a/c removal modd.

xboxlivemonkey · Post by **xboxlivemonkey** » June 10th, 2007, 4:40 pm

[quote="Limegreen mx-3"][quote="mazdamx3sohc"]its the same trick for all cars.[/quote]

I did it and my bro too. he when from F2T to FE3 bastard. me form B6-ME to BP-DE.[/quote]\

whats all this lingo explain please

f2t to fe3 and b6-me to bp de

mazdamx3sohc · Post by **mazdamx3sohc** » June 10th, 2007, 4:44 pm

b6-de is your motor, the twin cam 1.6
f2t i believe is the old model for probe and mx-6 turbo 4 cylinder
b6-me is my single cam 1.6 4 cyl.
klze is the 2.5 out of the probe gt
BP-de is the 1.8 twin cam...

but that is a whole other section of mx-3.com we arent allowed to go off topic or it will get moved.

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » June 13th, 2007, 12:32 pm

mazdamx3sohc wrote:i saw your name and knew there was gunna be a lot to read yoda lol. im not understanding what you mean about removing the waterpump thing or whatever, also, my electrical should be fine, i have a brand new battery, had a ground kit (sucked so took it off) and i am not running any extra electrical except the occassional fog lights.

Removing the mechanically driven water pump is exactly that physically removing the waterpump of the engine. The pump impeller has to fight water pressure as it the rpms increase. The thermostat also act like a dam or restrictor in the flow of the coolant so when it is closed it requires more HP to turn the pump in the coolant buliding pressure and resistance to rotation in the cooling system that has no place to go.

You can't run a engine for long without a water pump so I replaced it with a Austrailian made electric coolant pump with a electronic thermostat. Nothing new it has been done for years in motorsport and now many of the car manufactures are doing it to increase the power output of there engines by reducing the mechanical drag and increasing the cooling at all rpms as well since the pump is always turn at the optium speed.

How could the grounding kit suck? I've been making my own grounding "kits" for every car I owned for at least the last 27 years. You may see nothing but generally you see some sort of gain even with a old carburated car with almost no electronics unless the "kit" was made with really cheap wires and connectors.

mazdamx3sohc · Post by **mazdamx3sohc** » June 13th, 2007, 1:03 pm

we are talking about airconditioning, you leave the water pump in.

cyclonekid78 · Post by **cyclonekid78** » June 13th, 2007, 5:39 pm

It all sounds a little ricey to me. If ac works save some money for a real mod (ie exhaust , cold air intake, aaa maybe a turbo like you were saying in another post) Then you will have more horse power and a comfortable ride.

I don't care what anyone says removing the ac on a 88hp engine means you will still have a low horse power engine. Oh ya low idle with ac on can be fixed with the gs alt mod.

mazdamx3sohc · Post by **mazdamx3sohc** » June 13th, 2007, 6:26 pm

cyclone, ac modd is just one of the many to the motor to reach optimum horse power, leave nothing untouched. it has nothing to do with money or not having any. im gunna get a gs alternator, i have a cold air intake as well as a good amount of other mods and i am turboing it, my ac doesnt work all that great it needs to be recharged and the alternator is too weak at the moment for it anyways, im taking it out anyways because the shorter the belt, the faster everything else can spin..such as the water pump...my grounding kit didnt do squat....followed the rules from club protege exactly, i had 24k gold connectors and i think 8 gauge wireing...didnt really do much at all.

cyclonekid78 · Post by **cyclonekid78** » June 13th, 2007, 6:36 pm

BAHHHHHH

mazdamx3sohc · Post by **mazdamx3sohc** » June 13th, 2007, 6:39 pm

bahhh? nice lol...btw just looked at your cardomain page cyclone, as borat would say s'very nice

cyclonekid78 · Post by **cyclonekid78** » June 13th, 2007, 7:13 pm

Thank you.

mazdamx3sohc · Post by **mazdamx3sohc** » June 13th, 2007, 9:00 pm

no prob, but yeah, so i deffinetely wanna know what kinda advantages and disadvantages this will have.

cyclonekid78 · Post by **cyclonekid78** » June 13th, 2007, 9:08 pm

You will be hot in the summer. About 20 bucks for a can of coolant.

mazdamx3sohc · Post by **mazdamx3sohc** » June 13th, 2007, 9:15 pm

why do i need coolant for the AIR conditiong? i dont use a/c anyways...

cyclonekid78 · Post by **cyclonekid78** » June 13th, 2007, 9:35 pm

Ok tell you what. Take your time while you take out the lines with out breaking anything and ill buy all the ac parts except compressor, for 50 bucks. Oh it would be great to have ac on my BPTurboed.

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » June 13th, 2007, 11:19 pm

mazdamx3sohc wrote:we are talking about airconditioning, you leave the water pump in.

I think that was the point of my original message. Someone pointed out that removing the A/C would yield next to no HP gains and I pointed out were you would likely to find greater gains in reducing parisitic losses elsewhere removing other engine driven accessories.

Unless the A/C compressor pully clutch is engaged there is almost no power loss from the engine. The total gains from removing the A/C system including the reduction in parisitic loss to the free wheeling pulley if the A/C clutch is still functioning correctly and calculating the GVW reduction to HP save ratio you would be looking at less than 2-3 HP at the crank or almost next to nothing at the wheels. Were as a mod like deleting the mechanical W/P would equal the most very noticable power gain at the wheels as in the case of the 8V SOHC test mule.

Also as mentions the P/S pump also yields higher power robbing over pressure at high engine RPM's. Removing the P/S pump would yield more gains that the A/C compressor when not engaged and under driving the alternator combined. Although not accessory the stock clutch can account for up to 5hp losses on a SOHC just due to the OE friction is not that aggressive and slippage on a high mileage clutch.

What was not related to the thread is where I mention one of the biggest power robbers is a part of the exhaust the has the P/N# and sized for a B1 or B3 engines but is used with the B6 and BP on mazda and ford car sold in North America

mazdamx3sohc · Post by **mazdamx3sohc** » June 13th, 2007, 11:25 pm

yoda do you ever write in smaller amount? lol im just playing thanks for clearing it up, id be removing the whole thing and using a smaller belt so that would show the most?