Engine overheating problem
Engine overheating problem
I'm hoping maybe one of you will have a saving idea.
This is my problem: Engine is overheating consistently.
This is what i did so far:
- removed thermostat
- flushed radiator, hoses, engine circuit with a water hose
- refilled radiator and overflow tank w/ coolant
- made sure waterpump was working
- fan is working
More details:
The engine was overheating long time ago, so I changed the thermostat and it was running fine.
Not so long ago the waterpump belt broke and I replaced it. Water pump works (water was gushing out of hose when i disconnected the radiator hose and accelerated engine)
Waterpump has been replaced 6 months ago.
I don't know what else to check. The car does not overheat that fast when heater is on, but it still overheats if I drive with 65mph for more than 20-30 minutes.
I've been reading the posts on this forum and people mentioned head gaskets. I need someone to tell me how to check for head gaskets problems. The more detail, the better
Right now I'm driving with the heater on all the time and it's quite uncomfortable.
This is my problem: Engine is overheating consistently.
This is what i did so far:
- removed thermostat
- flushed radiator, hoses, engine circuit with a water hose
- refilled radiator and overflow tank w/ coolant
- made sure waterpump was working
- fan is working
More details:
The engine was overheating long time ago, so I changed the thermostat and it was running fine.
Not so long ago the waterpump belt broke and I replaced it. Water pump works (water was gushing out of hose when i disconnected the radiator hose and accelerated engine)
Waterpump has been replaced 6 months ago.
I don't know what else to check. The car does not overheat that fast when heater is on, but it still overheats if I drive with 65mph for more than 20-30 minutes.
I've been reading the posts on this forum and people mentioned head gaskets. I need someone to tell me how to check for head gaskets problems. The more detail, the better
Right now I'm driving with the heater on all the time and it's quite uncomfortable.
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- Regular Member
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Re: Engine overheating problem
Replace the radiator cap.
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Re: Engine overheating problem
get ur head gasket replaced that ur problem and do it fast before you warp ur head and/or block
3-1-0 RACING club PREZ.
94' mx-3.....was all motor now awd bpt
91' 323....daily driver
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95' eclipse gsx......awd turbo 11.4 eta
94' mx-3.....was all motor now awd bpt
91' 323....daily driver
78' cutless coupe...bad a-- mofo v8
95' eclipse gsx......awd turbo 11.4 eta
Re: Engine overheating problem
Number one..
put your thermostat back in. your hurting your motor. Heat transfer is not a instant thing, it takes a few seconds to happen the thermostat functions as a restiction, in the flow system to allow this to happen. If you want to run open without a thermostat cut the two prongs that hold the spring in place and remove the valuve.. The rest of the peice NEEDS to be in the car.
Number two. Does the car over heat while ideling at a light or driving?
Number three, remove your radiator cap while the car is running. Is fluid being forced out of the radiator.
How hot is the motor getting? Into red?
Is the car losing coolant? Do you get smoke out of your tail pipe?
How clean is your radiator, it is possible that airflow can be blocked because of dirt/mud on that or the condensor coil if you have AC. IS the airflow passage blocked or altered in any manor.
Do the fans flip on before the motor reachs 2/3 on the thermo gauge?
Rinse lather repeat answer and I can help point ya in the right direction.
<small>[ May 31, 2004, 04:26 AM: Message edited by: torpedan ]</small>
put your thermostat back in. your hurting your motor. Heat transfer is not a instant thing, it takes a few seconds to happen the thermostat functions as a restiction, in the flow system to allow this to happen. If you want to run open without a thermostat cut the two prongs that hold the spring in place and remove the valuve.. The rest of the peice NEEDS to be in the car.
Number two. Does the car over heat while ideling at a light or driving?
Number three, remove your radiator cap while the car is running. Is fluid being forced out of the radiator.
How hot is the motor getting? Into red?
Is the car losing coolant? Do you get smoke out of your tail pipe?
How clean is your radiator, it is possible that airflow can be blocked because of dirt/mud on that or the condensor coil if you have AC. IS the airflow passage blocked or altered in any manor.
Do the fans flip on before the motor reachs 2/3 on the thermo gauge?
Rinse lather repeat answer and I can help point ya in the right direction.
<small>[ May 31, 2004, 04:26 AM: Message edited by: torpedan ]</small>
-torp.
I don't own a Mazda.
I don't own a Mazda.
Re: Engine overheating problem
Thank you for the reply.
> Number two. Does the car over heat while ideling > at a light or driving?
No. It does not overheat when idling. After I flushed the radiator I let it idle for 30 minutes, with the heater OFF and AC OFF. It was not overheating.
> Number three, remove your radiator cap while the > car is running. Is fluid being forced out of the > radiator.
There is fluid being pushed into the little chamber when I accellerate the engine, at normal idle speed I can not see any fluid being pushed. Test done with cool engine.
> How hot is the motor getting? Into red?
Without turning the heater on, it will go into red. With the heater on it stays in the middle.
> Is the car losing coolant?
No coolane puddles are visible under the car or near the engine.
> How clean is your radiator, it is possible that
Radiator and AC condenser are clean. There is no mud visible or anything stuck in between the metal fins.
> Do the fans flip on before the motor reachs 2/3 on the thermo gauge?
One fan is always turning; the other fan comes on only when I turn A/C on.
I will check for smoke coming from the tail pipe, what color should it be? What exactly should I be looking for?
> Number two. Does the car over heat while ideling > at a light or driving?
No. It does not overheat when idling. After I flushed the radiator I let it idle for 30 minutes, with the heater OFF and AC OFF. It was not overheating.
> Number three, remove your radiator cap while the > car is running. Is fluid being forced out of the > radiator.
There is fluid being pushed into the little chamber when I accellerate the engine, at normal idle speed I can not see any fluid being pushed. Test done with cool engine.
> How hot is the motor getting? Into red?
Without turning the heater on, it will go into red. With the heater on it stays in the middle.
> Is the car losing coolant?
No coolane puddles are visible under the car or near the engine.
> How clean is your radiator, it is possible that
Radiator and AC condenser are clean. There is no mud visible or anything stuck in between the metal fins.
> Do the fans flip on before the motor reachs 2/3 on the thermo gauge?
One fan is always turning; the other fan comes on only when I turn A/C on.
I will check for smoke coming from the tail pipe, what color should it be? What exactly should I be looking for?
-
- Regular Member
- Posts: 764
- Joined: June 16th, 2002, 2:01 am
Re: Engine overheating problem
You MAY have an overheating problem caused by head gasket issues, but before going too far down that path, replace your radiator cap. It's the only basic troubleshooting fix that isn't listed on your thread and it's an inexpensive part.
The radiator cap is rated to maintain X-lbs. of cooling system pressure before it opens to allow coolant into the overflow reservoir as your engine heats. If the cap is not functioning within spec it may be opening early under too-low-pressure and by not maintaining proper cooling system pressure, the boiling point of your coolant can actually be lowered--causing overheating. The temperature of the coolant can sometimes reach 250 to 275 F (121 to 135 C). Even with ethylene glycol added, these temperatures would boil the coolant, so something additional must be done to raise its boiling point.
The cooling system uses pressure to further raise the boiling point of the coolant. Just as the boiling temperature of water is higher in a pressure cooker, the boiling temperature of coolant is higher if you pressurize the system. Most cars have a pressure limit of 14 to 15 pounds per square inch (psi), which raises the boiling point another 45 F (25 C) so the coolant can withstand the high temperatures
So if your radiator cap can't maintain proper system pressure, your car overheats.
The radiator cap is rated to maintain X-lbs. of cooling system pressure before it opens to allow coolant into the overflow reservoir as your engine heats. If the cap is not functioning within spec it may be opening early under too-low-pressure and by not maintaining proper cooling system pressure, the boiling point of your coolant can actually be lowered--causing overheating. The temperature of the coolant can sometimes reach 250 to 275 F (121 to 135 C). Even with ethylene glycol added, these temperatures would boil the coolant, so something additional must be done to raise its boiling point.
The cooling system uses pressure to further raise the boiling point of the coolant. Just as the boiling temperature of water is higher in a pressure cooker, the boiling temperature of coolant is higher if you pressurize the system. Most cars have a pressure limit of 14 to 15 pounds per square inch (psi), which raises the boiling point another 45 F (25 C) so the coolant can withstand the high temperatures
So if your radiator cap can't maintain proper system pressure, your car overheats.
Re: Engine overheating problem
I did change the radiator cap today. It did not fix anything.
However the belt going from the alternator to the water pump broke today. It was a new belt (2 months old)
I am wondering if maybe there's something wrong with the waterpump and it stalls or something, causing the belt to break.
However the belt going from the alternator to the water pump broke today. It was a new belt (2 months old)
I am wondering if maybe there's something wrong with the waterpump and it stalls or something, causing the belt to break.
Re: Engine overheating problem
Hrmm, a lot or a little? Are you getting bubbles in it or does it smell of exsaust/gas?Originally posted by Cosmin:
Thank you for the reply.
> Number three, remove your radiator cap while the > car is running. Is fluid being forced out of the > radiator.
There is fluid being pushed into the little chamber when I accellerate the engine, at normal idle speed I can not see any fluid being pushed. Test done with cool engine.
-torp.
I don't own a Mazda.
I don't own a Mazda.
Re: Engine overheating problem
Nope. does not smell of exhaust gas. And it's only a little. It's not gushing or anything similar.
Anyway, a friend of mine is coming over. He is a car mechanic and he's going to help me replace the broken belt.
Anyway, a friend of mine is coming over. He is a car mechanic and he's going to help me replace the broken belt.
Re: Engine overheating problem
Ok, there's no oil in the overflow tank and there's no milky stuff neither on the oil cap nor on the dip stick.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
- papa roached
- Senior Member
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- Joined: December 10th, 2002, 2:01 am
- Location: Montgomery, WVa
Re: Engine overheating problem
have we ruled out the water pump not pumping what it should
93 MX-3 GS (collecting parts for Eunos Presso conversion), 94 626 Transmission (4.10 gears), KL31 camed KL-ZE, Millenia intake, Millenia TB, SSAutochrome V2 headers, Magnaflow cat, 2 1/4 in pipe, Top Speed Pro 1 muffler, 9lb Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, Corksport SS clutch line, Corksport SS brake lines, Unorthadox UDP, 255 lph fuel pump, HEI mod, ghetto-charger intake, KL36 ECU, SRD transverse crossmember bushings, SRD shifter extention bushing, SRD crossmember, Corksport bronzoil shifter bushings, Brembo Crossdrilled and Slotted rotors, 15 inch Konig Heliums, ZX-2 S/R struts, Eibach lowering springs, OEM front strut bar, Ebay rear strut bar, BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDWs
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
Re: Engine overheating problem
Nope but we should check to be sure it spins freely..Originally posted by papa roached:
have we ruled out the water pump not pumping what it should
Yeah usually it is best to have a mechanic check **** out.. diagnostic over the internet sucks
-torp.
I don't own a Mazda.
I don't own a Mazda.
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- Regular Member
- Posts: 764
- Joined: June 16th, 2002, 2:01 am
Re: Engine overheating problem
Sending this link in case you haven't seen it before. Hope it helps.Originally posted by Cosmin:
Ok, there's no oil in the overflow tank and there's no milky stuff neither on the oil cap nor on the dip stick. Any ideas?
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/htmlmessage25.html