Probe trans, whats it good for?

[libtechsplit]

hi everyone

I have a 96 mx-3 GS with a blown K8 in it. I have access to a KLZE , but it has a probe trans bolted to it. Is there any use for that trans in mx-3 world? or should i try and get the guy to split them up for me ( which might be tough.) I have been focusing all my reading on the motor swap, but i need to decide quick if i should take that transmission as part of the deal. i know i should be searching and reading haha, but like i say its time sensitive, so i was hoping you'd help a newb out.

thanks

[RobMinhas]

Probe trans will work I'm an mx3. I think you will need the trans side mount too though. I'm also like 85 percent sure k8 axles won't work though.

I'd say get it. Spare trans tha gut your car are always nice.

[Sleeper6]

Probe trans will work just use your k8 input shaft that bolts to the block.

[libtechsplit]

thanks guys. would it be considered an upgrade over the original 5spd? or is it the same unit, basically. i would assume it is built to handle more power?

and i'd have to source some probe axles? is that a hybrid axle that has to get made from both the old and new, or just use the probe axles as is.?

[SuperK]

the Probe GT transmission is pretty much the same thing as your K8 transmission. It will use the same axles, and has the same gearing.

The MX-6/626 transmission has some taller gearing and is more desirable because of it.

[libtechsplit]

the Probe GT transmission is pretty much the same thing as your K8 transmission. It will use the same axles, and has the same gearing.

The MX-6/626 transmission has some taller gearing and is more desirable because of it.

ok thank you. so if i pull the K8 with trans attached, then install the klze with its trans attached, it should be a straight bolt in as far as the transmission is concerned? no suprises or extra parts needed to be grabbed from the junk yard? (like the side mount that Rob mentions?) the best i can say is that this is an early 90's trans, since the motor is OBD1. my car is a 96.

also, on a side note - if i have access to both a hoist and a crane, is it easier to come out the top or drop out the bottom with both engine and trans at the same time? i'm guessing bottom...

[Sleeper6]

Easiest way in my opinion is drop the trans off the bottom and then pull the motor out the top, it gives you a whole lot more room to work with and would be easiest. If not you can pull the whole assm out the top but be carefull when you go past the brake booster, also would rec. pulling the radiator and fan assmb. out while your at it for the extra room. Dropping it from bottom is not recommended, there is a factory tab built into the rh strut tower to support the motor on the motor mount should something fail, ie you wont accomplish dropping it out the bottom.

Be sure to reposition the KLZE knock sensor wire back to the belt side ( you may have to pull the intake off to do this) and to check at the filler neck by the timing covers to make sure if you need to swap that assm. for the 1 or 2 coolant sensor style. Transmission mounts will be the safe to use from the mx3, just be sure while its out to flip the bolt to the rear mount in case you ever need to change it in the future other wise it requires transmission removal to accomplish. Oh and be sure to check your intermediate shaft, might have to be swapped most probes were 2 bolt not 3 bolts so there might be a discrepency.

[RobMinhas]

I'd pull the rad and fan assembly to pull it out of the top, lining up a trans on the bottom can be a massive f---ing pain in the a--. Get an extra set of hands to guide it and you'll be set, not much more work to pull rad and fans, like six small ten mm bolts on the top of the rad support.

[SuperK]

Out the top for sure. Pull it with the trans attached to the engine.
Remove the radiator like rob suggests.
Underneath, remove the shift linkage, drain the transmission fluid, remove the crossmember so you have access to the rear transmission mount bolts. Remove the front and rear transmission mount bolts. remove the CV axles. Remove the manifold bolts. You may have to break them off do use a breaker bar. The manifold will be replaced with some headers you can get cheap anyways so don't consider reusing what you have.
Then use the engine lift, attach it to the engine, make sure its slightly taught, remove the power steering hose, remove the top engine and transmission mount. Lift the engine slightly up and slightly forward. Remove the rear power steering bolt/hose.
Check for any hoses/wiring harnesses you may have missed or forgot before continuing. Then pull it out the rest of the way.


If possible save for a longer gear transmission since you want to go KL anyways.
Also remember if you are not rebuilding an engine, a ZE will have longevity/a whole less miles that. A junkyard DE.
A junkyard DE, if you are planning on rebuilding anyways, can be upgraded with ZE pistons and cams to more or less be a ZE.
You will also want an intake manifold and throttle body off the millennia, so ideally a millennia DE would be the better option out of the other DEs out there.

[RobMinhas]

Just in my experience, it's fairly easy to remove a k8 without removing a crossmember, just leave the mount on the engine but installing it without removing the crossmember is a PITA.

Might save you some time if pulling an engine and transaxle from a JY or parts car.