[WTB] KLZE Engine

[icajewler]

I'm having a hard time finding a true klze. I've looked at three so far and they all had mismatched manifolds cams and pistons. I want the real klze j-spec. Any direction for me out there?

[Daninski]

Ah, might help if we knew where you lived and how about a little introduction as well. We are social here.
Finally, anyone want to chime in on the 'true ze' question.

[icajewler]

I live in Iredell Statesville NC and basically build cars in my free time. (which will be non-existent when i fix my back and continue my Army Ranger training) I don't really have any money and was really just wanting to know how the mx3 market was doing these days, along the lines of finding out if there are any full kits (KLZE direct install) left.

[Daninski]

Ze is still a drop in mod with of course upgraded clutch and either chipped ecu, KL31/36 ecu or go with the KLDE ecu and KL02 vaf. If your swapping into a 96/97 V6 OBD2 MX3 then simply use a KL02 vaf and your stock ecu,,,,,,next question!

[icajewler]

I've found a rust bucket of a 93 gs. I'm looking for the absolute most power you can pull out of this car. That is my current project. My next one will be a turbo k8. But for this one i want it to be a work horse. What are the steps i should take?

[Daninski]

First off check the underside particularly where the rear trailing arms attach for rust then decide if the repair is within not only your capability but is it worth it. If you plan to turbo most go with a KLDE from a Probe, MX-6 or 626. Turboing is not as dependable of course however you could also consider NOS. Check out the worklogs here we have a couple of good turbo write ups. Good Luck

[icajewler]

I found an engine that cones with everything on the list below. It came from a 626. What do i need to change on it?

Complete Engine
- Cylinder Head
- Long Block
- Intake Manifold
- Sensors
- Exhaust Manifold
- Fuel Rail
- Injectors
- Distributor
- Throttle Body
- Alternator
- Ignition Wires
- Pulleys
- Valve cover
- Oil Pan

[Daninski]

Nothing slam that baby in however I would suggest replacing the timing belt, tensioner and water pump first. It's very easy when the motor is out of the car and a royal b---- when it's in the car. Don't forget your K8 clutch won't handle the extra power so buy a stage 1 or 2 your choice. Exedy is very popular. Use your disty however the one on the DE should be the same. Use the JE50 vaf unless you go with the 626 ecu (prefered) then like I said use the KL02 then.

For some additional info start reading this section. viewforum.php?f=23

[SuperK]

The 626 had two different versions of the KL engine. I would avoid the later 98+ engine. The solid lifters clack like a mother when the miles build up...
... and adjusting valve lash is always a fun adventure that I wouldn't care to perform.
Of course, this is all noise depending what the engine costs. How much?

I would suggest looking for a KL from the Millenia.

[Daninski]

I would suggest looking for a KL from the Millenia.

Why?

[SuperK]

Convenience mostly.
My opinion (which you don't have to agree with. It's OK if you would rather be wrong )
is IF you have a choice between the two, KLG4 shouldn't be your first choice.

The intake manifold isn't hard to get working. but ideally, you'll be ordering a millennia throttle body and modifying it to fit properly, which is inconvenient and more $$.
Then, you'll be facing the question of whether to use some super-sharp intake bends to clear the battery (which can't be good for performance), or relocate the battery which either is inconvenient and more $$.
The solid lifters are not conducive to longevity and are not easy to service. All 626 solid lifters will need to be readjusted if you want a quieter engine. None will have their valve lash readjusted within their given maintenance windows, which is inconvenient and more $$ to maintain.

There are a few bits and pieces which are missing, such as the oil cooler on the oil filter mount, no oil splash guard inside the oil pan, cast crank, importantly torqued bolts which once had washers don't have washers...

Which a lot of it isn't a big deal, but it makes me believe the objective of designing the KLG4 was to simplify and cut production costs, as well as make changes to adhere to emissions and regulations, while keeping the same performance as the previous generation.


And none of these reasons are a deal breaker by any means.

However, placing a well maintained KLG4 next to a well maintained KLDE from a Millenia for the exact same price... I would recommend the engine from the Millenia. It would be a more affordable, convenient choice to install for identical performance.

These options in my opinion would benefit the OP, who stated, "I really don't have any money..."

[icajewler]

I'm thinking about the klde because it seems like a somewhat easier engine to obtain and maintain. It's going to be heavily boosted and run into the ground almost every week. A monthly to bi-monthly rebuild is going to happen. But if there is another option for the type of performance I'm looking for, i would like to learn and possibly pursue it. Any type of help will be appreciated.

I don't work on cars like a technical mechanic or a daily grease monkey. If i had time i would love to. I know enough to fix them but not enough to re-engineer or build. However, i an attempting to learn and build a race car out of my mx3. I don't think I'm cut out for it, but I'm going to try.

[SuperK]

Start scrolling through Probetalk. You'll get terrifyingly biased and uneducated opinions on boosting a KL here. Don't get me wrong, Probetalk has tons of biased opinions, but you will be able to scroll through a few worklogs of 400-500HP KL engines and how they're built.
Here, you'll get a bunch of nonsense about how they can't handle the power and something about going BP.
This place is a great resource for BPs and KL swaps... but building a strong KL... haha, notsomuch.
I don't think a boosted KL is for you. It involves money... and if you don't have cash... well, haha...

[MrMazda92]

I'm thinking about the klde because it seems like a somewhat easier engine to obtain and maintain. It's going to be heavily boosted and run into the ground almost every week. A monthly to bi-monthly rebuild is going to happen. But if there is another option for the type of performance I'm looking for, i would like to learn and possibly pursue it. Any type of help will be appreciated.

I don't work on cars like a technical mechanic or a daily grease monkey. If i had time i would love to. I know enough to fix them but not enough to re-engineer or build. However, i an attempting to learn and build a race car out of my mx3. I don't think I'm cut out for it, but I'm going to try.

Well, you are more honest about your abilities than many on here... Some claim to know very little, when in reality they are the pioneers, and other claim technical mastery because they bolted on boost.

Honestly, get yourself setup with a running KL swapped MX-3. That's my advice to you... Work on the car little by little, and don't bite off more than you can chew.

How do I know this? My car hasn't driven down the road for 369 days, and my own obsession with changing each and every little thing is the root cause. 3 engines, some ridiculously over-complicated suspension work(that I primarily did for aesthetic reasons, *cough*), and a never-ending to-do list have plagued me over the past year.

If you love the car enough to sink more money into it, plan for either a ~200WHP NA build, or a 300 WHP boosted build. The transmission is the weak link, but it should handle 300WHP if you don't drive like a jackass. As for costs, all motor you're looking at about $1,200+ the cost of your initial swap. Boost will be about a grand more, if you're patient and buy name brand parts at a discounted rate.

Good luck to you man! For what it's worth, I really hope you will boost the K8. I have been planning an a-typical K8 build for a while now, and it's actually looking to be a hell of a project... Too bad mine will likely never come to fruition.

[mazdaspeed23]

I have a spare KLZE sitting in the garage. I was going to rebuild it but don't have time right now. however the engine is ripped apart but I do have everything nuts bolts, etc. Really all it needs is to have a rebuild kit. $200 on rockauto. put the engine back together and you got a perfect engine.