not quite sure whats going on

alreadydefective · Post by **alreadydefective** » March 18th, 2007, 8:50 pm

ive started making a habit of searching for this, but im a bit confused when i checked a few things out....

when i get it up and running, which it usually can by turn of the key, or if that doesnt work, i pop started it once, and it ran, it runs really bad. when i push on the acceleration, it bairly gives any.

while its running, it makes a weird clicking noise, which i do believe is coming from the right side of the engine, but when i push in the clutch, it stops the noise until i let out the clutch agian

then i did a spark test, and this is what kinda throws me off, i get spark on every one, but when you pull the plug farther away, its supposed to sputter and die, right? well, it does for plugs 2, 4, and 6. it doesnt die when i completely removed plugs 1, 3 and 5 (only did it because i noticed that)
and it ran worse when i pulled the plugs 2, 4, and 6, but not 1, 3, and 5.

would this just be a disty problem that would require the hei mod (which i plan on doing anyways when i get a better understanding of how to do it), or would it be something wrong with the actual engine itself?

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » March 19th, 2007, 1:12 pm

Here are some common first steps -
- Perform normal maintenance (Plugs, wires, rotor, cap)
- Check for vaccum leaks
- Check timing
- Reset ECU

alreadydefective · Post by **alreadydefective** » March 19th, 2007, 6:03 pm

ariesdude wrote:Here are some common first steps -
- Perform normal maintenance (Plugs, wires, rotor, cap)
- Check for vaccum leaks
- Check timing
- Reset ECU

i replaced the sparkplugs, wires all spark, need to check cap and rotors,
where do i check for vaccum leaks (could be a compression problem), and i know my air intake isnt leaking, ive checked that a few times...
what all do i need to do to check the timing
and ive reset the ecu, didnt help (took negative off the battery for a few mins)

sorry ive got so many questions about it, once i learn though, ill need less help over time, eh

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » March 20th, 2007, 12:25 am

Definitely replace cap & rotor if you dont know when they were last replaced. If you have access to a known good disty then you can clearly rule out the ignition module (maybe buy a disty for testing and return it?). You need a timing light to check timing - most part stores lend those for free. Some people have had issues with crank position sensor. The online manual has detailed instructions for checking various sensors - http://www.mx-3.com/95manual/index.cfm

If the engine troubles happen only when the engine is warm - then it could be O2 and/or coolant temp sensor.

Sorry to give you a long list - but its kinda hard to tele-diagnose in third person.....

alreadydefective · Post by **alreadydefective** » March 20th, 2007, 12:50 am

its fine, its help, and thats what i need, lol, but yeah, ill try and get my hands on a disty for testing, ill check timing, and would it be wise for me to change the timing belt on my own (no experience with it), cause i know someone who would probably help me with that, but yeah, first is to get money, and yeah, replacing parts, woo, what ive been doing so far, lol, thanks agian

alreadydefective · Post by **alreadydefective** » April 2nd, 2007, 1:27 pm

about how much would new headers and piston rings cost? i know that my back 3 pistons aren't firing (1, 3, and 5)

im going to replace those and the o-rings (i think thats right) so i can rule them out, and fix the burning oil problem

how much work would this be, and would i have to pull the engine to do all this? if so, what else might be worth replacing (not sure when anything was replaced) while the engine is out?

PWRD_BY_HKS · Post by **PWRD_BY_HKS** » April 2nd, 2007, 1:48 pm

it would be cheaper to buy another motor...

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » April 2nd, 2007, 2:22 pm

If the spark plugs are not firing in cyls 1,3&5 - it would make sense to find out what the problem is with the distributor or other electrical sensor/system rather than replacing the pistons (which dont have anything to do with firing except they move when the sparkplugs fire and ignite the gas).

Even if it was a piston problem - as HKS said - it would be easier and cheaper to replace the motor or swap a bigger motor than to rebuild your motor.

alreadydefective · Post by **alreadydefective** » April 2nd, 2007, 3:59 pm

well, the main reason i am willing to spend the money to rebuild this engine and get it in nice working order is the fact that ill be more familiar with engines, right now its mostly a learning experience with the k8, and then once i think ive had enough experience repairing the older engine, replacing parts, knowing whats wrong/trouble shooting, then i'll get a klze, ive thought it over and i'd rather know more about how to do things to basic engine fixing incase, when i get the ze, i need to fix it, lol