VICS and Idle

[mdgain]

I have a 94 1.6L DOCH. I am looking for a VICS solenoid if someone would point me in the right direction.

Also, I have been all over this site trying to find an answer to the Idle issue. That is the Idle drops really low when any electrical load is on.(i.e. brakes, a/c, defroster, power windows, ect..) I have had a recent tune-up to include all the basics. I have set my TPS, cleaned my IAC and throttle body, my battery and alternator both checked good, and the only code my ecu spits out is 41. Which is the VICS #1. The solenoid did check Bad but surely this would not be the cause of my idling problem....would it?

[shameem]

Clean up ground points and add more grounds.

The VICS operates above 4750 RPM -

Best bet to get a solenoid is to hit up junkyards - any solenoid that routes vacuum will work - you just have to find one that matches up to your connector - if you cant find one - you can get the connector and splice it into your harness - polarity doesnt matter.

For temporary fix - you can unplug the connector and put a 33 ohm resistor on the connector - that will get rid of the code.

Also check to make sure that the vacuum lines are good and leak proof.

[mdgain]

I have added two 8 gauge ground wires already. One from the battery to the chassis and another from the engine to the chassis.

I have done the WD-40 trick and couldn't find any leaks. My hoses are in good condition and I even went as far as replacing the accordion section of the air inlet tube with a metal section.

So what should I try next. I'm open for any suggestions. Thanks in advance for the advice!

[mdgain]

OH and I forgot to mention, my resonator is gurgling, but I don't think that would affect my idle!?!

[shameem]

Connect a voltmeter up to the battery - have the car running and monitor the voltage when you are having idle problems - if the voltage dips below 13v then your voltage regulator (inside the alternator) and or battery maybe shot. How did you test your battery/alt?

The intake resonator does make some noise - it is there to dampen pressure waves caused by abrupt closing of intake valves.

Also two 8AWG wires are not enough - this is an old car and the factory grounds are probably corroded to hell. You need to clean up old grounds and add a few more new grounds. Especially one on top of the tranny, one close to the disty and one close to the alternator.

[mdgain]

I just had Autozone test them but I was standing on the brakes with the a/c full blast, and it still checked good.

I will add a few more grounds and let you know!

Thanks

[Mi|<E]

Try unplugging your IAC vavle on the throttle body. That usually fixes the idle up downs
and since its summer its not really necessary for the car to idle high to warm up.

[mdgain]

Thats a good temp fix, but anal as I am I kind of want it fixed. Its not something I'm proud of!

[Mi|<E]

Ive had 6 throttle bodies, mix of B6 and BP, and all the IAC's have not worked.

[Daninski]

If you post a pic, I'm going to the Wreckers in the morning (Sat), I'll see if the 4cyl mx3 has what you need.

[mdgain]

Do they go bad that frequently? When I start the engine cold, it idles high and slowly comes down as the engine warms up. Doesn't that mean it is working or is it the coolant sensor part of it that goes bad?

[mdgain]

Thanks Daninski but your asking for something way above my computers ability. This damn thing was the first computer ever built

If it is a 1.6L DOHC from any Mazda model it will have one. It is mounted on a plate with the PRC solenoid on the left side of the intake. (Looking in from the radiator)

I would appreciate anything you can come up with. There is only one wrecking yard out of about 30 in my area that have an MX-3 and it just happens to have a 2.0L in it. Go Figure

[shameem]

Does the idle change happen only when brakes are pressed? Try switching on various stuff without pressing brakes. You may have a vacuum leak in the brake booster or the brake lights may be taking up too much juice (4x24w + 3x12w).

The alternator is usually load tested outside the car on a special rig. Try this - when the engine is running - disconnect the battery positive - the engine should stay running with just the alternator supplying the power (If you put any electrical load the engine will shut off). If the engine runs then its time to look into a new battery or do some serious maintenance on the old battery.

[Mi|<E]

By not working I meant causes the idle fluctuations. My bad sometimes
I don't communicate goodly.

[mdgain]

No, the Idle changes with any electrical load and just gets worse with each additional load that is added. My "little engine that could", tries to compensate but it just can't or won't for whatever reason.