Room fuse keeps blowing

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » June 27th, 2009, 6:31 pm

Rarg.. had this problem in my black car.. never figured it out. Now out of the blue I have it in my car..

Here is what I noticed. I was at a stereo shop getting my now dead amp looked at. One of the installers there wiggled my terminals to make sure they were tight and checked connections there. After that the car was started and moved back, I was not driving but I noticed that the clock was blinking at 1:00... I figured oh, just the fuse is busted... So I went home and changed the fuse, and it worked. Went for a drive later and the fuse blew...

Replaced it again, this time with a 20a and it blew after abit of drivng as well. What is causing this!

_-Night-Shade-_ · Post by **_-Night-Shade-_** » June 27th, 2009, 11:43 pm

What exactly did they mess around with? Definitely a case of something not wired up right...

wagZE · Post by **wagZE** » July 24th, 2009, 6:36 pm

I'd check the deck pull it out and see if problem persists. That runs off the same circuit as the room fuse right? Maybe add a new ground for the deck in lower kick area. Route the power and ignition to the main ignition harness rather than the room fuse circuit. Good luck.

Inodoro Pereyra · Post by **Inodoro Pereyra** » July 24th, 2009, 6:56 pm

Solo_ryder: first, don't replace a fuse with one of a higher rating!!!.
Fuses are there FOR YOUR PROTECTION, and to protect the car's electrical system. If you use a higher rating fuse (in this case, the 20 A fuse you used in place of a 15 A one), you risk further damaging your electrical system, and in some cases, even a fire.

Second, the room fuse does not control the radio. If your amp was wired to this fuse, you may be overloading it. I'd suggest you get your amp wired through a different, dedicated fuse. There are at least 2 empty slots in your fuse panel you can use for it.

Meanwhile, disconnect the amp, and ride the car with the proper 15 A room fuse. If the fuse blows again, you should check the clock, the dome light, its connections and wires, and the rear compartment light and its wiring.

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » July 24th, 2009, 9:25 pm

I know all that, thanks for the help though. I was just trying to cut down the possibilities.

I just put in another fuse the other week and it has held fine since then. I think it had something to do with the battery terminals

Inodoro Pereyra · Post by **Inodoro Pereyra** » July 24th, 2009, 9:48 pm

solo_ryder wrote:I know all that, thanks for the help though. I was just trying to cut down the possibilities.

I just put in another fuse the other week and it has held fine since then. I think it had something to do with the battery terminals

Sorry. I guess I got a little carried away...

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » July 24th, 2009, 9:51 pm

Mine does that, i found a short in the harness that goes to the fuses.. its apain to get to.. I have yet to fix it..

Inodoro Pereyra · Post by **Inodoro Pereyra** » July 24th, 2009, 10:00 pm

Just a tip: sometimes you can fix the problem with a little nail polish. It's a great insulator (at least for the 12 V we have to deal with), sticks really well to cable, and it's elastic enough to last a long time.

Just don't let your friends catch you with it...

Evo_Spec · Post by **Evo_Spec** » July 24th, 2009, 10:02 pm

Inodoro Pereyra wrote:Just a tip: sometimes you can fix the problem with a little nail polish. It's a great insulator (at least for the 12 V we have to deal with), sticks really well to cable, and it's elastic enough to last a long time.

Just don't let your friends catch you with it...

didn't know you could use that, great tip, thx!

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » July 24th, 2009, 10:05 pm

EVO, I wanted to take you for a ride in my car when I went back to the meet but everyone was elsewhere in the park so I couldnt find you

next time!

Inodoro Pereyra · Post by **Inodoro Pereyra** » July 24th, 2009, 10:24 pm

Evo_Spec wrote:
Inodoro Pereyra wrote:Just a tip: sometimes you can fix the problem with a little nail polish. It's a great insulator (at least for the 12 V we have to deal with), sticks really well to cable, and it's elastic enough to last a long time.

Just don't let your friends catch you with it...
didn't know you could use that, great tip, thx!

You're welcome. It's just another old trick killed by technology, like the egg in the radiator, or the bubble gum for the gas tank.
I guess it just shows how old I am...

Evo_Spec · Post by **Evo_Spec** » July 24th, 2009, 11:37 pm

solo_ryder wrote:EVO, I wanted to take you for a ride in my car when I went back to the meet but everyone was elsewhere in the park so I couldnt find you

next time!

aw man, we were at the beach looking for girls! XD

Ninjaskill · Post by **Ninjaskill** » September 25th, 2009, 9:29 am

hgallegos915 wrote:Mine does that, i found a short in the harness that goes to the fuses.. its a pain to get to.. I have yet to fix it..

could you specify where you found this short?
i am having the same problem but i have a bad feeling that this is the culprit:

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » September 25th, 2009, 10:35 am

Mine was caused by what seems to be the door buzzer. It would beep then get all scrambly and I'd kick the dash and it would go back to beeping, but the fuse usually blew when that happened. I beat the crap out of my dash one day in a rage and I haven't blown a fuse since and my buzzer works now. It was tied into the alarm somehow, my alarm wouldn't work properly if it was scrambly.

_-Night-Shade-_ · September 25th, 2009, 6:19 pm

solo_ryder wrote:Mine was caused by what seems to be the door buzzer. It would beep then get all scrambly and I'd kick the dash and it would go back to beeping, but the fuse usually blew when that happened. I beat the crap out of my dash one day in a rage and I haven't blown a fuse since and my buzzer works now. It was tied into the alarm somehow, my alarm wouldn't work properly if it was scrambly.

You need some anger management! Hahah

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