Hard to track defrost problem.

jkbreazeale · Post by **jkbreazeale** » November 21st, 2009, 10:24 pm

Ha! That's fine I don't mind using the search feature. Builds character

Chapman2 · Post by **Chapman2** » March 23rd, 2010, 10:00 am

You would measure it for resistance with a voltmeter. You can get one for less than 20 bucks. You need the values in the Samsung manual for the fridge which is available online all over. You have to be sure to set the meter for the expected range. I had it wrong and misread it to be open, so I replaced the defrost sensor, only to find out it was not bad. Again, if it continues to ice up everyday, it is likely because the defrost element is never coming on because it is burnt out.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » March 23rd, 2010, 9:04 pm

$10 on the RELAY.

jkbreazeale · Post by **jkbreazeale** » March 23rd, 2010, 11:38 pm

... oops. I solved the problem a couple months ago. It was the relay. Her led went out on the button so you never knew if it was on or not, so there would be times where it would just stay on and drain the battery. Pulled the relay and it fried the wires and the relay it self... working on finding a replacement bulb for the button right now.

Newfie_dan · Post by **Newfie_dan** » March 24th, 2010, 11:58 pm

I got this 1. The reason why the relay burns out is 2 fold. 1) The fuse that supplies constant power to that relay is 40 amps, the relay itself is a 20 amp relay hence the relay burns out before the fuse does. 2) The relay will give out prematurely anytime you exceed the rated amps, the supply fuse being 40 amps supplies the rear defrost and when the current draw exceeds the relay it burns up the contacts and results in relay failure, when it fails it almost always will burn the wiring and plug for it. So here is the solution; Put an inline fuse in the constant power supply for the relay that is equal to or lower than the relay's capability such as a 20 amp atc fuse. Or 2 put a lower rated fuse in that 40 amp slot say a 20 or 30 amp fuse with a 30 amp relay. The fuse will burn out before the relay does. The problem here though is that the maxi fuses for the engine bay fuse block usually do not come in anything lower than a 30 amp fuse. I know the second inline fuse is redundant but it solves the relay burning out problem just make sure that you match the gauge of the power supply wire for your inline fuse.

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Hard to track defrost problem.

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