I am one of those who got screwed by Tiger Japanese Auto Parts. I found out to late
I got a regular KLDE engine with the DE heads. They fooled me by putting a curved neck ZE manifold mounted on top of it.
I am doing some sort of a rebuild on the top of the engine and I'm wondering what I should do since the heads already are out. They are for now sent for a regrind and some work on the valves. I also attend to port the intake on the heads as a transition to the square ZE manifold with a dremel.
Main question would be if I should swap for some ZE cams, KL31. I have the KL01 today.
As a point to this, didn't the KLZE curved neck come with KL01 cams? Should it therefore still run with its original cams?
Thanks for all your expert replies
And to this
If I got a hold on some KL31 cams, used. What should I do about the bearings? Buy new ones or claim them with the cams, original worn..
I wouldn't assume right away that you got screwed.
You do know that Curve neck klze's have kl01 cams right and not kl31's Only straight necks have kl31 cams. Looks to me that you never fully researched on buying an engine.
Also when you went to tiger, did you get to pick out what engine you wanted? If so then it would be your own fault and you should of checked for the number son the heads.
I am not trying to stick up for Tiger, But i will say something. those guys are not stupid believe me. They know what a klze is and they know exactly what to look for. I have bought a few engines myself from them and have assisted a few friends with getting ze's from them. as a fact when i wnet to get my staright neck klze the guy actually told me the big differences in klze's between curve neck, straight neck and de, he even told me about the millenia's have 110amp alternators. Even tho I alreday knew all that, it made me alot more comfortable buying from them.
Well my alternator is not 110amps, my pistons are not flat on the top, my heads are stamped KL-1A1 and KL-101 and my inlet on the heads are not square and doesn't match the manifold that was put on. I got a feeling it's not a ZE
But with this setup, should I keep the KL-01 cams because its matched the curved neck manifold or something clever mazda has thought of, or should I spend 350$ on some used KL-31 cams?
Edit: I couldn't pick out my own engine because I don't live near by. But I asked them several times and assured it was a curved neck KLZE before I bought it.
Kveite wrote:Well my alternator is not 110amps, my pistons are not flat on the top, my heads are stamped KL-1A1 and KL-101 and my inlet on the heads are not square and doesn't match the manifold that was put on. I got a feeling it's not a ZE
But with this setup, should I keep the KL-01 cams because its matched the curved neck manifold or something clever mazda has thought of, or should I spend 350$ on some used KL-31 cams?
Edit: I couldn't pick out my own engine because I don't live near by. But I asked them several times and assured it was a curved neck KLZE before I bought it.
then b---- to them and tell them its not a klze. us people on mx3.com can't help you
350 hahahaha i can get 2 sets of kl31 cams for that and still have 50 left over for shipping if someone told you 350 there trying to screw you bad, they dont give you that much more power
08 Infiniti G37s 6speed (The Daily)
Stillen Cold Air Intake, Z1 Plenum Power Mod, Z1 Headers, Z1 Test Pipe, OBX (Ark) Exhaust, Up-Rev Osiris Engine Management (Tuned at Z1), 20x9" 20x10" Str Racing Concave Staggered Rims, SPC Camber kit, Tein H Techs Springs
Mnemonic wrote:there not, it really only shifts the power kl31 gives you more power at lower rpms, the 01s give you more in the upper rpms
where the hell did you hear that?
i tell you something man.Me and fieromx3 both have kl31 cammed motors. and we have both driven kl01 cammed and they are so much slower than our cars. Its noticeable bigtime. mostly in the top end too.
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
Mnemonic wrote:there not, it really only shifts the power kl31 gives you more power at lower rpms, the 01s give you more in the upper rpms
where the hell did you hear that?
i tell you something man.Me and fieromx3 both have kl31 cammed motors. and we have both driven kl01 cammed and they are so much slower than our cars. Its noticeable bigtime. mostly in the top end too.
Agree If all things being equal the -01 Cams should actually faster from a standing start because they produce more torque at a lower RPM. It is only at higher RPM's and speed that the greater HP potential of the -31's. The main reasons a car feels slower between the 2 cam is because the -01's make more torque over a wider rpm range and peak at a much hp lower rpm. The -31's are peakier at a high rpm so power comes on strong at the top end of the power band. Driving does require different driving techniques with the 2 cams. With the 01's you need to shift about 1000rpm lower than with the -31's. If you wind-up the engine past it's peak HP rpm all you are doing is slowing down because the engine is now making less power on the downhill side of the curve. Where as with the -31 you need to wind-up the engine (like with a Honda) to get the maximum power. To say a one car is faster with one set of cams and another car is slower with the other is not necessarily giving a true picture of what to expect. If driven correctly and the cars are 100% mechanically identical, the cars should be pretty equal until the point where the engine rpms are sustained above say 6000rpm
Actually by accident I found that Mixing an matching the -01 and -31 cams actually achieves more power than either set on there own. By using the exhaust cam of one set and the intake cam of the other then adjusting the LDA with off set keys can really take advantage of the exhaust scavanging effect of the out flowing exhaust gasses to creates a natural supercharging effect on the intake side.
Mnemonic wrote:there not, it really only shifts the power kl31 gives you more power at lower rpms, the 01s give you more in the upper rpms
where the hell did you hear that?
i tell you something man.Me and fieromx3 both have kl31 cammed motors. and we have both driven kl01 cammed and they are so much slower than our cars. Its noticeable bigtime. mostly in the top end too.
well i didnt hear it, and i didnt get a chance to drive both cars to see if ones faster but i have to say real dyno's dont lie, where as butt dynos do:
klze straight neck kl31 cams:
Klze Curve kneck kl01 cams:
yes the straight neck had more power 2whp and 1.5tq but hell i could of covered my CAI up with dry ice and made up that difference. Also as you can see both were dynoed at the same place, the setups are similar he has headers where i do not, i have a fidanza flywheel where he does not. And i have ran a kl31 cammed curved klze and well it was an equal race by the time it we decided to let off. So i'll stick to my previous statement, as that all the kl31 are going to do is shift the power band.
Granted these are only 2 Klzes, but considering the similarities, same people worked on the same motors, same company dynoed both cars, same guy running hte machine with the same settings. I trust these dynos more than comparing multiple dynos taken place in different region of the world and by different companies at different times of the year, and on different dynos (mustang, dynopack, dynojet).
08 Infiniti G37s 6speed (The Daily)
Stillen Cold Air Intake, Z1 Plenum Power Mod, Z1 Headers, Z1 Test Pipe, OBX (Ark) Exhaust, Up-Rev Osiris Engine Management (Tuned at Z1), 20x9" 20x10" Str Racing Concave Staggered Rims, SPC Camber kit, Tein H Techs Springs
I chose my kl01 cams for top speed. My friend had kl31 cams in his mx-3 and he also had the mx-3 tranny. He would always take off faster but I would always catch him at the end and then completely smoke him at 120+ mph...
