KLZE oil

[ramsen25]

which is best for the ze 520 530 or 1030

[Newfie_dan]

whatever it says on the oil cap is what you stick to.

[mikeinaus]

olive oil is dope. makes your exhaust smell nice too.

[Nd4SpdSe]

I used quakerstate. I think I was using 5w40 at the end.

[Daninski]

Temp is the deciding factor. !0w 30 in hot climates and 5w 30 in cold. For our summer driving 30 being the optimum number in the viscosity equation. Some performance oils want you to use 40w in their oils. I think thicker isn't always better.

[_-Night-Shade-_]

0W-30 ideally, if not then 5W-30.

[Daninski]

I just realized who this is. Ramsen25 your back from where was it, Brazil, Panama. Some where like that. Decided to move back?

[mx3autozam]

Temp is the deciding factor. !0w 30 in hot climates and 5w 30 in cold. For our summer driving 30 being the optimum number in the viscosity equation. Some performance oils want you to use 40w in their oils. I think thicker isn't always better.

The reason some performance driving oils are 40w or even 50w is because in extreme extreme cases like road racing were you are at extreme high temps and revs a normal 30w will thin out too much and blow by and not lubricate as much. same thing on most cars that are boosted. high temps and high p[ressures inside the cylinders.

On the ze best to stick with a 10w30 in summer and 5w30 in winter.its up to you to pick weather you want stynthetic or conventional.

[ramsen25]

hey dude went out training getting ready for a fight in montreal apr 16 lol i actually just bought another mx3 with not even a spot of rust on it for $100 the guys like theres a problem hes like theres no engine or tranny in it. lool im like perfectttttttttt so im pulling my ze out and putting it in. i think im gonna turbo this summer wuts the max boost u think i can run on the ze without worrying about damaging it

[RX8SE3P]

As said before, weather is deciding factor. Dunno why anyone would pick 5W-30 over something like 5W-50. What's the difference apart from the 5W-50 being able to withstand much higher temps....???

Eg. Mobil1 5W-50 is cheaper than Mobil1 5W-30. I have no idea why. Is 5W-30 actually thinner at cold temps?

[Evo_Spec]

Dunno why anyone would pick 5W-30 over something like 5W-50. What's the difference apart from the 5W-50 being able to withstand much higher temps....???

Eg. Mobil1 5W-50 is cheaper than Mobil1 5W-30. I have no idea why. Is 5W-30 actually thinner at cold temps?

50 doesn't mean it can withstand higher temps than 30, 50 means that it's thicker than 30, so at higher temperatures 50 may still be viscous enough to properly lubricate your system as 30 at the same high temperature would not be viscous enough to properly lubricate the system (or "stick" to the engine parts)
The same goes for lower temperatures as well, 50 at lower temperatures would be too viscous to properly flow through your engine where as 30 at that lower temp would be less viscous allowing it to properly flow through your engine
It's all about viscousity and what temperature your going to be operating at (exp. daily driving or racing)

[_-Night-Shade-_]

As said before, weather is deciding factor. Dunno why anyone would pick 5W-30 over something like 5W-50. What's the difference apart from the 5W-50 being able to withstand much higher temps....???

Eg. Mobil1 5W-50 is cheaper than Mobil1 5W-30. I have no idea why. Is 5W-30 actually thinner at cold temps?

Are you serious??? Please tell me you DON'T use 5W-50 in your MX-3.

[RX8SE3P]

I've got 10W-40 in my MX6 and 15W-40 in the MX3 (running in rebuild on mx3) Soon putting in 10W-30.

The weather is hot here (summer right now). I got 5W-40 full synthetic for my gfs focus.

I'm just saying, the oil gets thinner as things get hot, too thin = poor lubrication. Correct? Considering we get some days of 40 degrees C outside, inside the engine is probably more like double that. Surely 10W40 is better than 10W30? They both flow the same in the cold, as the 10W (winter) denotes.

Dunno I am no expert but surely 5W-50 fully synthetic Mobil1 is safe to use in summer? Especially if it's friggen hot and you've revving out to over 6k often?

[_-Night-Shade-_]

No, don't even bring HOT weather into this - as it's always gonna be hotter inside the engine than any outside temperature. COLD weather - yes, that's why you want to get as low of a W number as you can. From my research there still isn't an oil that is thin enough at low temperatures to provide adequate lubrication so miniscule cold-start wear is inevitable, BUT the closer you can get the better, which is 0W and synthetic. Unless you're gonna be revving the hell out of your engine, using anything higher than 30 will mean it won't have the right viscosity (too thin) at operating temperatures to provide proper lubrication, and you prematurely wear out the moving parts.

Now, it gets tricky: Let's say you've got a really worn out engine and it's burning a little bit of oil or whatever - the moving parts have already worn out as to have more clearence between them and now 30 is TOO THIN at operating temperatures - now you might need to upgrade to 5W-40. However, don't go assuming this - this is where the help of oil temperature and oil pressure gauges come into play. But considering that you have a fully rebuilt engine you should NOT be using anything higher than 30 on it.

[RX8SE3P]

You simply can't, or will severely struggle to get 0W-30 or even 5W-30 in non synthetic. The lowest viscosity mineral oil I can find is 10W-30. They say avoid using synthetic oil before 10,000 miles or so on a rebuild too... I definitely won't be touching synthetic for a while, I have not even remotely done that many miles. I've not even done 1/5th of that figure...

By the way there were a whole bunch of oils at the auto store saying stuff on the back like 5W-40 "EXTRA 10" etc. They specifically stated they were ideal for any cars that recommended the use of 5W-30 oils. I'm backing the oil companies knowledge here.

I really can't see there being much difference at all IMO. It's going to flow exactly the same when cold, but it has more potential to withstand heat, that's the way I look at it. The outside temp is the deciding factor. It states this in the owners manual. If it's 2 degrees C outside (35 F), the engine is going to be colder than if it's 44 degrees C outside (110+ Fahrenheit). So in winter I might agree with you, but in an Australian summer, I think you can definitely safely use 10W40 or 5W50 in our cars.

Either way, I will be running 10W-30 soon in my rebuilt engine, just castrol mineral as winter is coming in a couple months. After maybe 8-10,000kms I might give synthetic a shot.