Noooooo!!! The infamous Idle problem has hit me!

[cybinpro]

Ladyvenom, not sure what the idle valve controller has to do with starting. Mine has had no problems starting. You should give it a shot and see if it works. At least it might work better when you sell it. <p>When you unplug it, the computer takes over ( I think) and sets the idle at 1,000 rpms. Your best be to fix it is to replace the valve or try to clean it out.<p>-Cybin

[Joobers]

Didn't work for me.<p>I unplugged the air bypass valve and I did have problems starting the car.<p>Didn't solve the idle problem either. I have an automatic and it would still idle funny when it was in drive and the car was not in motion. However, when the car was in neutral or park it would idle at 1100 RPM and stayed at that RPM.

[lady_venom]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by cybinpro:
Ladyvenom, not sure what the idle valve controller has to do with starting. Mine has had no problems starting. You should give it a shot and see if it works. At least it might work better when you sell it. <p>When you unplug it, the computer takes over ( I think) and sets the idle at 1,000 rpms. Your best be to fix it is to replace the valve or try to clean it out.<p>-Cybin<hr></blockquote><p>mine has no problem starting either. Them problem w/ my car has to do w/ my brake systems. When you press on the brakes..the rmps go down..and go up and down and up..there is a vaccum leak on my car...something that unplugged air control valve won't fix.
O well....

[Jordi]

well, my car idles @ 1000rpm now, which isn't 100 percent as it is supposed to be (read: 800rpm), anyways, its much beter dan idle @ 1500rpm, as it did in the first place

[guyaverage]

Hi I am new here but wanted to jump in on this thread... My '93 also has the imfamous wants-to-stall-but-not-quite problem and has had it almost since day one when I bought it brand new. I cant for the life of me find where I read it (this bulletin board, a Yahoo group, or where ever..) but I thought this problem was addressed a few years back in a TSB from Mazda that said the programming in the electronic control unit (ECU) was the culprit and a new one (about $200 at the time)was the fix. (Not to say in certain cases it couldnt be something else like a vacuum leak, head gasket going bad, fouled plugs, etc). Simply unplugging the air bypass valve may be an effective enough band-aid for the problem for some, but the air bypass valve wasnt the "cause" of the problem, it was how the ECU controlled the operation of valve. Aside from that, if you have an automatic tranny and unplug the bypass valve and happen to turn on your air conditioning, either expect a stall, or at the very least an idle rough enough to shatter your teeth right out of you mouth. From what I can remember from when I read about the ECU being the problem, the 'defective' ECU's were having problems coping with the varying electrical loads and reduced alternator output at idle, causing ignition and fuel flow control issues, which leads to the shaky idle/imminent stall condition. In the meantime, if switching to a GS alternator, or adjusting the idle upwards, or unplugging the bypass valve cures your particular Mx's ills, thats great. But it isnt working for everyone, and I cant believe that so many Mazda service departments havent been able to figure this problem out. I recently had the broken front spring recall and seatbelt recall repairs done on my '93, and I built up a good repor with the service advisor at the local Mazda dealer, I will pick her brain on this problem and see what she knows and let you all know what I find out. In the meantime, my personal band-aid for the problem was to increase my idle speed to about 1150 rpm (in neutral) so that it idles at about 900-950 in "drive". This GREATLY reduced the frequency of the 'impending-stall' occurances in my car, by about 95%.

[gmuffb]

I have a v6, i had the same problem. After 5 mechanics looked at it, tuned it up, replaced distributer, and more. It ended up being the timing, it was off quite a bit, maybe ya'll can test that...hope that can help.

[lady_venom]

^ too the two last posts above me...thats great info. As for the comuter in my car being the problem..that very well my be..but I also think there is something wrong with the brake booster cable..vaccum leak thing. its so annoying.<p>and as for the timing belt..I almost had that fixed to see if it would fix it..but I never did. As I AM SICK OF SPENDING money on that dumb car and now I wish I had nEVER bought it. No wonder all my life ppl told me NEVER to buy a precidia.
Nothing but problems, but I just HAD to have it. O well..its going up for sale...and Ive had it with cars for awhile and now decided to pay off my debt and take the bus.

[cybinpro]

Joobers, Sounds like it could be something like your torque converter or tranny. I don't have an automatic and don't know much about them. <p>LadyVenom, If you have a manual tranny, TRY IT! Really, it's not had to do and if it doesn't work all you have to do is plug it back in.<p>
If this doens't work for some people, make sure your timing is on, idle speed is set and spark plugs are clean and ect.<p>Later
-Cybin

[neverenuff]

Hey venom, how much you sellin the car for ,what collor is it,how many miles does it have on it, and were you from.

[lady_venom]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by NEVER ENUFF CUSTOMS:
Hey venom, how much you sellin the car for ,what collor is it,how many miles does it have on it, and were you from.<hr></blockquote><p>
I am hoping to get at least $8000-9000 for it including brand new winter tires and summer tires, its white, standard, 117 000 kms, needs a new clutch, I am from Calgary.<p>I also have 17" Konig Villan rims and rubber for it too.......

[lady_venom]

This is my add:<p>White 1995 4 cyl Mazda Precidia with A/C, standard, new alternator & starter. Has tinted windows, large exhaust, has had oil changes and tune ups done regularly. Comes with brand new Yokahoma Winter tires & summer tires, also has 17” Konig rims and Yokahoma low profile tires that fit with the car (can be negotiable) Needs to be sold ASAP. Asking 10,000 obo (without the rims).
Please call 204-9246 anytime and leave a message.<p>
if anyones interested.