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well I haven't been able to drive it yet since I'm halfway through replacing my ball joints... After spending alot of time at napa, schucks and baxter's I found the 92-93 ball joints I need online. Here's the differences between them. Not many stores have the 92-93 for some reason
92-93 Moog k9967 ball joint
94-96 Moog K8773 ball joint
and thank you jesse for helping me with the whiteline and everything else sorry I tend to take your help for granted and it was cool driving your car... you'll get to drive mine soon enough I'm really hoping I can make it to medford!
sorry i havn't bee browsing lately. I knew about the mfactory lsd but didn't think it was in production yet. where exactly do we get these from and what they cost?
I have one more sugestion about your engine. Replace your PCV valve. It appears you have abnormal crankcase pressure. Usually when the engine is toast the compression will be down. Hey its only $3.00
another interesting fact about this motor... it doesn't die without the PCV or caps on any of the PCV channels... it actually blows the caps off... that's how much extra pressure there is.
It's possessed! Can you see/smell any exhaust gas from the oil cap or PCV hole?
AZ-3 1498cc Turbo! EVO 8 turbo and manifold, 5 stud swap, SSR Type C, DIYPNP seq Megasquirt Mx-3 2.5 V6 Turbo 291 BHP 251 lbft @ 8psi - Retired due to rust and back at uni View Worklog
When the PCV is not connected you can see fumes coming out of all of the holes... I'm not sure if it is exhaust or what. It seems to run fine, but there is NO vacuum, it's just pressure coming out of the motor which leads me to believe it has a blown head gasket or misaligned/worn rings. I'm going to have to tear down the whole motor to see what is wrong with it - Something is definately not right...
I did a compression check - 195 across all cylinders, but I have enough excessive pressure that it's blowing the dipstick out and blowing the coolant out of the cooling system therefore I can't keep it running for long since it's not cooling properly
That sucks man, or blows I should say! Sure you've 2 mxs, tearing down is fun, in a way Think how tight that engine will be after. Do a bit of mild porting and polishing whilst you're in there. Maybe some interpreps or just DE springs too if you've the crap retainers in there. I'm surprised no one here has nailed your diagnosis though.
AZ-3 1498cc Turbo! EVO 8 turbo and manifold, 5 stud swap, SSR Type C, DIYPNP seq Megasquirt Mx-3 2.5 V6 Turbo 291 BHP 251 lbft @ 8psi - Retired due to rust and back at uni View Worklog
The motor already has a DE valvetrain, but yeah when I'm in there I'll probably do some work Page 15 of this worklog gives more details on the problem... http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... &start=210" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
including my weird dyno charts and stuff
Up until recently I didn't have any problems driving it, but now with it overheating it's not going anywhere.
Holy smokes that Helical LSD should be reallly really nice if it works as it should. 700 for it sounds really nice too. It is going to really wake the car up in any sort of turning under power type event.
If you need help with those skirts let me know. I am sure I can piece them back together. I would not plastic weld them. I would rivit a metal plate on the back side then fiberglass, fill and sand the front side. Odd that they cut them, but fixable I guess, so no real harm done. If you do the fiberglass, fill and sand with the skirts on the car it would easier. The only danger is that they bend when in shipping or installation which is going to open up the filled crack.
PS- anyone ever see Tunes any more? He dropped off the planet?
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
yeah I really haven't had a chance to update my worklogs. I had the JDM skirts repaired with fiberglass, I primed and installed them on the DD...
I finally took the time to figure out exactly which parts are going on which car (mainly aesthetics), I just need to post it up and explain why and what I've moved already. I know it's confusing already, but it's going even more difficult to determine which car is the RC and which car is the DD haha
I talk to Tunes occasionaly on the phone - he's just not had the time to get online - other priorities, but he's still got the mx and been doing some stuff to it!
so most of the transition of international parts is complete. (click here for details: http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy34 ... -15-09.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) The race car is getting all the unique CF parts (inside and out) and it also gets all the best unique race parts (LSD, CF hatch, adjustable cam pulleys, etc). I swapped front bumpers, but I need to get another euro support (see this thread for detail: http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=71740" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
I finally installed my pacesetter headers, a cat (to pass emissions) and a swappable test pipe for races as well as installing a megan GT muffler (same as on the DD). I just didn't like how the titanium janspeed sounded/looked I also recently got a mazdaspeed steering wheel for it.
In September I attended an autocross/drag/drift event up in Packwood WA, testing my new Kumho Ecsta XS
I'm hoping to be able to finish up the aesthetics next weekend, and that entails correctly installing the front bumper, fogs, tow hook and installing the full length sideskirts. Then repriming the whole thing bit that might have to wait until spring
Well during my time off this week I installed the euro support into the euro bumper, drilled the holes for the GS lip, installed the white set of fog lights, took off the fenders, realigned the side doors and and installed the full length sideskirts.