Runs like crap and can't start when it warms up

[Mad Cow]

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[nightfire]

I recently replaced my timing belt and tensioner, I made sure that the marks are aligned, turned the crank pulley 2 revolutions and it was still aligned. When I tried to start it, it just flooded. At first it almost started a few times, then it flooded. I left it for a week in that state, I came back today and it almost started, it ran for a few seconds then died again. I thought it could be the igniter, so I did the HEI mod, but that didn't help, still almost starts and then floods.

So I'm getting fuel and spark, but it's just not starting. What could be the problem? Quick replies would be really helpful, all of my weekend plans depend on getting this car started today.

EDIT: I checked the compression after I changed the belt, it was between 150 and 160 on the front bank, cold obviously. Now I checked it again and it was closer to 130, after flooding it a few times trying to start it. I've heard that flooding it really badly might break down the oil in the cylinder and make compression too low to start, is 130 too low? I'm gonna try to add some oil to each cylinder, how much should I add? And how long should I wait for it to get un-flooded enough to add oil? It's near 0c in my garage.

This exact situation just happened to me. Compression fell after gas broke down the oil seal. In my case I just left it outside for too long and tried starting it with 2 dead batteries.

If you're sure your firing order/valve timing is correct, pull all the plugs out, clean them with alcohol and a rag. Spray compressed air into the cylinders for 5-10 seconds each to dry them out. You may want to pre-spray before pulling the plugs to make sure no gunk from the spark plug channels ends up in the cylinders. Then add 5-10 drops of light oil (ie. 5w20).. less than a teaspoon. Use a long eye dropper if you can. Unfortunately it'll only coat a small section of the cylinder wall, but unless you have an oil sprayer that's all you can do.

That worked for me.

If it's still giving you trouble, you could try putting a heater in your garage to bring the temperature up for a while (if you have power).

[Mad Cow]

See the newest post for the latest info

[nightfire]

Thanks, I put some oil into the cylinders (All I had was 0w40) and let it sit, it started for a second, then died, pulled the plugs and they were covered in oil, guess I put too much in. I'm about the clean the plugs and spray air into the cylinders, hopefully it'll start this time...

Careful not to put too much oil; it doesn't compress like a gas and can create immense pressure during the compression stroke.

If it still won't light up, you could try some carb cleaner in the intake during cranking. It burns much easier than gas.

[Mad Cow]

See the newest post for the latest info

[nightfire]

Ok, I think I'm cursed or something. Cleaned everything out, sprayed air in until I couldn't smell gas from the air coming out of the cylinder and it fired right up. Ran beautifully for almost a minute until the power steering pump started making noises, I shut it off the check the fluid level, topped it off, tried starting and it flooded again.

I took out the plugs, sprayed some air in again and I'm letting it sit overnight, hopefully it'll start in the morning.

Something's wrong.. Are you sure you're getting vacuum to your FPR?

[mazdags94]

Did you remove the IM when doing the work you described? I would check your fuel injectors to make sure they are all up to par. I bad injector could be dumping in too much fuel. Also, make sure all your harnesses are tight, such as the coolant temp sensor because that works with the ECU to figure out how much fuel to dump in.

That sound coming from the power steering pump area could be just your belt being too loose. (is it squaky??, if so then its prolly a belt that's loose, just tighten the tensioner).

Def check into the fuel delivery system if you're getting spark.

[Mad Cow]

See the newest post for the latest info

[nightfire]

I didn't touch the IM. Also, it worked perfectly before. What I noticed with this car is that when it floods, it'll keep flooding until you let it run for a while. Maybe it could be that the PRC solenoid is disconnected, but I've seen vacuum diagrams of the ZE that don't have it connected, and it doesn't light up the CEL with my KL31 ECU chip, but it does give me a code. I might as well try connecting it.

You can always bypass the solenoid and go straight to vacuum... that'll just maintain the lower pressure full time and eliminate it as a possibility.

[Mad Cow]

I didn't even have the solenoid in the vacuum system before. But now I really do think it's an injector problem, it started today, I let it run for while but accidentally stalled it and it flooded again. So screw it, I'm replacing fuel rails. The DE rails are the same right?

[mx3boyze]

Yeah the DE Injectors are the same.

[Mad Cow]

What about the fuel rails themselves?

[Trevor]

Pull a small vacuume line and start it up if it's stalling because of to much fuel this will lean it out and it should run and clear out the system. After that I would look at the condition of your cap, Rotor, plugs, and wires.

[Mad Cow]

See the newest post for the latest info

[OdinMW]

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