obvious by looking.

Troubleshoot tips:
Test for a bad tire by using your spare. Replace one tire at a time with your spare and then test drive to see if there is any change.

If no change then try to verify it is a bad bearing. Pay attention to the noise in turns. Usually only one wheel bearing goes bad at a time. The noise will change in turns as you unload one of the wheels. If you are convinced it is a wheel bearing replace both.

Replacing front wheel bearings is not simple. It either requires special tools or press. You could take your spindle to a shop and save a few $ by having them remove the old and press in your new bearings. Don't forget to replace the bearing seal at the same time. Don't be surprised if there is evidence that the hub has spun and you need to replace the hub or spindle.

If you've got any bouncing, my money is still on a wheel bearing...

My car tracks PERFECTLY after my most recent alignment, and has for 2,000 miles. Despite that, I have literal bouncing, that is visible, and easily noticed by passengers. I'm 99% positive it's the wheel bearing, as everything else in that corner is brand new.

This evening, I placed the car on jack stands to get the front wheels off the ground.

I removed the brake caliper & rotor, and there is NO PLAY whatsoever in the hub assembly.

I started the engine with it in 2nd gear and eased of the clutch, and the noise was so loud outside the car I had to yell over it to talk.

I did however pinpoint the source - the sound seems to be coming from the inner joint on the cv axle.

Now that I've had a listen under the car, it's more of a loud, "dragging a cinder block on concrete" roaring sound, and it almost sounds like it's coming from the input shaft.

Is it possible that the nicompoops that half-a-- installed the KF may have half-a-- installed the axle as well?

Hey guys,

Becca and I removed the driver's side axle today and looks like the inboard joint is completely broken. Holding the axle horizontal, the outboard portion "sags" at the inboard joint.

We've got a replacement on the way that will be here tomorrow.

Glad it wasn't the bearings in the diff!!

"Hey guys,

Becca and I removed the driver's side axle today and looks like the inboard joint is completely broken. Holding the axle horizontal, the outboard portion "sags" at the inboard joint.

We've got a replacement on the way that will be here tomorrow.

Glad it wasn't the bearings in the diff!! "

Well, it seems I was a bit premature with my celebration; we got the other new axle in and no change.

I'm 99.999999% convinced now the driver's side carrier (differential, for those who aren't familiar with the term) bearing is bad.

So the next order of business is to pull the transaxle out, tear it down and replace the bearings on the carrier. Yay. Fun. fun.

Replace the tranny with a junkyard one... It'll be cheaper, and probably have less miles on it(depending on what you pull it from)

Cheaper? I highly doubt that. I just bought a pair of replacement carrier bearings at the local Advance Auto for $13.

Replacing the tranny would be a lot less wrench time, but a lot more moola. Pull-A-Part trannies usually go for $60, and that's the cheapest junker you're going to find. The problem with that of course, is FINDING one. The MX-6 and Probe GT use the same tranny, but like the MX-3 GS, they are super rare. When Becca and I went to the Pull-A-Part in Mobile, AL looking for a replacement IAC, they had two MX-3s and two Probes, but all of them were 4 cyl.

Besides, there's nothing wrong with the transmission side of it; the shifts are firm, no trouble getting into gears, no noisy gears.

My only wish now is that we could find a good LSD diff to swap in while were at it...

Beccabob593 wrote:The problem with that of course, is FINDING one. The MX-6 and Probe GT use the same tranny, but like the MX-3 GS, they are super rare. When Becca and I went to the Pull-A-Part in Mobile, AL looking for a replacement IAC, they had two MX-3s and two Probes, but all of them were 4 cyl.

You left out the 626 and Millenia transmissions...
I'm sorry to hear that the cars are so rare in your area. I see no fewer than 4 Probe GTs every single trip I make to the junkyard, although MX-3s are lacking in my area. 626s are more common than Probe GTs, and Millenia's come in almost as often.

Beccabob593 wrote:Besides, there's nothing wrong with the transmission side of it; the shifts are firm, no trouble getting into gears, no noisy gears.

For what it's worth, when one thing breaks, more tends to follow... I've done nothing with transmissions, but that principle applies to almost everything on a car. If it works out for you, then good!!

For what it's worth, most JYs will haggle on prices. Mention the bellhousing being scratched up and or dented... Say 2 of the mounting holes were stripped out and you need to re-tap them in a larger size. That should get you $10 off at least.

MrMazda92 wrote:You left out the 626 and Millenia transmissions...

Millenia's are auto only

Nd4SpdSe wrote:

MrMazda92 wrote:You left out the 626 and Millenia transmissions...

Millenia's are auto only

You positive? I thought that was only the S? Maybe I was thinking about an auto>manual swap... Possibly misspoke on that one.

At any rate, I asked Becca if she wanted to consider just replacing the tranny, but since she bought it as a project car, she's excited to tear in to the transmission. I know it may sound daunting, but I've found a step-by-step of a disassembly & reassembly here:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthre ... -Gear-Swap

Also, that's why I didn't mention the Millenias or 626s. I think they were both only sold with autos.

MX-3s are RARE here. When I say rare, I mean so rare that the only other one I've seen on the road was in Atlanta, GA last year.

I haven't seen a MX-6 on the road in years, either. Not around here anyway.

I will occasionally see a Probe on the road, but it's only maybe 1 every six months or so. I'm telling you guys, down here in redneckville, lifted Z71s have the run of the place!