I have a 1993 MX-3 with the I4 1.6L engine, all stock. I have some very loud clatter coming from under the valve cover. Here is the sequence of events leading to it:
1. The clutch went out.
2. I had a mechanic change the clutch. The pilot bearing was also bad and was replaced.
3. There is still some bearing noise when the clutch is depressed, and the valves now clatter. The clutch pedal feels extrememly light.
4. I took it back and they took out the clutch, everything looked fine, they put in another new clutch set. Oil pressure is at low end of normal.
5. Still the same upon return.
It seems odd to me that the valve clatter changed so abruptly. I also changed the oil and oil filter before the second clutch job. It might have helped a tiny bit, but it is hard to tell.
This clatter is loud. I had some friends listen to it, and it sounds just like the upper engine is not getting any oil at all. There is some though because I get some splatter if the oil cap is off.
The mechanic speculates that the thrust washer might be bad (causing the bearing noise in the pan when the clutch is depressed). I'm speculating that enough oil is flowing in the bearings to cause a loss of oil in the head.
I saw a mention of an infamous valve tap issue revolving around the HVLs. I tried to use the search tool on this site for more information but I didn't get much.
Any advice, and speculation whether it's time to tear down the engine or just install new HVLs (and how to tell if that is the problem) would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry this was so verbose, but I wanted all the information to be here. It seems better than an "I have a funny noise, what is causing it" post.
very bad valve tap
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Re: very bad valve tap
hi yea um my az3 makes a similar noise except that its not the valves its actually the lifters are shot hope this helps bro
Re: very bad valve tap
Go to any local auto parts store and and pick up a carbon buildup removing oil additive. The additive cleans whole engine. Its not cheap to replace the HLAs. In most cases this quites them down or eliminates the valve tap all together.
Black 94 RS, Erebuni MS style front, OEM sideskirts, Clear signals, altezza tails, 93 seats, Civic projectors
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Re: very bad valve tap
If you used additive, do not run your oil for a long period. The free carbon floating in your engine from it will do more harm then good if you go the normal course of oil.
Of course, you could also just do a engine flush...a whole lot more thorough
Of course, you could also just do a engine flush...a whole lot more thorough
Stock 1995 RS - Creek Blue
Car Meanins:
Honda: Hang On, Not Done Accelerating
FORD: Frequently Overhauled, Rarely Driven
Mazda: Must Always Zoom Down Asphalt
Car Meanins:
Honda: Hang On, Not Done Accelerating
FORD: Frequently Overhauled, Rarely Driven
Mazda: Must Always Zoom Down Asphalt
Re: very bad valve tap
A trick I have used a few times an it worked. Add 1-2L of automatic transmition fluid to your engine, 1 to 2 weeks before changing the oil depending on how much driving you do.
I had a ford after doing a tune up an a brake job (car sat in garage for 3 days) when I fired it up to take it out all of a sudden it sounded like a british churchhill tank,It freaked me out I thought I might of droped a cynderblock down the carb or something,My uncle (diesel mech for 30yrs)told me to add trans fluid, 20 minuits later sounded fine.
Eugene L
1.6DOHC
N.S.canada
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552384
I had a ford after doing a tune up an a brake job (car sat in garage for 3 days) when I fired it up to take it out all of a sudden it sounded like a british churchhill tank,It freaked me out I thought I might of droped a cynderblock down the carb or something,My uncle (diesel mech for 30yrs)told me to add trans fluid, 20 minuits later sounded fine.
Eugene L
1.6DOHC
N.S.canada
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552384
Re: very bad valve tap
Well, last night with a warm engine I did a compression check and got 155, 155, 130, 160. Now I took the intake rocker arm assy off and found 2 stuck lifters. There is a bit of varnish on the arms and around the tops of the lifters, but overall it looks better than I expected.
I took the o-rings off the lifters and I'm soaking them in Jasco paint brush cleaner. That stuff is incredible -- it can clean all the crap out of old tired paint brushes where paint thinner won't, so I'm hoping it will clean the crap out of the lifters. If they don't start working, I'll order a new set.
I've caught the bug after perusing this web site.
I want to put the minimum into this engine, and make it last long enough to rebuild a new engine. I'm thinking of getting a B6-DE and figuring out the wiring harness, or a BP-DE.
I like the gas milage of the B6-DE (more power and better milage than my B6-ME). The engine-swap faq doesn't show milage on the BP-DE. I commute 35 miles each way, so gas milage matters a bit.
I'll let you all know how the Jasco stuff works out.
I took the o-rings off the lifters and I'm soaking them in Jasco paint brush cleaner. That stuff is incredible -- it can clean all the crap out of old tired paint brushes where paint thinner won't, so I'm hoping it will clean the crap out of the lifters. If they don't start working, I'll order a new set.
I've caught the bug after perusing this web site.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
I like the gas milage of the B6-DE (more power and better milage than my B6-ME). The engine-swap faq doesn't show milage on the BP-DE. I commute 35 miles each way, so gas milage matters a bit.
I'll let you all know how the Jasco stuff works out.
Re: very bad valve tap
One stuck lifter was toast so I replaced it, but I got the other one loosened up. When I put it all back together, the "repaired" lifter sounded aweful, so I drove off to get another new one, and by the time I got back it was fine.
I don't think the oil flush process would have fixed it.
That was fun!
I don't think the oil flush process would have fixed it.
That was fun!