I am doing my research on turbo, picked up a few books reading articles. I came across one little calculator http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFmatch.html And I am looking for 20psi @ 9000RPM. It tells me
MAKE TYPE HP Rating TURBINE HSG A/R
Garrett GT30 600 0.8200000000000001
BHP 554.4749042525973 Air Flow per lb per minute 51.03387018740906
Now, is this telling me that that Garrett GT30 turbo is capable of 600HP, and the actual hp rating I would get is 554? I plan on the ZE, upgrade the cams, fuel rails, Not sure if I want to bore it out yet.
Any input is appreciated, good or bad, as I am just trying to understand this lol
Little Help Turbo Problem
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XxantwawnxX
- Regular Member
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: January 8th, 2005, 11:08 pm
- Location: Newportnews VA
Yes.
* * * * * * 92 Mx3 ZET, rear/front swaybars,srd crossmember,HKS SSQV,cold air,ZE with millinia mani and TB and 280cc injectors,INtrax springs with tokiko HP struts, Grounding kit, MotegiTrakLite wheels 17's at 14lbs each, MSnS Running fuel and spark,HEI mod,T3/To4E .60/.63 stage 3 turbine,3rd gen rx7 fuel pump, SSAC Headers/hotpipes ,38 ext tial wastegate, findanza flywheel, SBC TZ clutch/pressureplate,braille11pound battery/ magnum drilled F/R rotors,projectors, CXmotorsports almuminum intercooler.
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XxantwawnxX
- Regular Member
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: January 8th, 2005, 11:08 pm
- Location: Newportnews VA
well ofcourse.Matt wrote:Is it possible to handle after upgrading the internals
* * * * * * 92 Mx3 ZET, rear/front swaybars,srd crossmember,HKS SSQV,cold air,ZE with millinia mani and TB and 280cc injectors,INtrax springs with tokiko HP struts, Grounding kit, MotegiTrakLite wheels 17's at 14lbs each, MSnS Running fuel and spark,HEI mod,T3/To4E .60/.63 stage 3 turbine,3rd gen rx7 fuel pump, SSAC Headers/hotpipes ,38 ext tial wastegate, findanza flywheel, SBC TZ clutch/pressureplate,braille11pound battery/ magnum drilled F/R rotors,projectors, CXmotorsports almuminum intercooler.
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fieromx3
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- Contact:
how much money u have to spend? ive researched ALOT ALOT at one point for the exact same thing ur doing as i was goin thru it all and had all nice internals and s---.. add my new msn and we can talk fieromx3@hotmail.com
93' MX-3 GS-ZE
14.4 @ 96.7
14.5 @ 97.2
14.4 @ 96.7
14.5 @ 97.2
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mx3autozam
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JWMotorsports
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- Location: Weyers Cave, VA
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I have a Garret GT3076R (same as HKS 3037 Pro S) with .82 A/R turbine housing on a 1.6 B6T and have 26psi or what ever I want by 5300rpm at the latest and rev to 8000rpm (rev limit at 8300rpm) on a stock B6T valve train...it has took it for over 10,000 miles of abuse so far.
The GT30 turbo has a butt load of housing, turbine, compressor wheel combinations it can be ran with. They can support any where from 450HP to 600+HP. The one I have is rated at 525HP by Garrett which is the original GT30R and still the second largest in the 30R family. The 600+HP version is a GT3082R (aka GT30/40R). It is a 3076R center section & turbine with a upgraded compressor side to the GT35R's compressor housing, & compressor wheel. For a 2.5L ZE a 30R would probably hit full boost by 3500rpm...if not sooner...with out nitrous, anti lag, or two-step!
Your biggest problem is going to be your drive line. I just twisted a custom center axle like a pretzel on both ends and sheared the outer end in half like someone cut it on a lathe. It took a 2300lb pressure plate and a 3-puck sprung hub disc to hold the rediculous torque out put I'm putting down. The last clutch setup rated a a capacity of 485lb/ft. slipped in 3rd gear at 26psi. The car will run 130mph 1/4's all day long with out launching hard. I twisted the axle up the first hard launch I tried with the LSD & 245/50-R16 street tires deflated to 20psi. I launched at 5000rpm anticipating a hair of wheel spin to save the drive line but it HOOKED and the rest is now in pieces...the drive line that is!
For cams...yes you want larger duration IF your running high rpms (9,000+rpm). The faster the engine revs the less time in milliseconds the valve stays open to ingest air. However it will make the turbo laggier and your bottom end power will suck. On a turbo engine you want LIFT and Valve diameter. With a ZE's displacement you don't need to rev it really high unless your running a GT45R on it. A ZE with a FR3576R (700+HP), Garrett T04Z (750HP) or even a GT4094R (850HP) would be SICK. I'd also run compression as high as 10:1 wich would make a turbo that large streetable with a power band similar to my current setup if not even fatter with a good bit less lag. It is all in the tuning! My car off boost has enough torque to snap your neck back in the seat just by stabing the throttle and can make 3psi of boost before 3000rpm...on a lil 1.6L
My suggestions for you:
-Darton MID Sleeves (Modular Integrated Deck system)
-Wiseco, Ross Forged Pistons
-Pauter Forged Rods w/ ARP bolts
-ARP Head Studs
-ARP Main Studs
-Cometic or Fel-Pro MLS Head Gasket
-Shim the oil pump relief spring until you get 75psi @ 3000ish rpm
-Cam duration no larger than 240ish @ .050" lift (HKS 264 cams are ideal duration) with the largest lift your chosen valve train will allow Keep in mind that an advertised duration is a good bit bigger than the actual duration @ .050" lift. The advertised doesn't tell you as much and shouldn't be relied on.
-Bigger valves if you can afford them.
-Calico coatings on your pistons, ports, chambers, valves, bearings, turbo manifold, turbine housing, & down pipe
-Microtech, AEM, or Accel DFI Gen 7+ for engine management, or even a Haltech
-Barry Grant King Sumo Fuel pump, -10AN lines, -10AN or -12AN fuel rails, matched BG pressure regulator & Accel 1600cc pintle fuel injectors, fuel cell
-Twin or Tripple disc clutch...hit up Derrick Ambrose at Corksport for this
-Kaaz LSD w/ 100% lock up (you can still drive it on the street)
-4340 chrome moly or preferably 300m custom axles (you won't break these if designed and machined correctly)
-4340 or 300m dog box interanals...your stock trans will hold for a little while...depending on the turbo and boost you choose
-Mazdaspeed motor mounts with a solid rear mount
-SRD bushings through out
-Garret GT4094R turbo with .82 A/R turbine
-Tial 50mm BLOV
-Tial 44mm Wastegate with 2.5" dump tube
- 2.5" hot IC pipe to 24x13x4 Corksport Intercooler with 3" upper IC pipe
-75mm BBK Mustang throttle body (98ish year)
-JWMotorsports Custom Intake Manifold
-JWMotorsports Turbo Manifold
-JWMotorsports 3" or 4" down pipe into 3.5" or 4" exhaust
-Griffin Aluminum circle track radiator (I have the chevy one in my car with -16AN SS lines)...I blew my stock radiator apart
-and a few other things here in there for iginition system, gauges, etc...
Yeah...850HP (if the turbine housing allows, you may need 1.06 A/R)....turbo only and still street legal if you put a cat on it.
.... yes I am 
P.S.
Thats good for LOW 9's @ 160+mph 1/4 mile in a 2500lb car
The GT30 turbo has a butt load of housing, turbine, compressor wheel combinations it can be ran with. They can support any where from 450HP to 600+HP. The one I have is rated at 525HP by Garrett which is the original GT30R and still the second largest in the 30R family. The 600+HP version is a GT3082R (aka GT30/40R). It is a 3076R center section & turbine with a upgraded compressor side to the GT35R's compressor housing, & compressor wheel. For a 2.5L ZE a 30R would probably hit full boost by 3500rpm...if not sooner...with out nitrous, anti lag, or two-step!
Your biggest problem is going to be your drive line. I just twisted a custom center axle like a pretzel on both ends and sheared the outer end in half like someone cut it on a lathe. It took a 2300lb pressure plate and a 3-puck sprung hub disc to hold the rediculous torque out put I'm putting down. The last clutch setup rated a a capacity of 485lb/ft. slipped in 3rd gear at 26psi. The car will run 130mph 1/4's all day long with out launching hard. I twisted the axle up the first hard launch I tried with the LSD & 245/50-R16 street tires deflated to 20psi. I launched at 5000rpm anticipating a hair of wheel spin to save the drive line but it HOOKED and the rest is now in pieces...the drive line that is!
For cams...yes you want larger duration IF your running high rpms (9,000+rpm). The faster the engine revs the less time in milliseconds the valve stays open to ingest air. However it will make the turbo laggier and your bottom end power will suck. On a turbo engine you want LIFT and Valve diameter. With a ZE's displacement you don't need to rev it really high unless your running a GT45R on it. A ZE with a FR3576R (700+HP), Garrett T04Z (750HP) or even a GT4094R (850HP) would be SICK. I'd also run compression as high as 10:1 wich would make a turbo that large streetable with a power band similar to my current setup if not even fatter with a good bit less lag. It is all in the tuning! My car off boost has enough torque to snap your neck back in the seat just by stabing the throttle and can make 3psi of boost before 3000rpm...on a lil 1.6L
My suggestions for you:
-Darton MID Sleeves (Modular Integrated Deck system)
-Wiseco, Ross Forged Pistons
-Pauter Forged Rods w/ ARP bolts
-ARP Head Studs
-ARP Main Studs
-Cometic or Fel-Pro MLS Head Gasket
-Shim the oil pump relief spring until you get 75psi @ 3000ish rpm
-Cam duration no larger than 240ish @ .050" lift (HKS 264 cams are ideal duration) with the largest lift your chosen valve train will allow
Keep in mind that an advertised duration is a good bit bigger than the actual duration @ .050" lift. The advertised doesn't tell you as much and shouldn't be relied on.-Bigger valves if you can afford them.
-Calico coatings on your pistons, ports, chambers, valves, bearings, turbo manifold, turbine housing, & down pipe
-Microtech, AEM, or Accel DFI Gen 7+ for engine management, or even a Haltech
-Barry Grant King Sumo Fuel pump, -10AN lines, -10AN or -12AN fuel rails, matched BG pressure regulator & Accel 1600cc pintle fuel injectors, fuel cell
-Twin or Tripple disc clutch...hit up Derrick Ambrose at Corksport for this
-Kaaz LSD w/ 100% lock up (you can still drive it on the street)
-4340 chrome moly or preferably 300m custom axles (you won't break these if designed and machined correctly)
-4340 or 300m dog box interanals...your stock trans will hold for a little while...depending on the turbo and boost you choose
-Mazdaspeed motor mounts with a solid rear mount
-SRD bushings through out
-Garret GT4094R turbo with .82 A/R turbine
-Tial 50mm BLOV
-Tial 44mm Wastegate with 2.5" dump tube
- 2.5" hot IC pipe to 24x13x4 Corksport Intercooler with 3" upper IC pipe
-75mm BBK Mustang throttle body (98ish year)
-JWMotorsports Custom Intake Manifold
-JWMotorsports Turbo Manifold
-JWMotorsports 3" or 4" down pipe into 3.5" or 4" exhaust
-Griffin Aluminum circle track radiator (I have the chevy one in my car with -16AN SS lines)...I blew my stock radiator apart
-and a few other things here in there for iginition system, gauges, etc...
Yeah...850HP (if the turbine housing allows, you may need 1.06 A/R)....turbo only and still street legal if you put a cat on it.
.... yes I am P.S.
Thats good for LOW 9's @ 160+mph 1/4 mile in a 2500lb car
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/354836
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!