The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
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The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
I bought my MX-3 Jan. 03 for $800. I put close to 20,000 miles on it since then. However the other day the "Check Engine" light came on. I replaced plugs, wires, oil, oil filter, air filter. Still the light remains. I can't tell a difference. Except sometimes going on an onramp to the highway and I give it some gas and it stutters and feels like it's about to die then it goes back to normal. I was thinking of replacing the Oxygen sensor and maybe the alternator. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
- Limegreen mx-3
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Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
am have the same problem did all the things u did even replaced my o2 sencer and still check engine light stays on its pissing me off. not to mention i have all the parts on signture below. only thing i can thing of is if my timming belt is off. cause when i nail it and shift bogs out bad them a rush of power comes like 2-3 sec later. wish i u out but dought its ur alternator. ur 02 sencer cost like $20.00 bosch universal 02 sencer.Originally posted by Nocturnal_MX3:
I bought my MX-3 Jan. 03 for $800. I put close to 20,000 miles on it since then. However the other day the "Check Engine" light came on. I replaced plugs, wires, oil, oil filter, air filter. Still the light remains. I can't tell a difference. Except sometimes going on an onramp to the highway and I give it some gas and it stutters and feels like it's about to die then it goes back to normal. I was thinking of replacing the Oxygen sensor and maybe the alternator. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
(12.4@118@18psi) 92 MX-3, KIA (BP-DE)Swap, Electromotive TEC II Standalone, 8,200 Rev Limit, Custom Intake/Exhaust Manifold, 1,000cc PTE Injectors, Custom Fuel Rail, Aeromotive FPR, 80MM Holley TB, MSD 8.5MM Wires, NGK V-Power #8, SC6262 Turbo, 3 in. DownPipe, Tial WG/BOV, 600HP PTE FMIC, 2.5IN Intercooler Piping, EQUUS/Autometer KIA G-Series Tran, Extreme ACT Clutch, Built BP in starting process.
Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
Pull the malfunction code to narrow down the issue. . .
This is from Mike P's site. He rules.
Locate and open the "Diagnostic" box under the hood. It's by the firewall. Below is shown a representation of the pins inside the Diagnostic box:
The pins labelled "TEN" (which stands for "Test ENgine" by the way) and GND (ground) are the pins of interest. Make sure the ignition is OFF and use a paperclip to jumper the TEN and GND pins together.
Turn on the ignition (do not start the car) and watch the CEL. After about 4-seconds, it will begin to flash any codes that may be stored. If there are no codes stored, the CEL will not flash (it will go out.)
Malfunction codes are generally 2-digit affairs although Mazda decided to get tricky. They include 2-digit codes that involve '0' (zero) as a digit. Code 02 is one example. Code 10 is another.
The codes are broken into a 10s digit and a 1s digit. The 10s digit is flashed first, followed by the 1s digit. The digits are distinguished by the length of time they flash the CEL. 10s digits flash the CEL on for 1.2-sec while 1s digits flash the CEL for 0.4-sec. Digits that are '0' (zero) flash the CEL exactly zero times.
The diagram below illustrates graphically how two typical malfunction codes might be flashed out.
Note how the presumably single-digit code '3' flashes the CEL for short-pulses only. This indicates the 10s digit is zero for this code.
List of codes and what they correspond to:
02 'NE2' crankshaft position sensor
03 'G' camshaft position sensor
04 'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position
sensor
05 Knock sensor
08 Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF)
09 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
10 Intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
12 Throttle position sensor (TPS)
14 Barometric pressure sensor
15 LHO2S inactivation error
16 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system
17 LHO2S inversion error
23 RHO2S inactivation error
24 RHO2S inversion error
25 Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid
26 Canister purge solenoid
28 EGR vacuum solenoid
29 EGR vent solenoid
34 Idle air control (IAC) solenoid
41 VRIS #1 solenoid
46 VRIS #2 solenoid
This is from Mike P's site. He rules.
Locate and open the "Diagnostic" box under the hood. It's by the firewall. Below is shown a representation of the pins inside the Diagnostic box:
The pins labelled "TEN" (which stands for "Test ENgine" by the way) and GND (ground) are the pins of interest. Make sure the ignition is OFF and use a paperclip to jumper the TEN and GND pins together.
Turn on the ignition (do not start the car) and watch the CEL. After about 4-seconds, it will begin to flash any codes that may be stored. If there are no codes stored, the CEL will not flash (it will go out.)
Malfunction codes are generally 2-digit affairs although Mazda decided to get tricky. They include 2-digit codes that involve '0' (zero) as a digit. Code 02 is one example. Code 10 is another.
The codes are broken into a 10s digit and a 1s digit. The 10s digit is flashed first, followed by the 1s digit. The digits are distinguished by the length of time they flash the CEL. 10s digits flash the CEL on for 1.2-sec while 1s digits flash the CEL for 0.4-sec. Digits that are '0' (zero) flash the CEL exactly zero times.
The diagram below illustrates graphically how two typical malfunction codes might be flashed out.
Note how the presumably single-digit code '3' flashes the CEL for short-pulses only. This indicates the 10s digit is zero for this code.
List of codes and what they correspond to:
02 'NE2' crankshaft position sensor
03 'G' camshaft position sensor
04 'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position
sensor
05 Knock sensor
08 Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF)
09 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
10 Intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
12 Throttle position sensor (TPS)
14 Barometric pressure sensor
15 LHO2S inactivation error
16 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system
17 LHO2S inversion error
23 RHO2S inactivation error
24 RHO2S inversion error
25 Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid
26 Canister purge solenoid
28 EGR vacuum solenoid
29 EGR vent solenoid
34 Idle air control (IAC) solenoid
41 VRIS #1 solenoid
46 VRIS #2 solenoid
Black 94 RS, Erebuni MS style front, OEM sideskirts, Clear signals, altezza tails, 93 seats, Civic projectors
- Limegreen mx-3
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- Posts: 1778
- Joined: October 29th, 2002, 2:01 am
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Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
whats a code 19
(12.4@118@18psi) 92 MX-3, KIA (BP-DE)Swap, Electromotive TEC II Standalone, 8,200 Rev Limit, Custom Intake/Exhaust Manifold, 1,000cc PTE Injectors, Custom Fuel Rail, Aeromotive FPR, 80MM Holley TB, MSD 8.5MM Wires, NGK V-Power #8, SC6262 Turbo, 3 in. DownPipe, Tial WG/BOV, 600HP PTE FMIC, 2.5IN Intercooler Piping, EQUUS/Autometer KIA G-Series Tran, Extreme ACT Clutch, Built BP in starting process.
Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
Great to get those codes....
Any chance on a link to mike's site? sounds like a place I should visit!
Any chance on a link to mike's site? sounds like a place I should visit!
{sigh} Time to move on
Out with the old: Tropical Emerald MX-3 GSR (KL-DE)
In with the new: Phantom Blue Mazda3s GT
Out with the old: Tropical Emerald MX-3 GSR (KL-DE)
In with the new: Phantom Blue Mazda3s GT
Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
Hey, how do we clear out the memorized codes? so once a problem is Corrected we don't keep seeing the code?
{sigh} Time to move on
Out with the old: Tropical Emerald MX-3 GSR (KL-DE)
In with the new: Phantom Blue Mazda3s GT
Out with the old: Tropical Emerald MX-3 GSR (KL-DE)
In with the new: Phantom Blue Mazda3s GT
Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
You just disconnect the battery for a few minuits and depress the brake peddle five or so times ..then reconect the battery and then you should be ready to go.
Eugene L
1.6DOHC
N.S.canada
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552384
Eugene L
1.6DOHC
N.S.canada
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552384
Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
i am having the same thing happen only it only comes on when the car is about to die, i know its an electrical problem because the rpm gauge goes crazy, but it has to do with my coil wire i think i fixed it but thought i would bring it up
CTC Racing
92 1.6L
93 323 Tranny, ACT clutch, Exhaust, cold air intake, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD 8.5mm super conductor wires NGK V-power platinum plugs,engine dress up,custom interior(almost done), GS front bumper, GS 5 spoke wheels Painted white.
92 1.6L
93 323 Tranny, ACT clutch, Exhaust, cold air intake, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD 8.5mm super conductor wires NGK V-power platinum plugs,engine dress up,custom interior(almost done), GS front bumper, GS 5 spoke wheels Painted white.
- Limegreen mx-3
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- Joined: October 29th, 2002, 2:01 am
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Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
thats a bunch of crap i do that all the time and codes still pop up.Originally posted by Ehpl:
You just disconnect the battery for a few minuits and depress the brake peddle five or so times ..then reconect the battery and then you should be ready to go.
Eugene L
1.6DOHC
N.S.canada
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552384
(12.4@118@18psi) 92 MX-3, KIA (BP-DE)Swap, Electromotive TEC II Standalone, 8,200 Rev Limit, Custom Intake/Exhaust Manifold, 1,000cc PTE Injectors, Custom Fuel Rail, Aeromotive FPR, 80MM Holley TB, MSD 8.5MM Wires, NGK V-Power #8, SC6262 Turbo, 3 in. DownPipe, Tial WG/BOV, 600HP PTE FMIC, 2.5IN Intercooler Piping, EQUUS/Autometer KIA G-Series Tran, Extreme ACT Clutch, Built BP in starting process.
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- Location: Miami
Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
What is the CEL??
a light or somthing?
a light or somthing?
Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
Maybe you have not fixed the problem that caused the code in the first place?Originally posted by Javier Munoz Jr:
thats a bunch of crap i do that all the time and codes still pop up.Originally posted by Ehpl:
You just disconnect the battery for a few minuits and depress the brake peddle five or so times ..then reconect the battery and then you should be ready to go.
Eugene L
1.6DOHC
N.S.canada
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552384
I've now had multiple sources tell me that for obdc-I cars (92/93?) you just pull the negative terminal, and step on the brake for a few seconds and it should clear the memorized codes.
So either all of them (including specialty tuning shops) are wrong, or your car has a newer style OBDC-II, or your codes are coming back because there's still a problem.
{sigh} Time to move on
Out with the old: Tropical Emerald MX-3 GSR (KL-DE)
In with the new: Phantom Blue Mazda3s GT
Out with the old: Tropical Emerald MX-3 GSR (KL-DE)
In with the new: Phantom Blue Mazda3s GT
Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
Correct, the codes can be cleared by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and stepping down on the brake pedal just to discharge any minute electrical charge remaining in components like capacitors. If your ECU is displaying codes after you have done that then the problem causing the code is still present. The ECU's error codes are stored in "static memory"
Static memory: A type of semiconductor read/write memory (RAM) that does not require periodic refresh cycles. As long as electrical power is ON, the data in a static memory is maintained. When there is no power supplied to the memory, the stored data is lost.
Static memory: A type of semiconductor read/write memory (RAM) that does not require periodic refresh cycles. As long as electrical power is ON, the data in a static memory is maintained. When there is no power supplied to the memory, the stored data is lost.
Black 94 RS, Erebuni MS style front, OEM sideskirts, Clear signals, altezza tails, 93 seats, Civic projectors
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- Joined: July 27th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: Miami
Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
I did the test and the output was 03 wich is the camshaft position sensor. So I wnt to the Mazda dealer and they told me that the 1.6 SOHC does not have a camshaft position sensor.
Does anybody knows where this sensor is?
I think it could be integrated to the distributor.
Does anybody knows where this sensor is?
I think it could be integrated to the distributor.
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- Location: cleveland
Re: The Dreaded "Check Engine" light.
ok I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM, DON'T WASTE TIME BUY A BRAND SPANKING NEW THROTLR POSITIONIND SENSOR, AND CHANGE IT. iT WILL BE WORTH IT. yOUR PROBLEM SHOULD GO AWAY. THAN CLEAR THAT DAMN CODE EVRIONE IS TALKING ABOUT. it IS THE TPS sensor and it is loicated on the throtlr body and it faces the firewall.
StPapp