I forgot I had put a wire in the diagnostic terminal to read the codes and tried to start the car. It won't start now. What might I have blown?
*edit* I have found that this is not a problem for these cars. My problem is the EGR system. Please read on if you know anything about EGR systems.
Fried Something with Diagnostic pin jumped
Fried Something with Diagnostic pin jumped
Last edited by Robotaz on November 16th, 2007, 5:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
OK, I just got it to start, but it's missing and pissed off bad. I floored it when I cranked it and it started fine. Originally, I was replacing the EGR solenoids. I started it with the EGR valve connected to the solenoids and it ran like crap(indicating the EGR valve is most likely shot, to me). It ran fine before, except the CEL was coming on at highway speeds. It's throwing a 16, EGR valve position sensor, but I tested it and it passed. I had gotten solenoid CELs before, so I changed them. Now, I can't get it to run ok like it was. Could the plugs be that fouled? When it was struggling to idle the revs would go up and down. I can rev it up and it sounds smooth to me.
I changed the plugs and took it for a long enough drive to get everything as hot as it gets. Amazingly, the CEL went off and there aren't any idling problems now even though it had to be started with the pedal floored and it idled horribly at startup. I need someone who knows how the EGR valve works, or who's already gone through this, to provide a little advice. Does this behavior sound right? I am getting a CEL code 16, which is the EGR valve position sensor. The only reason I need to know is because the EGR valve costs $350 and I'm terrified that it won't fix the problem. Is it possible if I find the EGR valve at a junk yard to just install the position sensor? Any help would be great. THanks.