recipe for tuned NA motor (all-motor)

[marshmallow15]

anything missing or should be added? i reconsidered boost to stay away from trouble with cops if they ask to lift the hood.<p>full 2.25" exhaust
gude camshaft
festiva motorsports sohc header or hurricane mild-steel hearder ceramic coated
valves
festivamotorsports sohc cam gear (compatible??)
paeco titanium retainers
volvo vs-855 valve springs
apexi s-afc
bullfrog big bore throttlebody (or aftermarket tb fitted to custim I/M)
custom sheetmetal intake manifold (or individual runner throttlebodies if labor costs are close)
fuel pressure regulator
2nd gen rx-7 fuel pump
aftermarket radiator
90-94 protege lx: injectors, lightened flywheel, tranny, axles, ecu
oil cooler
bigger fuel rail
2nd gen non-turbo maf
ported cylinder head
unorthodox UDP
mazdaspeed motormounts
deves steel rings
paeco copper head gasket
paeco titanium pistons
paeco titanium rods
sun auto hyper ground system
msd 6al
msd blaster 2 coil
k&n cone filter
maybe a dash of 50-75hp shot if i cant reach a 130whp goal?<p>also if i can get a hold of a dohc i found, i might add some hks miata cam gears or mazdaspeed cam gears and the corksport camshafts.<p>seem like a recipe for a workable buildup? i expect this to be maybe a year project because of the money i have leftover after paying off insurance and monthly cell phone bills and for rx7 insurance/mx-3 show expenses.

[OsoSlo z28]

what does boost have anything to do with getting in trouble with the cops, whether they open your hood or not??

[92RedMX3]

If they do they will think he is a racer, plus if he is in cali everything must have a # to show it is smog legal including something as simple as a cold air intake tube and filter.

[OsoSlo z28]

he's worried about being marked as a racer by the cops because of a turbo, but is thinking about putting a nitrous bottle in the back? <p>i understand about things having to have a carb exempt # or being carb legal.

[maldo]

The Volvo VS-855 springs only are known to work on the DOHC heads of the B6 and BP, I strongly doubt that they will work. A sheetmetal manifold is a waste of money for your application, your major restriction lies in the head. It will take a lot of work to surpass what the stock manifold can supply. I would skip the $600-700usd for the manifold and opt for an IRTB setup. Not sure if you have considered this or not but with an IRTB setup, you need a new computer..ie. TEC, MOTEC, HALTEC, etc. Aftermarket rad is somewhere that you could forego a cost, you won't surpass the stock unit unless you are going full out road racing. Titanium pistons and rods? If your going to spend the money, why not go carbonfibre? Carillo, Crower and Pauter all make great rods with proven designs (although Pauter from an engineering standpoint is garbage).

[marshmallow15]

i was considering the IRTB if the costs were close to the cost of a custom i/m. i might go with that and then do some research on motec or haltech.<p>oh and about that nitrous bottle, i was plannin to put it in my spare tire well and maybe hide the nozzles under the i/m if its possible.

[Manach]

Ok, I'll try to help you out with that. I must assume I don't hold the ultimate truth, but here what I would do about some items you wish to change.<p> <blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by marshmallow15:
<p>full 2.25" exhaust
festiva motorsports sohc header or hurricane mild-steel hearder ceramic coated valves
festivamotorsports sohc cam gear (compatible??)<p>2nd gen rx-7 fuel pump
bigger fuel rail<p>aftermarket radiator
90-94 protege lx: injectors, lightened flywheel, tranny, axles, ecu<p>maybe a dash of 50-75hp shot if i cant reach a 130whp goal?
<hr></blockquote><p>Ok, Exhaust too big, you won't have a turbo, and it was discuss that 2.25 would be enough for turbo.. So maybe a 2" would be better. expecialy since you want to reach over 130whp.<p>For the festivamotorsport items.. Make sure that they fit, phone them! Well, they speak of the b6 indeed, but the 8 valves one. I over check there head on the project they got, and it was 8 valves all the way, from a 323... So, don't be shy, send them a message, or phone them.. I would.<p>And now, about the Pump and fuelrail, why ? It was stated that it would be enough with the stock one to go to 250bhp. lose 15% to mechanics, and that's 217whp. I would look into the FuelPump of a scrap GS though. Well, they support 125bhp, and over! I miss an information if the RS fuel pump is the same as the GS one.. if it is.. well, keep the pump, and change nothing to the rail. Instead maybe, I had a project of putting to pump, on the same fuelrail.. I'll keep you inform if I do it before you, and you want to know about.<p>For the radiator, I would keep it. it is working for you engine right now. And when they are designing that piece, they must accept a certain variability on the fabric. Is the GS rad the same rad as a RS ? if so, keep it.<p>And you speak of Protege part.. I wouldn't go there. Well, you want piece for a B6 engine, not a BP. I know some BP parts fit, but they might need some custom there. Go check it the 323 engine didn't receive those items. Maybe the 121 or Ford festiva or Aspire got parts too. You want to work on a B6, work with B6 parts.<p>Now, you'll get more air in. Put a direct ram air to a filter. Stick the fuel pressure to 42 psi, and raise timing to 18. Well, Claude as done it, seems like he is in that setup for quite a while, and running about 110hp, with everything stock, except the Ram and Filter. That's from his saying.. I didn't see any dyno from that, but seems is saying right. I'll confirm with him. <p>So, you want over 130whp? with the current engine you got, a 50hp shot will get you there.. but, changing part will help you keep your engine nice and running for a longer period of time.<p>Well, keep us confirm!

[boostedmx]

dont go with the copper headgasket from paeco for .1- they suck 2-they are thicker than your stock headgasket and will lower compression thus lowering power 3-you dont need it. if your stock headgasket blows your doing something wrong.

[TopGun]

good luck dude, but most of your list is sh*t...<p>You're not gonna make very much power from those mods... then again I'm not sure what you're planning on doing. Use the Apex SAFC to inject lots of fuel and advance your timing ridiculously - run on 94 octane? It looks like header/exhaust/cams... not much power on a 1.6L engine there...<p>good luck

[Manach]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>but most of your list is sh*t...
<hr></blockquote><p>Now, may I ask to stop bashing peoples projects? Telling why some pieces of his list won't work is better to him than saying that will be "sh*t"...<p>We all know that N/A won't be as powerful as a SuperCharged, or TurboCharged car. Now, If you read what he was saying, he wants the N/A route.. so let him out on the N/A route.<p>Funny, I was planning on such a swap in a lighter car than the Mx-3, so this help far more better then one person. This post might be recover in a year, maybe two later. We dont know.<p>But please, before saying personnal comments on a product, please, state why. I'll be one to listen more. Peeps that know me know that I'm stuborn, and until I don't receive any proof of the contrary, I'll say that's pretty impressive on what he listed. And you see what is goal is, 130whp... He doesn't want a trillion Hp.. <p>Now Marsh, continue your good work! I wish you'll reach what you want <p>[ December 24, 2002: Message edited by: Manach ]</p>

[Manach]

Now, forget to tell..<p>do a weight reduction project too.. 100 lbs is suppose to be like gaining 6hp.. our car is around 2100-2200 lbs, and you should be able to get it to 1800lbs only by removing small parts..

[992mmx3]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Manach:
[QB]Ok, I'll try to help you out with that. I must assume I don't hold the ultimate truth, but here what I would do about some items you wish to change.<p> <p>Ok, Exhaust too big, you won't have a turbo, and it was discuss that 2.25 would be enough for turbo.. So maybe a 2" would be better. expecialy since you want to reach over 130whp.<p>Granted on your 1st comment, same goes for me, but how the f*&$ is having less air flow out of your exhaust helpful, a thing that some old hot rodders like to say is, more backpressure=more torque, this simply is not true. more airflow=more hp is more like it

[Manach]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 992mmx3:
Granted on your 1st comment, same goes for me, but how the f*&$ is having less air flow out of your exhaust helpful, a thing that some old hot rodders like to say is, more backpressure=more torque, this simply is not true. more airflow=more hp is more like it<hr></blockquote><p>Indeed, I can explain from my point of view.<p>Ok, now, air is moving everywhere freely, around us.. the air we breath, the wind, and so on. If some place lack the air, some new air will come to take up the place. (oki, english is not good here, so in french is "La pression tente de devenir uniforme".)<p>In a engine, we are pushing air in pulse, not in flow, every rotation of a a pistion create a pulse. In a 4 cylinders engine, there is 2 pulses, as 2 cylinders move up together.<p>So, now, with those pulse, between each of them, there is some lack of pression, which pull the pulse outside, or inside.. Why that?<p>There is two air mass we must consider, the one from the engine, and the one at the end of the pipe. If the engine is not pushing those pulse of air outside strong enough, the air at the end of the pipe will tend to push back the air back into the engine. Between every pulses, there is a chance to push the air back into the engine. That's the backpressure we heard all about.<p>Now, if the air is not enough strong, to compensate, we can, either increase the air being push by the engine, or narrow the pipe to lessen the impact of the pression between the pulses. The pulses will have to fill in the lack of pression, inside the pipe, which won't let the air mass at the end of the pipe push the air back in.<p>So, we wish to increase hp, more air mass will be burn, and push. He want to get over higher the original spec, so, if the pipe isn't big enough, the engine will be force to push air, and won't move it freely, indirectly, less hp gain. So, yes, he need to increase the pipe.<p>We also have discuss in other thread we shall be enlarging the pipe with Turbo. Turbo push air in the engine, and help the engine to push it a little more than a N/A engine. Now, the best option was, 2 1/4, or 2 1/2. So, with a N/A engine, less air flow.. and a bigger pipe will create the effect of a back pressure. That's why I suggest the 2" pipe.<p>Hope that clarify my thoughts

[thebonestockkid]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 992mmx3:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Manach:
[QB]Ok, I'll try to help you out with that. I must assume I don't hold the ultimate truth, but here what I would do about some items you wish to change.<p> <p>Ok, Exhaust too big, you won't have a turbo, and it was discuss that 2.25 would be enough for turbo.. So maybe a 2" would be better. expecialy since you want to reach over 130whp.<p>Granted on your 1st comment, same goes for me, but how the f*&$ is having less air flow out of your exhaust helpful, a thing that some old hot rodders like to say is, more backpressure=more torque, this simply is not true. more airflow=more hp is more like it<hr></blockquote><p>
That may be true in a sense, but you WILL lose low-end torque and probably mid range torque on the rev band if your exhaust piping is too big, and let's face it, thats where our cars (both 4cyl. and V6) need it the most.. just my .2cents lates

[anjin1982]

just a reply to the weight its 2400 not 2100-2200 200lbs make a diff.!